85lebaront2 Posted November 19, 2019 Share Posted November 19, 2019 Agree 100%! And you see that in the first post on this page. I was trying to point out there are shade tree methods vastly superior to engine oil. But if you have the $ & time to get The Right Stuff from ARP, SPS or wherever, go for it! Jim, the point I was trying to make was stick with the manufacturer's specified procedure if you are using aftermarket premium bolts or studs, then use what the yprescribe, if using OEM fasteners then use the OEM procedure. Lubiing the Ford bolts with something a slippery as ARP's lube may cause the bolts to be over stressed at the same torque value. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 19, 2019 Share Posted November 19, 2019 Jim, the point I was trying to make was stick with the manufacturer's specified procedure if you are using aftermarket premium bolts or studs, then use what the yprescribe, if using OEM fasteners then use the OEM procedure. Lubiing the Ford bolts with something a slippery as ARP's lube may cause the bolts to be over stressed at the same torque value. I thought that what I said last night about torque values being adjusted for less than optimal conditions was clear enough, but I guess not. Of course "follow the instructions" (in deference to Gary) but the readings will never be as consistent as a properly lubed bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 19, 2019 Author Share Posted November 19, 2019 I thought that what I said last night about torque values being adjusted for less than optimal conditions was clear enough, but I guess not. Of course "follow the instructions" (in deference to Gary) but the readings will never be as consistent as a properly lubed bolt. Oddly enough, the factory shop manual doesn't appear to say anything about lubricating 460 head bolts. But it does say that 4.9L head bolt threads should be lubricated by engine oil. That seems strange. But Scotty said to lube the threads and under the head with engine oil. And, my comparison of using engine oil vs the ARP lube seemed to get the same results - the bolts torqued to the same positions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 20, 2019 Author Share Posted November 20, 2019 Oddly enough, the factory shop manual doesn't appear to say anything about lubricating 460 head bolts. But it does say that 4.9L head bolt threads should be lubricated by engine oil. That seems strange. But Scotty said to lube the threads and under the head with engine oil. And, my comparison of using engine oil vs the ARP lube seemed to get the same results - the bolts torqued to the same positions. Speaking of the factory shop manual, it is a bit suspect in this sequence for installing the "hachet"/damper spacer and the damper: 3. Install crankshaft damper spacer on the inner Woodruff key. Apply Gasket Maker E2AZ-19562-B or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSK-M2G348-A5 to the front of the key on the crankshaft, and in the keyway inside the crankshaft damper spacer, after installing spacer. Install Woodruff key for crankshaft vibration damper. 4. Apply Ford Multi-Purpose Grease D0AZ-19584-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESB-M1C93-A to the front seal rubbing surface of the crankshaft vibration damper inner hub to prevent damage to the crankshaft front seal. Apply Ford Multi-Purpose Grease D0AZ-19584-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESB-M1C93-A to the front of the crankshaft for crankshaft vibration damper installation. How do you apply Gasket Maker to the front of the key on the crankshaft after installing the damper spacer? And there's no "front seal rubbing surface" on the damper. So I applied grease to the spacer's front seal rubbing surface and then Permatex Super Form-A-Gasket to the front of the key as well as the keyway to the spacer and installed the spacer. Then I dobbed FAM on the front of the keyway and installed the damper. And, having PC'd the pointer and damper bolt, the whole thing came out looking like this, although the flash washed out the dark blue. And, note that the damper has the 1/4 turns already marked, so I'm ready to start installing push rods and shims. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted November 20, 2019 Share Posted November 20, 2019 Speaking of the factory shop manual, it is a bit suspect in this sequence for installing the "hachet"/damper spacer and the damper: 3. Install crankshaft damper spacer on the inner Woodruff key. Apply Gasket Maker E2AZ-19562-B or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSK-M2G348-A5 to the front of the key on the crankshaft, and in the keyway inside the crankshaft damper spacer, after installing spacer. Install Woodruff key for crankshaft vibration damper. 4. Apply Ford Multi-Purpose Grease D0AZ-19584-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESB-M1C93-A to the front seal rubbing surface of the crankshaft vibration damper inner hub to prevent damage to the crankshaft front seal. Apply Ford Multi-Purpose Grease D0AZ-19584-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESB-M1C93-A to the front of the crankshaft for crankshaft vibration damper installation. How do you apply Gasket Maker to the front of the key on the crankshaft after installing the damper spacer? And there's no "front seal rubbing surface" on the damper. So I applied grease to the spacer's front seal rubbing surface and then Permatex Super Form-A-Gasket to the front of the key as well as the keyway to the spacer and installed the spacer. Then I dobbed FAM on the front of the keyway and installed the damper. And, having PC'd the pointer and damper bolt, the whole thing came out looking like this, although the flash washed out the dark blue. And, note that the damper has the 1/4 turns already marked, so I'm ready to start installing push rods and shims. Nice details! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 21, 2019 Author Share Posted November 21, 2019 Nice details! Thanks, David. Got started on adjusting the pre-load on the lifters this afternoon. Talked to Scott to confirm my understanding that I want 1/4 to 1/2 turn on the bolt after all the slack is out of the valve train, and it doesn't matter if no shim is needed or if the .020" or .035" shims are needed. Yep, that's right. And, he said that this adjustment will help with the top end of the RPM range. With that I got started on the valve train and #1's and #5's valves adjusted. I'll document what I do for each of the cylinders tomorrow, but so far I've used no shims on two and the .020" shims on two. And, by the way, Scott recently said about my efforts on the valve train "You are making this too hard, Gary!" And today he asked "Are you an engineer?" Guilty! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 Thanks, David. Got started on adjusting the pre-load on the lifters this afternoon. Talked to Scott to confirm my understanding that I want 1/4 to 1/2 turn on the bolt after all the slack is out of the valve train, and it doesn't matter if no shim is needed or if the .020" or .035" shims are needed. Yep, that's right. And, he said that this adjustment will help with the top end of the RPM range. With that I got started on the valve train and #1's and #5's valves adjusted. I'll document what I do for each of the cylinders tomorrow, but so far I've used no shims on two and the .020" shims on two. And, by the way, Scott recently said about my efforts on the valve train "You are making this too hard, Gary!" And today he asked "Are you an engineer?" Guilty! Not only an engineer, but probably should have worked at NASA. But that might have been a bad idea, he would probably be restoring an AMC Pacer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 21, 2019 Author Share Posted November 21, 2019 Not only an engineer, but probably should have worked at NASA. But that might have been a bad idea, he would probably be restoring an AMC Pacer. NASA? Not hardly. That's serious stuff. As for a Pacer, I drove one once. Rent car. Rolled in the corners like a bowling ball. No way, Jose!!! Big Blue corners better than that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 Not only an engineer, but probably should have worked at NASA. But that might have been a bad idea, he would probably be restoring an AMC Pacer. ... And Scott was 100% correct, on both counts! Not only an engineer, but probably should have worked at NASA. But that might have been a bad idea, he would probably be restoring an AMC Pacer. We'd still be microanalising the switch layout for the Apollo capsule if Gary was in charge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 The factory shop manual is a bit suspect in this sequence for installing the "hachet"/damper spacer and the damper: How do you apply Gasket Maker to the front of the key on the crankshaft after installing the damper spacer? And there's no "front seal rubbing surface" on the damper. Squirt it in the end of the keyway, that you can still see? Grease on the face of the spacer that contacts the damper could preclude rust, and difficult removal. Pretty damper! What exactly is that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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