Big Blue's Transformation

[ArdWrknTrk]

Hopefully y'all are following the discussion re fuses vs fuse links in the other thread. Most of my day was spent on that, but I did try re-clocking the alternator - and it didn't work. Does anyone have any tricks for getting the windings out? They don't want to budge, and if I can't get them out I'll just leave the clocking alone.

However, I did discover that one of the brushes is rather worn, so I want to replace them. Anyone know a good place from which to get them?

Clocking is just a matter of cracking the case halves far enough to clear the locating nubs.

You don't want to split it in half or anything like that.

The shaft shouldn't be too tight in the bearing to bind up like that.

[Gary Lewis]

Clocking is just a matter of cracking the case halves far enough to clear the locating nubs.

You don't want to split it in half or anything like that.

The shaft shouldn't be too tight in the bearing to bind up like that.

I've been using this how-to. I can't get the windings out of the front to turn them. And since the rear case has to go down in alignment with the windings, they have to come out of the front half and then turn. Right?

[ArdWrknTrk]

I've been using this how-to. I can't get the windings out of the front to turn them. And since the rear case has to go down in alignment with the windings, they have to come out of the front half and then turn. Right?

Note post #2.

It's no lie.

I hold the case and give the shaft a whack with a rawhide mallet.

Spin the rear around to where you want it and reinsert the screws.

Not going there on #4, 6, 8, 10 whatever... we all know.

[Gary Lewis]

Note post #2.

It's no lie.

I hold the case and give the shaft a whack with a rawhide mallet.

Spin the rear around to where you want it and reinsert the screws.

Not going there on #4, 6, 8, 10 whatever... we all know.

Hadn't read the posts. Interesting.

As for whacking with a mallet, I'll try that. The stator hasn't wanted to come out, but I haven't whacked the shaft.

[Gary Lewis]

Hadn't read the posts. Interesting.

As for whacking with a mallet, I'll try that. The stator hasn't wanted to come out, but I haven't whacked the shaft.

Ok, I'm officially "stuck" on the re-clocking of the alternator. (Pun intenteded. Or, maybe 2/3 of a pun?

)

Whacking with a mallet didn't work. Heating it to 150F in the oven and then whacking and prying didn't work.

The issue is that the windings are stuck in the front case half. And there's no good way I can see to pry them out with the diode bridge installed. If you pry where the top/vertical yellow arrow is, which is pretty much where they are stuck, what you are doing is moving the black heat sink (red arrow) back. And since it carries the diode bridge you are then using the soldered joints (4 yellow horizontal arrows) and the copper wires to pull the windings out. I've done that all I dare do for fear of breaking the solder joints.

The only way I can see to do it is to un-solder the bridge, which will allow the heat sink to come out as it is fairly loose. That will then give me access to the windings and I might be able to tap & pull to get them out.

Help!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ok, I'm officially "stuck" on the re-clocking of the alternator. (Pun intenteded. Or, maybe 2/3 of a pun?

)

Whacking with a mallet didn't work. Heating it to 150F in the oven and then whacking and prying didn't work.

The issue is that the windings are stuck in the front case half. And there's no good way I can see to pry them out with the diode bridge installed. If you pry where the top/vertical yellow arrow is, which is pretty much where they are stuck, what you are doing is moving the black heat sink (red arrow) back. And since it carries the diode bridge you are then using the soldered joints (4 yellow horizontal arrows) and the copper wires to pull the windings out. I've done that all I dare do for fear of breaking the solder joints.

The only way I can see to do it is to un-solder the bridge, which will allow the heat sink to come out as it is fairly loose. That will then give me access to the windings and I might be able to tap & pull to get them out.

Help!

Sounds like the shaft is locked in the front bearing.

I wouldn't be afraid to smack it good.

What have you got to lose?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ok, I'm officially "stuck" on the re-clocking of the alternator. (Pun intenteded. Or, maybe 2/3 of a pun?

)

Whacking with a mallet didn't work. Heating it to 150F in the oven and then whacking and prying didn't work.

The issue is that the windings are stuck in the front case half. And there's no good way I can see to pry them out with the diode bridge installed. If you pry where the top/vertical yellow arrow is, which is pretty much where they are stuck, what you are doing is moving the black heat sink (red arrow) back. And since it carries the diode bridge you are then using the soldered joints (4 yellow horizontal arrows) and the copper wires to pull the windings out. I've done that all I dare do for fear of breaking the solder joints.

The only way I can see to do it is to un-solder the bridge, which will allow the heat sink to come out as it is fairly loose. That will then give me access to the windings and I might be able to tap & pull to get them out.

Help!

I apologise.

I didn't think that alternator was corroded inside.

[Gary Lewis]

I apologise.

I didn't think that alternator was corroded inside.

Jim - NO! There is nothing wrong with the alternator. Or, at least nothing that a new set of $6 brushes won't fix.

As I've stepped back and thought about it, I have no business re-clocking this thing. I say that because of my intent to hand off something that can be easily maintained. And apparently Ford thought that these trucks ought to have their alternators clocked the way this one is. In fact, Brandon/Bruno2 said his son's is clocked the same way.

So, if I re-clock this one and cut the harness down to match then it won't be long enough with any other clocking. Given that, I'm going to put the alternator back together just the way it is - but with new brushes, which should come in from Rock in a couple of days.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - NO! There is nothing wrong with the alternator. Or, at least nothing that a new set of $6 brushes won't fix.

As I've stepped back and thought about it, I have no business re-clocking this thing. I say that because of my intent to hand off something that can be easily maintained. And apparently Ford thought that these trucks ought to have their alternators clocked the way this one is. In fact, Brandon/Bruno2 said his son's is clocked the same way.

So, if I re-clock this one and cut the harness down to match then it won't be long enough with any other clocking. Given that, I'm going to put the alternator back together just the way it is - but with new brushes, which should come in from Rock in a couple of days.

Honestly, I started it up and saw 14.6V.

I never thought to open it up, or i would have known.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Honestly, I started it up and saw 14.6V.

I never thought to open it up, or i would have known.

Trust me, I'm a happy camper. I got a good deal on a LOT of parts.

As for what I did today, I spent some time trying to take the PDB apart. If you haven't played with one, there are red pieces of plastic that retain the connectors. So, you take out the relays, fuses, and diodes and pull the red pieces. Then you can pull the individual connectors by releasing their tabs. And, since I'm not going to use all of them I want to pull some of them out.

But, I've not figured out how to get all of the retainers out. There are some tricks somewhere that I've not discovered. So if anyone knows, please educate me. But once I figure it out I'll post a video or something.