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Big Blue's Transformation

Gary Lewis
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ArdWrknTrk Grand Master

ArdWrknTrk

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Interesting. Looking at the pics of the Ford Racing one vs the Ford one they look the same. And the prices are pretty much the same as well.

If you recall I was in a jam, so I ordered the one I could get fastest.

Pretty obvious that the part through the rear counter would carry a C8 p/n as that's when Ford started making 429's.

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Gary Lewis Grand Master

Gary Lewis

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Glad to see those deep groove later covers from the Giving Truck are coming out so nice and shiny! :nabble_smiley_happy:

Bill - In spite of having "Racing" in its name that one is roughly the same price, so I'd bet you are right. Same plant and same part.

Jim - Yes, the design is decades old. But it amazes me that people don't realize the need. I googled that part number and there are tons of stories out there about people having trouble with their engine overheating, only to discover that plate isn't there. And others breaking the A/C bracket because they left it out. :nabble_anim_crazy:

And yes, my portion of the Giving Truck's parts are starting to be used. Those valve covers took a bit of sanding as there was some surface corrosion that I feared would show up in the finish. But I think they look GOOD!

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Gary Lewis Grand Master

Gary Lewis

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As for what I did today, I transformed a couple more parts:

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n43476/Valve_Covers_Blasted.jpghttp://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n43476/PCd_Valve_Covers.jpg

Oooh, purdy! :nabble_smiley_good:

Thanks, David. :nabble_smiley_wink:

Got the head bolts, water pump bolts, and dowels in today. So I installed the heads. I'd like to say that it went "smoothly", but that wasn't the case. I lubed the threads of the bolts and under the heads sparingly with engine oil, but some of them jerked/cracked loudly as I tightened them down. So I asked Scott and he said I probably just didn't have enough oil on them and that I should mark where they are, take them out one at a time, re-lube, and put them back to 140 lb-ft. And then check to see if they turned a bit more.

Anyway, here's what that looks like:

Engine_With_Heads_On_-_Front_-_II.thumb.jpg.13f466208eea0e4225c8004a9c4bb4ee.jpg

Also, I ran the test of the push rods that Scott suggested. Pretty much as he predicted - from the point where all slack was out of the mechanism the intake on #1 took 1 3/16's turns to bottom the rocker stand in the head's slot, and the exhaust took 7/8's turn. So he's sending me the 8.550" push rods and a shim kit. With that I'll test each push rod and shim so that I have 1/4 to 1/2 turn on the bolt before the rocker stand seats in the head. That will give the ideal pre-load.

I also asked about checking for the proper contact between the rocker and valve tip. He said that with bolt-down rockers it is what it is. But, by setting the pre-load we are ensuring that we have the proper contact.

And, I "assembled" the engine a bit farther, just seeing how it might look. You'll have to imagine the block and heads being blue, but what'cha think? :nabble_smiley_grin:

Engine_Mocked_Up_-_LF.thumb.jpg.e7b85bf5a0113fb020cda1bef45cf2e0.jpg

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salans7 Grand Master

salans7

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Thanks, David. :nabble_smiley_wink:

Got the head bolts, water pump bolts, and dowels in today. So I installed the heads. I'd like to say that it went "smoothly", but that wasn't the case. I lubed the threads of the bolts and under the heads sparingly with engine oil, but some of them jerked/cracked loudly as I tightened them down. So I asked Scott and he said I probably just didn't have enough oil on them and that I should mark where they are, take them out one at a time, re-lube, and put them back to 140 lb-ft. And then check to see if they turned a bit more.

Anyway, here's what that looks like:

Also, I ran the test of the push rods that Scott suggested. Pretty much as he predicted - from the point where all slack was out of the mechanism the intake on #1 took 1 3/16's turns to bottom the rocker stand in the head's slot, and the exhaust took 7/8's turn. So he's sending me the 8.550" push rods and a shim kit. With that I'll test each push rod and shim so that I have 1/4 to 1/2 turn on the bolt before the rocker stand seats in the head. That will give the ideal pre-load.

I also asked about checking for the proper contact between the rocker and valve tip. He said that with bolt-down rockers it is what it is. But, by setting the pre-load we are ensuring that we have the proper contact.

And, I "assembled" the engine a bit farther, just seeing how it might look. You'll have to imagine the block and heads being blue, but what'cha think? :nabble_smiley_grin:

Is your driver's side valve cover backwards?

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