Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

Success!!!! The brackets came out looking just like all of the other Silver Lining'd parts. Here's a comparison of the alternator bracket and the valve cover:

And here's the alternator bracket by itself:

Here's the AC/PS bracket:

A couple of pulleys and the other alternator bracket:

And last, the various fasteners to hold all those pieces, as well as some others, on:

And here's what the engine looks like with the PC'd parts gently installed:

[ArdWrknTrk]

And here's what the engine looks like with the PC'd parts gently installed:

Looooooking gooood!

[Gary Lewis]

Looooooking gooood!

Thanks, Jim.

Had a discussion about the PC'ing of parts with my brother today. He asked if I was creating another trailer queen like Dad's truck. I assured him that while the engine is going to be a jewel under the hood, I was just about done with the PC'ing.

However, then I got to thinking about a few other things that need attention. One is the fuel rail. As we discussed in this thread, I have two fuel rails - one that takes a 3-screw regulator and one that takes a 2-screw regulator. Having re-read the posts there I guess I'll go with the 2-screw rail because that appears to be the latest design - which has screws accessible from the top instead of the bottom, and two o-rings instead of one. But that rail is the one that needs the most attention, so I'll have to blast and powder coat it. May try the new epoxy/finish coat trick in black.

Oh yes, Jim - you've suggested tapping the ear of a 3G alternator, but I've forgotten what size. I've measured the hole and compared it to a 3/8 tap and I wouldn't get full threads. But, it looks like 10mm would work. Is that what you've suggested? After all, it was your alternator.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks, Jim.

Had a discussion about the PC'ing of parts with my brother today. He asked if I was creating another trailer queen like Dad's truck. I assured him that while the engine is going to be a jewel under the hood, I was just about done with the PC'ing.

However, then I got to thinking about a few other things that need attention. One is the fuel rail. As we discussed in this thread, I have two fuel rails - one that takes a 3-screw regulator and one that takes a 2-screw regulator. Having re-read the posts there I guess I'll go with the 2-screw rail because that appears to be the latest design - which has screws accessible from the top instead of the bottom, and two o-rings instead of one. But that rail is the one that needs the most attention, so I'll have to blast and powder coat it. May try the new epoxy/finish coat trick in black.

Oh yes, Jim - you've suggested tapping the ear of a 3G alternator, but I've forgotten what size. I've measured the hole and compared it to a 3/8 tap and I wouldn't get full threads. But, it looks like 10mm would work. Is that what you've suggested? After all, it was your alternator.

3G's come either with a 8mm tapped hole or a clearance hole.

(Different Lester numbers)

The 8mm can be tapped 3/8-16.

The clearance hole needs a Helicoil to bring it to 3/8-16.

At least that's what I've done in the past.

I suppose you could use a 10mm flange head bolt because your alternator doesn't need to pivot.

IIRC,10mm is .401", at least 10mm/40 caliber bullets are.

IDK how well a 10x1.25 bolt would slide in my adjuster bracket/quadrant.

One nice/interesting thing about metric fasteners.

The tap drill size is always fastener minus thread pitch.

So a 6x1 takes a 5mm drill and 10x1.25 would take an 8.75mm bit.

WAY easier than letter and number bits for fractional fasteners.

 

[85lebaront2]

3G's come either with a 8mm tapped hole or a clearance hole.

(Different Lester numbers)

The 8mm can be tapped 3/8-16.

The clearance hole needs a Helicoil to bring it to 3/8-16.

At least that's what I've done in the past.

I suppose you could use a 10mm flange head bolt because your alternator doesn't need to pivot.

IIRC,10mm is .401", at least 10mm/40 caliber bullets are.

IDK how well a 10x1.25 bolt would slide in my adjuster bracket/quadrant.

One nice/interesting thing about metric fasteners.

The tap drill size is always fastener minus thread pitch.

So a 6x1 takes a 5mm drill and 10x1.25 would take an 8.75mm bit.

WAY easier than letter and number bits for fractional fasteners.

Jim, they do pivot, the right side belt originally drove a smoke grinder and the alternator and is adjusted at the alternator (note the slot in the upper bracket in the pictures). I drilled and tapped mine 3/8-16 and use one of Ford's nice flange head bolts with the serrated flange face.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim, they do pivot, the right side belt originally drove a smoke grinder and the alternator and is adjusted at the alternator (note the slot in the upper bracket in the pictures). I drilled and tapped mine 3/8-16 and use one of Ford's nice flange head bolts with the serrated flange face.

D'oh!

I see the polygroove pulley and the tensioner, and I don't think.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Jim, they do pivot, the right side belt originally drove a smoke grinder and the alternator and is adjusted at the alternator (note the slot in the upper bracket in the pictures). I drilled and tapped mine 3/8-16 and use one of Ford's nice flange head bolts with the serrated flange face.

No prob, Jim. Yes, this one has to pivot as that is the belt adjustment.

Ok, here are some measurements on the alternator and the arm:

• Hole In Alternator: .398"

• Slot In Arm: .482"

And here are measurements on bolts I have, with the smaller measurement being the root of the threads and the larger the top:

3/8":

• .330"

• .370

10MM:

• .347

• .386

7/16":

• .378

• .430

12MM:

• .418

• .463

The only bolt that is going to have full engagement is a 12mm. I checked and it will pass through the slot of the arm with about .020" clearance.

Am I better off using a nut? Or Helicoil it? Or use a different alternator?

[ArdWrknTrk]

No prob, Jim. Yes, this one has to pivot as that is the belt adjustment.

Ok, here are some measurements on the alternator and the arm:

• Hole In Alternator: .398"

• Slot In Arm: .482"

And here are measurements on bolts I have, with the smaller measurement being the root of the threads and the larger the top:

3/8":

• .330"

• .370

10MM:

• .347

• .386

7/16":

• .378

• .430

12MM:

• .418

• .463

The only bolt that is going to have full engagement is a 12mm. I checked and it will pass through the slot of the arm with about .020" clearance.

Am I better off using a nut? Or Helicoil it? Or use a different alternator?

First, you never want 100% thread unless it needs to be vacuum tight.

Even aerospace bolts don't go much beyond 75% (although, there are different classes of fit for both taps and dies.

Second, unless you really want to fight yourself and invent new off color words, you do NOT want a nut.

Holding a pry bar for tension and a wrench to tighten the adjuster is already enough.

Trying to keep it tight AND work two wrenches is asking for defeat.

Tap the ear, or Helicoil it.

Neither takes long, nor is it difficult.

ETA; I'd go with 3/8-16 because it is what's present on the 1G & 2G alternators these trucks came with.

[Gary Lewis]

First, you never want 100% thread unless it needs to be vacuum tight.

Even aerospace bolts don't go much beyond 75% (although, there are different classes of fit for both taps and dies.

Second, unless you really want to fight yourself and invent new off color words, you do NOT want a nut.

Holding a pry bar for tension and a wrench to tighten the adjuster is already enough.

Trying to keep it tight AND work two wrenches is asking for defeat.

Tap the ear, or Helicoil it.

Neither takes long, nor is it difficult.

ETA; I'd go with 3/8-16 because it is what's present on the 1G & 2G alternators these trucks came with.

Been there, done that on the pry bar, bolt, and nut. Which is why I want to tap it. But, 7/16" or 12mm? I'm thinking 7/16" will do. But maybe 7/16-20.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Been there, done that on the pry bar, bolt, and nut. Which is why I want to tap it. But, 7/16" or 12mm? I'm thinking 7/16" will do. But maybe 7/16-20.

I wouldn't, but I'm not you.

That alloy isn't the toughest and it does take a nice thread.

If it were me I'd put the Helicoil and be glad for the tougher stainless threads in the ear of my alternator.