Big Blue's Transformation

[salans7]

Yes, it is. Good catch. However, there are no gaskets or o-rings on anything, so that's just a mock-up.

As long as you put them on the right way on final assembly.

[grumpin]

Thanks, David.

Got the head bolts, water pump bolts, and dowels in today. So I installed the heads. I'd like to say that it went "smoothly", but that wasn't the case. I lubed the threads of the bolts and under the heads sparingly with engine oil, but some of them jerked/cracked loudly as I tightened them down. So I asked Scott and he said I probably just didn't have enough oil on them and that I should mark where they are, take them out one at a time, re-lube, and put them back to 140 lb-ft. And then check to see if they turned a bit more.

Anyway, here's what that looks like:

Also, I ran the test of the push rods that Scott suggested. Pretty much as he predicted - from the point where all slack was out of the mechanism the intake on #1 took 1 3/16's turns to bottom the rocker stand in the head's slot, and the exhaust took 7/8's turn. So he's sending me the 8.550" push rods and a shim kit. With that I'll test each push rod and shim so that I have 1/4 to 1/2 turn on the bolt before the rocker stand seats in the head. That will give the ideal pre-load.

I also asked about checking for the proper contact between the rocker and valve tip. He said that with bolt-down rockers it is what it is. But, by setting the pre-load we are ensuring that we have the proper contact.

And, I "assembled" the engine a bit farther, just seeing how it might look. You'll have to imagine the block and heads being blue, but what'cha think?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks, David.

Got the head bolts, water pump bolts, and dowels in today. So I installed the heads. I'd like to say that it went "smoothly", but that wasn't the case. I lubed the threads of the bolts and under the heads sparingly with engine oil, but some of them jerked/cracked loudly as I tightened them down. So I asked Scott and he said I probably just didn't have enough oil on them and that I should mark where they are, take them out one at a time, re-lube, and put them back to 140 lb-ft. And then check to see if they turned a bit more.

Anyway, here's what that looks like:

Also, I ran the test of the push rods that Scott suggested. Pretty much as he predicted - from the point where all slack was out of the mechanism the intake on #1 took 1 3/16's turns to bottom the rocker stand in the head's slot, and the exhaust took 7/8's turn. So he's sending me the 8.550" push rods and a shim kit. With that I'll test each push rod and shim so that I have 1/4 to 1/2 turn on the bolt before the rocker stand seats in the head. That will give the ideal pre-load.

I also asked about checking for the proper contact between the rocker and valve tip. He said that with bolt-down rockers it is what it is. But, by setting the pre-load we are ensuring that we have the proper contact.

And, I "assembled" the engine a bit farther, just seeing how it might look. You'll have to imagine the block and heads being blue, but what'cha think?

Try using STP as bolt lube next time.

We used to use as all-in-one assembly lube back when it was loaded with ZDDP.

That, and a little moly paste on the cam, I never lost an engine on startup.

[salans7]

Try using STP as bolt lube next time.

We used to use as all-in-one assembly lube back when it was loaded with ZDDP.

That, and a little moly paste on the cam, I never lost an engine on startup.

Gary, there should be an email in your inbox regarding the RSK. If not, let me know.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, there should be an email in your inbox regarding the RSK. If not, let me know.

Got it and responded.

Not much will be happening on the truck today as it is Janey's birthday. So we are CELEBRATING! Shopping, movie, dinner, etc!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Got it and responded.

Not much will be happening on the truck today as it is Janey's birthday. So we are CELEBRATING! Shopping, movie, dinner, etc!

While I've never met her (or sampled her famous brownies) I'd like to wish her a very happy birthday! 🎂🎉💖

Anyone who can bring you so much joy -and put up with your addiction- is wonderful in my eyes.

[Gary Lewis]

While I've never met her (or sampled her famous brownies) I'd like to wish her a very happy birthday! 🎂🎉💖

Anyone who can bring you so much joy -and put up with your addiction- is wonderful in my eyes.

She says "Thank you!"

Yes, she's wonderful. The love of my life, my soul mate. And she does put up with a LOT.

[Gary Lewis]

She says "Thank you!"

Yes, she's wonderful. The love of my life, my soul mate. And she does put up with a LOT.

A couple of things to report today. First about the head bolts. I had re-torqued about four of them using copious engine oil on most of the threads when Brandon/Bruno2 called. In the midst of the call he mentioned using ARP's grease on head bolts, and that reminded me that I had some of that grease left over. So I decided to do a test of oil vs ARP's grease.

The bolts with engine oil had about 2/3 of the threads dipped into 10W30, and some of the oil that was dripping was allowed to drip onto the head where the bolt's flange hits. And those four bolts turned 1/8 to 3/16 of a turn more with this approach than they did with my sparing application of oil. And unlike with just a bit of oil, all of these with in smoothly.

So then to the ARP grease. I put the grease down into the first 1/2" of threads and then a bit under the heads of the bolts. And these also went in smoothly and turned 1/8 to 3/16 more to reach 140 lb-ft than they did originally. In other words, I couldn't tell any difference.

However, I did check to see how much torque the bolts took to turn down to the original spot when well lubed, and that varied from just over 90 to 120 lb-ft.

Then I turned to getting the rest of the parts out to assemble the engine. But, try as I did I couldn't find the timing cover I got from Jim. So I pulled out the list we used, and sure enough there wasn't a timing cover on the list.

So I pulled the balancer, "hatchet", and timing cover off of Huck's engine. YUK! Those things were FILTHY! So I ran them through the parts washer, and then media blasted the timing cover and its fasteners as well as the timing pointer. I think they came out well, so now I'm debating how to finish them.

I think what I want to do is to PC the timing pointer Silver Lining like the intake and valve covers. And then put the timing cover on w/o the pointer, the water pump on with the stainless bolts, the extra lower plenum and an old pair of valve covers on and paint everything dark Ford blue. Then I'll add the timing pointer and replace the pan Scotty sent with the black one I got off of Huck. In other words, the engine/timing cover/water pump will be blue, the intake and valve covers Silver Lining, and the pan black.

Thoughts?

[ArdWrknTrk]

A couple of things to report today. First about the head bolts. I had re-torqued about four of them using copious engine oil on most of the threads when Brandon/Bruno2 called. In the midst of the call he mentioned using ARP's grease on head bolts, and that reminded me that I had some of that grease left over. So I decided to do a test of oil vs ARP's grease.The bolts with engine oil had about 2/3 of the threads dipped into 10W30, and some of the oil that was dripping was allowed to drip onto the head where the bolt's flange hits. And those four bolts turned 1/8 to 3/16 of a turn more with this approach than they did with my sparing application of oil. And unlike with just a bit of oil, all of these with in smoothly.So then to the ARP grease. I put the grease down into the first 1/2" of threads and then a bit under the heads of the bolts. And these also went in smoothly and turned 1/8 to 3/16 more to reach 140 lb-ft than they did originally. In other words, I couldn't tell any difference.However, I did check to see how much torque the bolts took to turn down to the original spot when well lubed, and that varied from just over 90 to 120 lb-ft. :nabble_smiley_scared:Then I turned to getting the rest of the parts out to assemble the engine. But, try as I did I couldn't find the timing cover I got from Jim. So I pulled out the list we used, and sure enough there wasn't a timing cover on the list. :nabble_head-slap-23_orig:So I pulled the balancer, "hatchet", and timing cover off of Huck's engine. YUK! Those things were FILTHY! So I ran them through the parts washer, and then media blasted the timing cover and its fasteners as well as the timing pointer. I think they came out well, so now I'm debating how to finish them.I think what I want to do is to PC the timing pointer Silver Lining like the intake and valve covers. And then put the timing cover on w/o the pointer, the water pump on with the stainless bolts, the extra lower plenum and an old pair of valve covers on and paint everything dark Ford blue. Then I'll add the timing pointer and replace the pan Scotty sent with the black one I got off of Huck. In other words, the engine/timing cover/water pump will be blue, the intake and valve covers Silver Lining, and the pan black.Thoughts?

Yeah I'm replying by email.I don't have time for pics to load.

 

 

I rattlebombed my entire engine gray.

Except the crinkle black valve covers, clear coat aluminum intake an a few black brackets.

 

 

I'm sure it will be stunning!

 

 

On Sat, Nov 16, 2019, 5:14 PM Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

 

 

 

[Gary Lewis]

No prob, Jim.

Rattle cans work, and I'll probably use two of them on the block, heads, timing cover, and water pump.