Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

I really like those stainless steel standoffs.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n56565/PS_Fender_To_Cab_%234_Ground.jpg

So your ground strap (not the fender one) goes from one end of the hood hinge to the other? Maybe I missed it but is that factory? I am thinking I've only ever seen them from the cab sheet metal to the hood sheet metal.

Thanks, Scott.

Yes, that hood hinge has a strap from one side of it to the other. Probably for the hood light and/or radio interference suppression, using the hood to shield the antenna. I've not seen that before, but these are fairly new hinges, and I don't know the source.

As for the starter switch on the clutch, the starter comes in with a fuse in the connector, but not with the connector to the switch - if the arm of the switch is attached to the clutch pedal. However, removing the arm from the pedal and pulling farther engages the starter, or I should say the starter's relay as I'm not spinning the starter.

I still have a spare pedal assembly here and a spare switch, so I'm checking to see what might be going on.

[grumpin]

Thanks, Scott.

Yes, that hood hinge has a strap from one side of it to the other. Probably for the hood light and/or radio interference suppression, using the hood to shield the antenna. I've not seen that before, but these are fairly new hinges, and I don't know the source.

As for the starter switch on the clutch, the starter comes in with a fuse in the connector, but not with the connector to the switch - if the arm of the switch is attached to the clutch pedal. However, removing the arm from the pedal and pulling farther engages the starter, or I should say the starter's relay as I'm not spinning the starter.

I still have a spare pedal assembly here and a spare switch, so I'm checking to see what might be going on.

I don’t think you can go OTT on grounds!

[Dorsai]

Then turned to the ignition module spacer. The idea of making 3/4" diameter pieces 1 1/4" long using a hole saw on a 1 1/4" thick block of aluminum didn't pan out. So I went back to the stainless. And with a lot of patience I finally got the next two drilled and tapped 1/4-20 on both ends.

This is a bit late given that you've already made your spacers, but if you think you'll ever do it again you might try some 'churro' from the robotics world. Our kids use it for spacers, standoffs, and the like, and the first time I saw it I immediately thought of your ignition module spacers:

Churro - AndyMark

[Gary Lewis]

I don’t think you can go OTT on grounds!

Dane - You are absolutely correct. And, to prove that the grounds are working, prior to installing those grounds the dome light dimmed when I brought on the blower, honked the horn, etc. No more!

And, the problem is solved on the clutch switch. In the pic below the switch on top is used and the one on the bottom is new. Note where the "stop" on the right end of the plastic arm is on the two. That stop is what causes the switch to close. On the new one the stop is a long way from the end of the arm where on the used one it is much closer to the end.

When you put the new one on a truck and depress the clutch pedal the stop slides on the arm and automatically adjusts for the throw of the pedal. And the serrations in the arm prevent it from moving farther. But if you put a used switch on it may not be adjusted for the throw of the pedal.

I put a used one on Big Blue, for some reason, and it wasn't hitting the switch. So I slid it down the arm and pressed the pedal down. Zipppppppppp! And now the starter comes in - but only with the pedal down.

[Gary Lewis]

Then turned to the ignition module spacer. The idea of making 3/4" diameter pieces 1 1/4" long using a hole saw on a 1 1/4" thick block of aluminum didn't pan out. So I went back to the stainless. And with a lot of patience I finally got the next two drilled and tapped 1/4-20 on both ends.

This is a bit late given that you've already made your spacers, but if you think you'll ever do it again you might try some 'churro' from the robotics world. Our kids use it for spacers, standoffs, and the like, and the first time I saw it I immediately thought of your ignition module spacers:

Churro - AndyMark

It's easy to work, you can put a 1/2" wrench to it, and best of all it comes in a range of stylish colors.

Incidentally, the ones you gave me (along with the attached ignition module) are still serving honorably - thank you again!

That's cool, Matthew! Wish I'd known that. Those would have been perfect. I could have had red!

My nephew is one of the guys that are RobotZone, and I'm sure they have the same stuff. I'll have to ask him. From what I understand they are one of the big suppliers to folks doing robotics.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Dane - You are absolutely correct. And, to prove that the grounds are working, prior to installing those grounds the dome light dimmed when I brought on the blower, honked the horn, etc. No more!

And, the problem is solved on the clutch switch. In the pic below the switch on top is used and the one on the bottom is new. Note where the "stop" on the right end of the plastic arm is on the two. That stop is what causes the switch to close. On the new one the stop is a long way from the end of the arm where on the used one it is much closer to the end.

When you put the new one on a truck and depress the clutch pedal the stop slides on the arm and automatically adjusts for the throw of the pedal. And the serrations in the arm prevent it from moving farther. But if you put a used switch on it may not be adjusted for the throw of the pedal.

I put a used one on Big Blue, for some reason, and it wasn't hitting the switch. So I slid it down the arm and pressed the pedal down. Zipppppppppp! And now the starter comes in - but only with the pedal down.

Well, I'm glad that didn't turn into an eight page microanalysis.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Then turned to the ignition module spacer. The idea of making 3/4" diameter pieces 1 1/4" long using a hole saw on a 1 1/4" thick block of aluminum didn't pan out. So I went back to the stainless. And with a lot of patience I finally got the next two drilled and tapped 1/4-20 on both ends.

This is a bit late given that you've already made your spacers, but if you think you'll ever do it again you might try some 'churro' from the robotics world. Our kids use it for spacers, standoffs, and the like, and the first time I saw it I immediately thought of your ignition module spacers:

Churro - AndyMark

It's easy to work, you can put a 1/2" wrench to it, and best of all it comes in a range of stylish colors.

Incidentally, the ones you gave me (along with the attached ignition module) are still serving honorably - thank you again!

You know, there are these funny little threaded hex bushings called coupling nuts.

You can get then at most any hardware store.

They're cheap as chips, and are commonly found #6 through 3/4 NC.

[kramttocs]

You know, there are these funny little threaded hex bushings called coupling nuts.

You can get then at most any hardware store.

They're cheap as chips, and are commonly found #6 through 3/4 NC.

I am using a number of these in varying lengths as standoffs for the fender platforms.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/392093482280

 

[Gary Lewis]

You know, there are these funny little threaded hex bushings called coupling nuts.

You can get then at most any hardware store.

They're cheap as chips, and are commonly found #6 through 3/4 NC.

Yes, as Scott knows, I used coupling nuts originally. But I didn't have any and, with the virus, didn't want to go to the hardware store. Nor did I want to wait for them to be shipped to me. So I thought I'd make some. But I didn't bargain for how hard to tap that stainless is. It cut and turned nicely, but my taps didn't like it.

Anyway, I got there w/o having to go anywhere nor wait. But for a fancy look some of those aluminum Churros would be cool. And, good heat conduction as well. Plus, easily tapped.

[kramttocs]

Yes, as Scott knows, I used coupling nuts originally. But I didn't have any and, with the virus, didn't want to go to the hardware store. Nor did I want to wait for them to be shipped to me. So I thought I'd make some. But I didn't bargain for how hard to tap that stainless is. It cut and turned nicely, but my taps didn't like it.

Anyway, I got there w/o having to go anywhere nor wait. But for a fancy look some of those aluminum Churros would be cool. And, good heat conduction as well. Plus, easily tapped.

And something to be said for being able to make them yourself. I really like the smooth cylinder look.