Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

If you're snapping pictures, can you snap one of the section where the auto shift lever would come through the bottom of the column? I'm curious to see what it looks like since I want to delete the shift tube from my auto column and just find a way to secure the shift collar by the ignition tumblr. Removing the shift tube would leave a giant opening for dust and moisture to get to the lower bearing so I'll need to cover that up.

I can take a pic of another column, if that's what you mean. Oh, maybe take a pic of an automatic column's lower bearing retainer and then the same pic of a lower bearing retainer for a manual tranny's column. Is that what you mean?

[kramttocs]

If you're snapping pictures, can you snap one of the section where the auto shift lever would come through the bottom of the column? I'm curious to see what it looks like since I want to delete the shift tube from my auto column and just find a way to secure the shift collar by the ignition tumblr. Removing the shift tube would leave a giant opening for dust and moisture to get to the lower bearing so I'll need to cover that up.

Shaun - Check out the steering doc page > instructions and see if my photos will show what you are looking for. You could leave everything there but just cut off the perpendicular arm at the bottom.

Gary - this is intriguing. While I was in the shop grabbing my spare lower bearing from an auto, I checked out the one in my gpas 85 manual. It is the same as my auto where you can't see the red ring.

My photos aren't great but I tried flipping it around and the tabs aren't long enough to go to the top of the bearing. Instead they land about where the inside oring is.

By not having the tabs lock in the ring part is deformed and doesn't sit flat.

[kramttocs]

If you're snapping pictures, can you snap one of the section where the auto shift lever would come through the bottom of the column? I'm curious to see what it looks like since I want to delete the shift tube from my auto column and just find a way to secure the shift collar by the ignition tumblr. Removing the shift tube would leave a giant opening for dust and moisture to get to the lower bearing so I'll need to cover that up.

Shaun- this thread may help also

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Steering-column-disassembly-td41757i20.html#a44008

[Gary Lewis]

Shaun - Check out the steering doc page > instructions and see if my photos will show what you are looking for. You could leave everything there but just cut off the perpendicular arm at the bottom.

Gary - this is intriguing. While I was in the shop grabbing my spare lower bearing from an auto, I checked out the one in my gpas 85 manual. It is the same as my auto where you can't see the red ring.

My photos aren't great but I tried flipping it around and the tabs aren't long enough to go to the top of the bearing. Instead they land about where the inside oring is.

By not having the tabs lock in the ring part is deformed and doesn't sit flat.

Scott - I'll pull the three 1/4" headed screws tomorrow and check it out. But I could have sworn that the legs snapped in on mine. Better safe than sorry.

Thanks.

[salans7]

I can take a pic of another column, if that's what you mean. Oh, maybe take a pic of an automatic column's lower bearing retainer and then the same pic of a lower bearing retainer for a manual tranny's column. Is that what you mean?

I just need to see the bottom of the housing where the bearing retainer goes on a manual column. I have my auto column fully assembled so no need for auto column pics. I think I can get by with just a small sheet steel patch and some sealer, but I want to be sure that's sufficient. Scott's pics lead me to believe so, but his pictures don't seem to show the completed column in that area.

[kramttocs]

Scott - I'll pull the three 1/4" headed screws tomorrow and check it out. But I could have sworn that the legs snapped in on mine. Better safe than sorry.

Thanks.

Looking at your first photo in the steering post, it looks flat and flush to me. Interested in what you find.

[Gary Lewis]

Looking at your first photo in the steering post, it looks flat and flush to me. Interested in what you find.

Ok, here's what I found. Pics to follow. Measurements on my two rings and bearing retainers, with #1 being the ones I'm using. And I'm going to run it this way.

Red Ring OD:

#1: 1.175-1.177"

#2: 1.182-1.190"

Bearing Retainer ID:

#1: 1.167-1.170"

#2: 1.160-1.162"

Obviously #1 ring in #1 retainer is a tight fit, but it works nicely - as you'll see. #2 ring in #1 retainer fits, but one edge creeps up slightly. In either case, they effectively seal the entrance of crud into the bearing, and when you turn things by hand there's a slight drag. But I'm sure the drag will never be felt when you are turning the wheel.

Here's an overall view of how the ring fits in the retainer:

And here's the other side, showing it locked in nicely. Scott - yours didn't lock in as it wasn't down in the bearing retainer. If you think about it, if it can lock in one way it'll lock in the other.

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, here's what I found. Pics to follow. Measurements on my two rings and bearing retainers, with #1 being the ones I'm using. And I'm going to run it this way.

Red Ring OD:

#1: 1.175-1.177"

#2: 1.182-1.190"

Bearing Retainer ID:

#1: 1.167-1.170"

#2: 1.160-1.162"

Obviously #1 ring in #1 retainer is a tight fit, but it works nicely - as you'll see. #2 ring in #1 retainer fits, but one edge creeps up slightly. In either case, they effectively seal the entrance of crud into the bearing, and when you turn things by hand there's a slight drag. But I'm sure the drag will never be felt when you are turning the wheel.

Here's an overall view of how the ring fits in the retainer:

And here's the other side, showing it locked in nicely. Scott - yours didn't lock in as it wasn't down in the bearing retainer. If you think about it, if it can lock in one way it'll lock in the other.

Shaun - What other pics or measurements do you need?

[kramttocs]

Scott - yours didn't lock in as it wasn't down in the bearing retainer. If you think about it, if it can lock in one way it'll lock in the other.

Yeah, if yours fits down in the retainer so it's up against the bearing and can latch, I'd run it that way. I cleaned both surfaces of mine but it won't fit.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Scott - yours didn't lock in as it wasn't down in the bearing retainer. If you think about it, if it can lock in one way it'll lock in the other.

Yeah, if yours fits down in the retainer so it's up against the bearing and can latch, I'd run it that way. I cleaned both surfaces of mine but it won't fit.

Do you want my #2, no pun intended, red ring? Is it smaller than yours? Maybe it would fit down in your bearing retainer? It sure looks like it'll be a good seal.

And now onto a question and a comment.

The question: Does anyone know where the wires are supposed to come through the pedal box? Or are they? I'm struggling to find a way for the wires to get to the brake and clutch pedals as well as the ignition switch. I thought there would be illustrations in the documentation showing the wiring but I can't find it.

Also, I think I found another use for seam sealer - the steering column boot. Here's a test fit, and if you look closely you can see two pieces of metal in the firewall. But what you can't see is that there's a third - the firewall brace. And this boot only fits up against the brace, which will allow water to come into the cab between the brace and the firewall.

So I'm thinking I'll goo the boot with seam sealer before installing it, and then smooth over the sealer on the engine side of the firewall to seal the boot to the firewall.

Anyone have better ideas?