Big Blue's Transformation

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gary, two items, first, as the truck loads the front springs, the axle will move slightly forward as it goes up so it is not just a straight vertical motion, rear is going to be the same except as the axle goes up it will move slightly back so in both cases the springs flexing will somewhat extend the driveshafts. It won't be much, but it may help with the spline travel.

He's got reversed shackles Bill.

And positive arched springs.

I doubt the axle is ever going forward.

[Gary Lewis]

He's got reversed shackles Bill.

And positive arched springs.

I doubt the axle is ever going forward.

Yes, Jim is right. With the positive-arched springs and the rear shackle the splines move 1 5/8" into the yoke just letting the truck down off the lift. So my worry is that hitting a bump may cause the splines to bottom in the yoke and break the transfer case.

I don't think that is likely as today I determined that the yoke can go rearward 4" from the position on the lift. So, subtracting the 1 5/8" movement that happens just putting the truck on the ground, there's another 2 3/8" of movement available.

Given that, I will measure the vertical movement tomorrow of going from the lift to on the ground. Then see how much farther it is to the bump stops and extrapolate. I know it isn't linear, but that will be a start.

And, I'm going to call Erik at Sky about the shocks and the driveshaft.

[Rusty_S85]

Can't and don't want to do that, Jim.

Anyway, didn't get as much done as I'd hoped. The first thing I did was to measure the splines, and there are 2 1/4" of splines. So at the max droop I can get, which has 1 1/4" of splines out, there's only 1" of splines in the yoke. And, you might ask how I got the max droop. Well, I don't know how much my tool box weighs, but with a full set of 1/2", 3/8", and 1/4" sockets, both shallow and deep, extensions and ratchets in all sizes, full sets of metric and SAE wrenches, both box/open and ratcheting, and lots of screwdrivers I'd say it is heavy. But, it didn't move the driveshaft whatsoever.

Then I moved on to the shocks. I got the shock towers on, which took longer than anticipated due to having to drill four holes in the frame since the F350 towers have four bolts vs the F250's two bolts.

And I got the shocks in. However, I think they are upside down in spite of the writing being right-side up this way.

Next up was the bumper. I'd hoped that I could just put it back on with the brackets still on the bumper, but that wasn't happening as the bumper was 1" too far to the driver's side and didn't want to move. So I pulled the brackets and put them on the truck. Part of the reason it didn't want to move was that the Sky inside bracket limits the bolt length and my longer bolts were hanging up on it. So I put in shorter bolts, but I still had to move the lock washer on the lower bolt to under the head of the bolt instead of under the nut due to the lack of space. This is the passenger's side:

But I got the brackets on. But it turned out that the DS bracket is about 3/8" low, so has to come up. However, I ran out of time so will fix that tomorrow - I hope.

Really wish I could run a serpentine belt setup on my '82. I just hate the thought of what I will have to do to convert from a dealer installed York compressor to the correct compressor for the serpentine setup.

I was looking at aftermarket belt systems as I did install some that runs multiple serpentine belts found some but not sure if I could still bolt my add on A/C crank pulley and maintain the V belt for my AC and have it remain in line. I don't think it would.

I do like the look of the serpentine belt though and I like the grip and lack of vibration it has under load. Might be something I will do later on. Might end up doing it if I end up doing like you did and throw in a F-super duty hydroboost brake booster if my 306 doesn't generate enough vacuum.

[Gary Lewis]

Really wish I could run a serpentine belt setup on my '82. I just hate the thought of what I will have to do to convert from a dealer installed York compressor to the correct compressor for the serpentine setup.

I was looking at aftermarket belt systems as I did install some that runs multiple serpentine belts found some but not sure if I could still bolt my add on A/C crank pulley and maintain the V belt for my AC and have it remain in line. I don't think it would.

I do like the look of the serpentine belt though and I like the grip and lack of vibration it has under load. Might be something I will do later on. Might end up doing it if I end up doing like you did and throw in a F-super duty hydroboost brake booster if my 306 doesn't generate enough vacuum.

I think I'm going to like the polygroove system, a bunch. (Bill has taught me that a serpentine system is one polygroove belt running everything. But the 460's use two such belts, so it is just referred to as "polygroove".)

But you might be able to find the right pulley for your pump and convert it.

[Gary Lewis]

I think I'm going to like the polygroove system, a bunch. (Bill has taught me that a serpentine system is one polygroove belt running everything. But the 460's use two such belts, so it is just referred to as "polygroove".)

But you might be able to find the right pulley for your pump and convert it.

Talked to Sky (Clancy?) and he assured me that my driveshaft will be fine. He said that it isn't going to come out any farther than it does on the lift. That fits with what I found yesterday when I strapped the tool box to the axle and it didn't come down any more.

So, I'm good to go on the front shaft. However, I'm going to pull it and put new u-joints in it now that I know it is the right one. Never done a double-cardan joint before, but I guess I'll learn. And, I need to get a new band for the boot. Anyone have a source for those?

I also asked about the shocks. He said they can go with the boots up, down, or sideways, it doesn't matter. So I pulled them and reinstalled them with the boots up. My thinking was that if they leak they'll leak less that way. And, that will put the boot farther from harm's way.

Then there's the bumper. IT IS ON!

It was a bit more of a battle than I expected, but it is on with new bolts and they are torqued. However, those 5/8" G8's that hold the bracket to the front of the frame take 160 lb-ft and that took all I had. Not turning the torque wrench, but holding backup wrench. There's no way to get a breakover or ratchet on due to the clearance, so you have to back it up with an open-end wrench. And there wasn't anything to put the wrench against, so one hand was holding that and the other pulling the torque wrench. I can guarantee the bumper will not fall of!

But it is level with the truck, centered, and squared with it. I'm happy!

Having said that, there are several 1/4" screws that hold the upper and lower plates to the bumper itself, and they are rusted. You can sorta see them in the pic above around the edge of the bumper on top. Two of those also held spacers that keep the inside edges of the top plates the proper distance from the center bracket. I took those off, or maybe I should say I twisted them off, so I could move the bracket for installing the bumper. And while they were off I polished the rust off the bumper and then used stainless screws to take their place.

You can see the difference in the pics below. So I need to get more of those screws and replace all of those rusted ones.

[85lebaront2]

Talked to Sky (Clancy?) and he assured me that my driveshaft will be fine. He said that it isn't going to come out any farther than it does on the lift. That fits with what I found yesterday when I strapped the tool box to the axle and it didn't come down any more.

So, I'm good to go on the front shaft. However, I'm going to pull it and put new u-joints in it now that I know it is the right one. Never done a double-cardan joint before, but I guess I'll learn. And, I need to get a new band for the boot. Anyone have a source for those?

I also asked about the shocks. He said they can go with the boots up, down, or sideways, it doesn't matter. So I pulled them and reinstalled them with the boots up. My thinking was that if they leak they'll leak less that way. And, that will put the boot farther from harm's way.

Then there's the bumper. IT IS ON!

It was a bit more of a battle than I expected, but it is on with new bolts and they are torqued. However, those 5/8" G8's that hold the bracket to the front of the frame take 160 lb-ft and that took all I had. Not turning the torque wrench, but holding backup wrench. There's no way to get a breakover or ratchet on due to the clearance, so you have to back it up with an open-end wrench. And there wasn't anything to put the wrench against, so one hand was holding that and the other pulling the torque wrench. I can guarantee the bumper will not fall of!

But it is level with the truck, centered, and squared with it. I'm happy!

Having said that, there are several 1/4" screws that hold the upper and lower plates to the bumper itself, and they are rusted. You can sorta see them in the pic above around the edge of the bumper on top. Two of those also held spacers that keep the inside edges of the top plates the proper distance from the center bracket. I took those off, or maybe I should say I twisted them off, so I could move the bracket for installing the bumper. And while they were off I polished the rust off the bumper and then used stainless screws to take their place.

You can see the difference in the pics below. So I need to get more of those screws and replace all of those rusted ones.

Have fun with the U-joint, at least it is a decent size one, not like the center joint on a 1963 Jetfire.

 

[grumpin]

Have fun with the U-joint, at least it is a decent size one, not like the center joint on a 1963 Jetfire.

I think I may have mentioned this before. A mechanic I know told me to get an exchange driveshaft on my Bronco. The rear shaft is short. If he didn’t want to do them, I didn’t! I’m just not set up to do u joints.

There wasn’t an exchange anywhere in the country at that time, so I called a local driveline shop. They did all the u joints on that rear shaft for $110.00. Even painted it. The exchange driveshafts were around $300.00.

I decided they are going to do all my u joints!

Edit: There is a double cardan joint in that short shaft.

[Bruce moose4x4]

Have fun with the U-joint, at least it is a decent size one, not like the center joint on a 1963 Jetfire.

Anytime on the Masta performance.

Look at these for the boot clamp.

Dorman 614-067 614-068 614-069 614-060

Motormite 03637 03644

[Gary Lewis]

I think I may have mentioned this before. A mechanic I know told me to get an exchange driveshaft on my Bronco. The rear shaft is short. If he didn’t want to do them, I didn’t! I’m just not set up to do u joints.

There wasn’t an exchange anywhere in the country at that time, so I called a local driveline shop. They did all the u joints on that rear shaft for $110.00. Even painted it. The exchange driveshafts were around $300.00.

I decided they are going to do all my u joints!

Edit: There is a double cardan joint in that short shaft.

Bill - Got really good with the center carrier bearing/u-joint combo on my '58 w/a 348. Could lay that carrier bearing over any time I wanted to.

Dane - I'll check on having this one rebuilt, but the joints themselves are from $16 to $25 depending on which ones I buy. So for three of them, two in the double cardan, I'm only out $50 to $75. However, there are other parts and seals in that joint, and I don't see a kit available from Rock Auto for that. But Driveshafts Direct advertises double cardan kits for Jeeps, so I'll call them tomorrow to see if they have one for this.

Bruce - Thanks for the band info. And, for the Masta Performance link, again. Not sure I'll go with them as I'd like to buy a flexible dip stick. Called Marty at Lokar today asking if he knows who has the 24" one in stock, but he wasn't in. Maybe he'll call tomorrow.

[Nothing Special]

Bill - Got really good with the center carrier bearing/u-joint combo on my '58 w/a 348. Could lay that carrier bearing over any time I wanted to.

Dane - I'll check on having this one rebuilt, but the joints themselves are from $16 to $25 depending on which ones I buy. So for three of them, two in the double cardan, I'm only out $50 to $75. However, there are other parts and seals in that joint, and I don't see a kit available from Rock Auto for that. But Driveshafts Direct advertises double cardan kits for Jeeps, so I'll call them tomorrow to see if they have one for this.

Bruce - Thanks for the band info. And, for the Masta Performance link, again. Not sure I'll go with them as I'd like to buy a flexible dip stick. Called Marty at Lokar today asking if he knows who has the 24" one in stock, but he wasn't in. Maybe he'll call tomorrow.

I replaced a double-cardan joint once, quite awhile ago. I don't remember any specifics, but I remember that it wasn't a lot of fun, but not bad enough to feel like I should've taken it in.