Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks.

I used Dupli Color's dark Ford blue engine paint and I think it is darker than the paint Ford used. But since your PC'd parts and mine are exactly the same color we'll know when we compare.

Got the lower plenum torqued down this morn using the sequence shown below from the '95 FSM on the Instructions tab. And I was certainly glad to have those instructions and that illustration 'cause the various types of fasteners was confusing. But it is together as shown.

Also, the torque sequence is a bit unusual, probably because of the fact that some fasteners go in vertically and some go in at an angle. So I used the sequence religiously in steps of 10, then 20, then 30 lb-ft. But, on Step D where it says "Repeat Step C to make sure intake manifold is now fully seated" I ran Step C several times until on the final iteration everything was exactly on 30 lb-ft. It probably took five iterations to get there, and prior to that the vertical bolts always needed a bit more.

And, I thought I'd show you a pic of the rear plenum/china wall seal. Remember that I put lots of RTV (Permatex Optimum Black Gasket Maker) on there yesterday afternoon and let it set up overnight. And today when I torqued it down the cured RTV pushed out a bit and proved that I have a complete seal.

[Gary Lewis]

Got the lower plenum torqued down this morn using the sequence shown below from the '95 FSM on the Instructions tab. And I was certainly glad to have those instructions and that illustration 'cause the various types of fasteners was confusing. But it is together as shown.

Also, the torque sequence is a bit unusual, probably because of the fact that some fasteners go in vertically and some go in at an angle. So I used the sequence religiously in steps of 10, then 20, then 30 lb-ft. But, on Step D where it says "Repeat Step C to make sure intake manifold is now fully seated" I ran Step C several times until on the final iteration everything was exactly on 30 lb-ft. It probably took five iterations to get there, and prior to that the vertical bolts always needed a bit more.

And, I thought I'd show you a pic of the rear plenum/china wall seal. Remember that I put lots of RTV (Permatex Optimum Black Gasket Maker) on there yesterday afternoon and let it set up overnight. And today when I torqued it down the cured RTV pushed out a bit and proved that I have a complete seal.

Well, the valve covers are now on. And I did it according to the directions:

1. Clean valve cover and cylinder head sealing

surface. Position valve cover gasket in valve

cover seal groove, making sure that the valve

cover gasket tang is aligned with notch in the

valve cover.

2. Position valve covers(s) on the cylinder head

(6049). Starting with rearmost bolt and working

forward, tighten the four valve cover bolt and

washer assemblies to 12-15 N-m (9-11 lb-ft).

Rearmost forward? I would have never guessed that. Instead, I'd have started in the center and worked out.

Anyway, I also used the left-over neoprene gasket washers I had under the heads of the four center bolts on each valve cover. From two trucks worth I had plenty of good ones. But, to ensure they seal I used a q-tip and coated the top of the valve cover where the washers hit and then the tops of the washers with just a bit of PST. Hopefully that'll make them seal nicely.

But the valve covers are on and the engine is now upside down on the stand, as shown below. I've cleaned the paint off the gasket surfaces and came across a helpful note from Scott:

And if you don't see it:

So now I'm cleaning the pan, which can't be powder coated because I don't think the seal for the dip stick flange would take the heat. But, speaking of that, I'm thinking of drilling the rivets out, tapping the flange, and re-installing it with The Right Stuff after powder coating the pan, just as I did on Dad's truck. That way I'd know the seal is good. However, I don't see any indication that it isn't good.

Thoughts?

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well, the valve covers are now on. And I did it according to the directions:

1. Clean valve cover and cylinder head sealingsurface. Position valve cover gasket in valvecover seal groove, making sure that the valvecover gasket tang is aligned with notch in thevalve cover.2. Position valve covers(s) on the cylinder head(6049). Starting with rearmost bolt and workingforward, tighten the four valve cover bolt andwasher assemblies to 12-15 N-m (9-11 lb-ft).

Rearmost forward? I would have never guessed that. Instead, I'd have started in the center and worked out.Anyway, I also used the left-over neoprene gasket washers I had under the heads of the four center bolts on each valve cover. From two trucks worth I had plenty of good ones. But, to ensure they seal I used a q-tip and coated the top of the valve cover where the washers hit and then the tops of the washers with just a bit of PST. Hopefully that'll make them seal nicely.But the valve covers are on and the engine is now upside down on the stand, as shown below. I've cleaned the paint off the gasket surfaces and came across a helpful note from Scott: And if you don't see it:So now I'm cleaning the pan, which can't be powder coated because I don't think the seal for the dip stick flange would take the heat. But, speaking of that, I'm thinking of drilling the rivets out, tapping the flange, and re-installing it with The Right Stuff after powder coating the pan, just as I did on Dad's truck. That way I'd know the seal is good. However, I don't see any indication that it isn't good.Thoughts?

Oh, come on!!!He knows this isn't your first rodeo.

 

 

I half expected to see "Kilroy wuz here" but not that.

 

 

As for the pan (dipstick tube) I think it's tight now and will be for decades to come.

Let someone else cross that bridge.

 

 

On Fri, Nov 22, 2019, 4:35 PM Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

 

 

 

[salans7]

As for the pan (dipstick tube) I think it's tight now and will be for

decades to come.

Let someone else cross that bridge.

You and I both know Gary will be the one to cross that bridge, and the engineer in him would never let someone else cross it.

[Gary Lewis]

LOL! I'm sure that was done before we talked several times and he realized I'm a by-the-book engineer. So I'd have seen in the FSM to put RTV there. But, I appreciate the help.

As for the dip stick flange/adapter, it does look dry. And I could probably button up the engine tomorrow if I don't wander off on that quest.

[Gary Lewis]

As for the pan (dipstick tube) I think it's tight now and will be for

decades to come.

Let someone else cross that bridge.

You and I both know Gary will be the one to cross that bridge, and the engineer in him would never let someone else cross it.

Shaun - Do you read lips?

But, you are right, although probably not for the reason you are thinking. I just realized that I don't have a new oil pump drive shaft to spin the Melling M-84D pump Scott supplied. And while it is a standard volume/standard pressure pump, he didn't think the shaft from Huck's engine, shown below, looked good enough so recommended a Melling IS-84, and suggested I buy it locally as it won't cost much.

However, we don't have much locally so I turned to the internet, and that shaft is $18 but won't get here until Wednesday. But, I found a Milodon 22570 4130 Chrome Moly for a bit more that will be here on Monday.

So, I can't put the pan on until at least Monday and I might as well take the time to make sure it doesn't leak.

[Gary Lewis]

As for the pan (dipstick tube) I think it's tight now and will be for

decades to come.

Let someone else cross that bridge.

You and I both know Gary will be the one to cross that bridge, and the engineer in him would never let someone else cross it.

Shaun - Do you read lips?

But, you are right, although probably not for the reason you are thinking. I just realized that I don't have a new oil pump drive shaft to spin the Melling M-84D pump Scott supplied. And while it is a standard volume/standard pressure pump, he didn't think the shaft from Huck's engine, shown below, looked good enough so recommended a Melling IS-84, and suggested I buy it locally as it won't cost much.

However, we don't have much locally so I turned to the internet, and that shaft is $18 but won't get here until Wednesday. But, I found a Milodon 22570 4130 Chrome Moly for a bit more that will be here on Monday.

So, I can't put the pan on until at least Monday and I might as well take the time to make sure it doesn't leak.

Ok, I'm about 3/4's of the way across that bridge. Is it the Bridge Of Sighs?

Got the dip stick flange off and discovered that the gasket was cork. Glad I'm doing this. Then I got the pan media-blasted, which was quite an undertaking in and of itself as it is BIG. Plus, someone had splashed some really hard gray paint on the pan and it did NOT want to come off. But I did get it off.

Along the way I decided I wanted to make sure the powder stays on, so I used the Eastwood epoxy primer first. You have to get that to flow out, which is at about 300 degrees, pull the part out of the oven, and then coat it with the finish power and put it back in the oven. But the electrostatic attraction is cut significantly by the coat of epoxy, so it is best to lay on the finish powder while the part is still hot so it'll melt and stick. And you are working against time as the part is cooling and after a bit the finish powder won't stick.

The results came out pretty good, although in this first pic you can see a light area with the gray primer showing through a bit. Still, it is pretty good and I'm happy.

[85lebaront2]

Ok, I'm about 3/4's of the way across that bridge. Is it the Bridge Of Sighs?

Got the dip stick flange off and discovered that the gasket was cork. Glad I'm doing this. Then I got the pan media-blasted, which was quite an undertaking in and of itself as it is BIG. Plus, someone had splashed some really hard gray paint on the pan and it did NOT want to come off. But I did get it off.

Along the way I decided I wanted to make sure the powder stays on, so I used the Eastwood epoxy primer first. You have to get that to flow out, which is at about 300 degrees, pull the part out of the oven, and then coat it with the finish power and put it back in the oven. But the electrostatic attraction is cut significantly by the coat of epoxy, so it is best to lay on the finish powder while the part is still hot so it'll melt and stick. And you are working against time as the part is cooling and after a bit the finish powder won't stick.

The results came out pretty good, although in this first pic you can see a light area with the gray primer showing through a bit. Still, it is pretty good and I'm happy.

Gary, I thought you were going to get the newer pan and dipstick like I am using on Darth? This one:

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, I thought you were going to get the newer pan and dipstick like I am using on Darth? This one:

It turned out that the pan on Huck's engine uses the dip stick with an o-ring. So I'm using it. But I do have the one-piece pan gasket.

By the way, those valve covers look great!

[85lebaront2]

It turned out that the pan on Huck's engine uses the dip stick with an o-ring. So I'm using it. But I do have the one-piece pan gasket.

By the way, those valve covers look great!

Those are the set I got off a burned RV engine, mainly to get the later lower intake and fuel rail. They have the deep grooves and are just to cover things up.