Big Blue's Transformation

[kramttocs]

Gary, the small (micro) relays are rated 20 amps on the NC contacts and 30 amps on the NO contacts, The Bosch cube relays are rated 30 amps on both sets of contacts. If you are only using them to turn things on, then the micro relays will work fine. I have done a ton of research on these for my Chrysler.

Yeah, I don't know if these are interchangeable with that box but the ones I am using are:

(8 of them) ISO 280 Micro Relay with Resistor

NO Amp: 35A

NC Amp: 20A

Volt Rating: 12V

I decided I didn't feel comfortable running the starter through one so I am keeping the fender mount. Plus, I didn't want to have to add complication in the wiring of the fuel pump 'on start' circuit.

[Gary Lewis]

Yeah, I don't know if these are interchangeable with that box but the ones I am using are:

(8 of them) ISO 280 Micro Relay with Resistor

NO Amp: 35A

NC Amp: 20A

Volt Rating: 12V

I decided I didn't feel comfortable running the starter through one so I am keeping the fender mount. Plus, I didn't want to have to add complication in the wiring of the fuel pump 'on start' circuit.

Thanks, guys.

I realized during the night (didn't sleep well) that the choke runs off of the fuel pump relay wiring, meaning that it comes on with oil pressure. So I only need 5 relays, not six.

And, the headlights are 65 watts on high and 35 watts on low, which means that two of them on high will pull right at 10 amps (2 x 65 = 130 watts, and 130/13 volts = 10 amps). So the micro relays will work fine for them.

That means I can use one Bosch for the starter and another for the blower, and still have a Bosch left over in either of the PDBs I have. And on the micro relays I'll use two for the headlights and one for the key-on function to control the volt meter.

And, also during the night, I realized that there are plenty of the large fuses and I might as well replace the fuse links. That will clean things up a lot by not having them running to the Megafuse lug.

[kramttocs]

Thanks, guys.

I realized during the night (didn't sleep well) that the choke runs off of the fuel pump relay wiring, meaning that it comes on with oil pressure. So I only need 5 relays, not six.

And, the headlights are 65 watts on high and 35 watts on low, which means that two of them on high will pull right at 10 amps (2 x 65 = 130 watts, and 130/13 volts = 10 amps). So the micro relays will work fine for them.

That means I can use one Bosch for the starter and another for the blower, and still have a Bosch left over in either of the PDBs I have. And on the micro relays I'll use two for the headlights and one for the key-on function to control the volt meter.

And, also during the night, I realized that there are plenty of the large fuses and I might as well replace the fuse links. That will clean things up a lot by not having them running to the Megafuse lug.

Right, the starter is the only factory function I have come across yet that the micros won't work for.

You likely mentioned it but will the PDB itself handle the amps of the larger Bosch relay? I don't know anything about the PDB's but just know with the unit I am using it has per terminal and per connector maxes.

[Gary Lewis]

Right, the starter is the only factory function I have come across yet that the micros won't work for.

You likely mentioned it but will the PDB itself handle the amps of the larger Bosch relay? I don't know anything about the PDB's but just know with the unit I am using it has per terminal and per connector maxes.

Yes, the PDBs can easily handle the current. They have large busses to each relay, and the larger relays have large gauge wire coming from the relays.

I’ll take some pics of that later. Out and about now

[85lebaront2]

Yes, the PDBs can easily handle the current. They have large busses to each relay, and the larger relays have large gauge wire coming from the relays.

I’ll take some pics of that later. Out and about now

My Chrysler PDB, from a Dodge Stratus or Chrysler Sebring has a gaggle of 40 amp Maxi Fuses.

It isn't fully populated in this picture, the box was apparently used in a number of vehicles as I have two, one from a 1996 Stratus and one from a 2000 Sebring convertible. They are physically the same but the relay strip on the right side has different functions, many are the same though. The interior fuse box (junction box to Chrysler) has a load of smaller fuses, individual headlight low and high beam, left and right for one example.

The four large relays are for low and high speed fans, ASD (automatic shut down) which powers the fuel pump, coil and injectors and starter.

The stud on top was due to the battery location on the Stratus/Sebring, under the LF fender, forward of the wheel so + and - studs were provided, it is an M10 X 1.5 or slightly bigger than a 3/8" bolt. I have my + battery cable (real short) alternator fusible link and starter main cable on it with the factory red plastic cover.

[Gary Lewis]

My Chrysler PDB, from a Dodge Stratus or Chrysler Sebring has a gaggle of 40 amp Maxi Fuses.

It isn't fully populated in this picture, the box was apparently used in a number of vehicles as I have two, one from a 1996 Stratus and one from a 2000 Sebring convertible. They are physically the same but the relay strip on the right side has different functions, many are the same though. The interior fuse box (junction box to Chrysler) has a load of smaller fuses, individual headlight low and high beam, left and right for one example.

The four large relays are for low and high speed fans, ASD (automatic shut down) which powers the fuel pump, coil and injectors and starter.

The stud on top was due to the battery location on the Stratus/Sebring, under the LF fender, forward of the wheel so + and - studs were provided, it is an M10 X 1.5 or slightly bigger than a 3/8" bolt. I have my + battery cable (real short) alternator fusible link and starter main cable on it with the factory red plastic cover.

First, the L&L headers are at Jet-Hot and I've approved the work. The guestimated date for us to pick them up is April 6th.

As for the PDB's, thanks, Bill. The Ford boxes are similar.

The one I think I'll use is from a mid-90's F-Series truck. Here's what it looks like in position with its bracket/stand on it. More on it in just a bit, but note where the connections are for the 3G that I got from Jim - thanks again, Jim. Brandon said his son's 3G is clocked the same way, and it looks to us like it should be re-clocked to put the connections basically on top. What do y'all think?

 

[Frank Wyatt]

First, the L&L headers are at Jet-Hot and I've approved the work. The guestimated date for us to pick them up is April 6th.

As for the PDB's, thanks, Bill. The Ford boxes are similar.

The one I think I'll use is from a mid-90's F-Series truck. Here's what it looks like in position with its bracket/stand on it. More on it in just a bit, but note where the connections are for the 3G that I got from Jim - thanks again, Jim. Brandon said his son's 3G is clocked the same way, and it looks to us like it should be re-clocked to put the connections basically on top. What do y'all think?

Yes Gary, I agree that the alternator needs to be re-clocked. The PDC looks good where it is, right close to the battery. Nice work Gary. I like that stand-off under the PDC.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes Gary, I agree that the alternator needs to be re-clocked. The PDC looks good where it is, right close to the battery. Nice work Gary. I like that stand-off under the PDC.

Thanks, Frank. I, too, like the position as it gives easy access to both the battery and the alternator, as well as the wiring into the cab. And the stand came with the PDB from the mid-90's F-Series truck. If fits very nicely there, and about all I need to do is to bend up the two tabs on the front so they don't dig into the fender liner, and then drill holes through the bracket to match those in liner. Then I'll bolt it in using large fender washers.

Here's how it'll be wired, although it has a choke relay and that's not needed. And it has only two fuses for fuselink replacement. Plus, it doesn't show Fuselink T, the one that goes to the fuel pump with a pink wire w/a black hashn from the starter relay. But I'll fix all three of those issues.

Here's a shot of the PDB from the bottom, showing the bottom cover and the stand, both of which snap into the PDB.

And to Scott's question, here's a shot that shows the bus. Note the Megafuse connects to it, so the battery and starter will connect to the lug on the top in the pic, which will be the one on the left or front when looking at the top pic. And the alternator will connect to the rear stud.

Also note the yellow wire that crosses over the shield I'm prying out of the way so you can see the bus. That wire, and a few others like them, are the power to the relays. All six relay positions are pre-wired and it just takes connecting to their trigger and output circuits to use them.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks, Frank. I, too, like the position as it gives easy access to both the battery and the alternator, as well as the wiring into the cab. And the stand came with the PDB from the mid-90's F-Series truck. If fits very nicely there, and about all I need to do is to bend up the two tabs on the front so they don't dig into the fender liner, and then drill holes through the bracket to match those in liner. Then I'll bolt it in using large fender washers.

Here's how it'll be wired, although it has a choke relay and that's not needed. And it has only two fuses for fuselink replacement. Plus, it doesn't show Fuselink T, the one that goes to the fuel pump with a pink wire w/a black hashn from the starter relay. But I'll fix all three of those issues.

Here's a shot of the PDB from the bottom, showing the bottom cover and the stand, both of which snap into the PDB.

And to Scott's question, here's a shot that shows the bus. Note the Megafuse connects to it, so the battery and starter will connect to the lug on the top in the pic, which will be the one on the left or front when looking at the top pic. And the alternator will connect to the rear stud.

Also note the yellow wire that crosses over the shield I'm prying out of the way so you can see the bus. That wire, and a few others like them, are the power to the relays. All six relay positions are pre-wired and it just takes connecting to their trigger and output circuits to use them.

Made some good progress today. First, I found the TurboCAD file! It was lost in the new-computer setup, but I found it, and then spent a lot of time editing it today.

I realized that the circuit from the starter relay that gives the fuel pump full voltage in Start has a fuse link in it. But I'm replacing fuse links with fuses. However, all the fuses in the PDB are powered off the bus, so I had to use another relay to power that circuit. Unfortunately I forgot to put a label on Relay 2, but that's the relay.

And I'd forgotten to include the diode to protect from the EMF when the starter's relay discharges, so I added it.

And, I have a bit more cleanup to do, but here 'tis:

Then I started thinking about how I'm going to document the wiring for posterity. Here's the page from the EVTM that all of these components are shown on:

And here's that page with all the things I'm replacing or changing erased. My hope is that I can figure out how to drop the schematic for the PDB onto this page and show it hooked up. Thoughts?

[Gary Lewis]

Made some good progress today. First, I found the TurboCAD file! It was lost in the new-computer setup, but I found it, and then spent a lot of time editing it today.

I realized that the circuit from the starter relay that gives the fuel pump full voltage in Start has a fuse link in it. But I'm replacing fuse links with fuses. However, all the fuses in the PDB are powered off the bus, so I had to use another relay to power that circuit. Unfortunately I forgot to put a label on Relay 2, but that's the relay.

And I'd forgotten to include the diode to protect from the EMF when the starter's relay discharges, so I added it.

And, I have a bit more cleanup to do, but here 'tis:

Then I started thinking about how I'm going to document the wiring for posterity. Here's the page from the EVTM that all of these components are shown on:

And here's that page with all the things I'm replacing or changing erased. My hope is that I can figure out how to drop the schematic for the PDB onto this page and show it hooked up. Thoughts?

Hopefully y'all are following the discussion re fuses vs fuse links in the other thread. Most of my day was spent on that, but I did try re-clocking the alternator - and it didn't work. Does anyone have any tricks for getting the windings out? They don't want to budge, and if I can't get them out I'll just leave the clocking alone.

However, I did discover that one of the brushes is rather worn, so I want to replace them. Anyone know a good place from which to get them?