ArdWrknTrk Posted November 14, 2019 Share Posted November 14, 2019 The FRPP part # for the backing plate is different, and available Amazon Prime (one day for me) The price was right in there. Jim - What part # are you seeing? Here's the Amazon listing for the PN I found - $34.93. M8501-460BP It was $29xx when I bought it in February of 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 14, 2019 Author Share Posted November 14, 2019 M8501-460BP It was $29xx when I bought it in February of 2017 Interesting. Looking at the pics of the Ford Racing one vs the Ford one they look the same. And the prices are pretty much the same as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted November 14, 2019 Share Posted November 14, 2019 Interesting. Looking at the pics of the Ford Racing one vs the Ford one they look the same. And the prices are pretty much the same as well. They are stamped out in the same plant I will lay you odds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 14, 2019 Share Posted November 14, 2019 Interesting. Looking at the pics of the Ford Racing one vs the Ford one they look the same. And the prices are pretty much the same as well. If you recall I was in a jam, so I ordered the one I could get fastest. Pretty obvious that the part through the rear counter would carry a C8 p/n as that's when Ford started making 429's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 14, 2019 Share Posted November 14, 2019 David & Jim - Was busy composing my last post so didn't see yours. Maybe mine answered yours? As for what I did today, I transformed a couple more parts: Glad to see those deep groove later covers from the Giving Truck are coming out so nice and shiny! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 14, 2019 Author Share Posted November 14, 2019 Glad to see those deep groove later covers from the Giving Truck are coming out so nice and shiny! Bill - In spite of having "Racing" in its name that one is roughly the same price, so I'd bet you are right. Same plant and same part. Jim - Yes, the design is decades old. But it amazes me that people don't realize the need. I googled that part number and there are tons of stories out there about people having trouble with their engine overheating, only to discover that plate isn't there. And others breaking the A/C bracket because they left it out. And yes, my portion of the Giving Truck's parts are starting to be used. Those valve covers took a bit of sanding as there was some surface corrosion that I feared would show up in the finish. But I think they look GOOD! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted November 14, 2019 Share Posted November 14, 2019 As for what I did today, I transformed a couple more parts: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n43476/Valve_Covers_Blasted.jpghttp://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n43476/PCd_Valve_Covers.jpg Oooh, purdy! Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 14, 2019 Author Share Posted November 14, 2019 As for what I did today, I transformed a couple more parts: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n43476/Valve_Covers_Blasted.jpghttp://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n43476/PCd_Valve_Covers.jpg Oooh, purdy! Thanks, David. Got the head bolts, water pump bolts, and dowels in today. So I installed the heads. I'd like to say that it went "smoothly", but that wasn't the case. I lubed the threads of the bolts and under the heads sparingly with engine oil, but some of them jerked/cracked loudly as I tightened them down. So I asked Scott and he said I probably just didn't have enough oil on them and that I should mark where they are, take them out one at a time, re-lube, and put them back to 140 lb-ft. And then check to see if they turned a bit more. Anyway, here's what that looks like: Also, I ran the test of the push rods that Scott suggested. Pretty much as he predicted - from the point where all slack was out of the mechanism the intake on #1 took 1 3/16's turns to bottom the rocker stand in the head's slot, and the exhaust took 7/8's turn. So he's sending me the 8.550" push rods and a shim kit. With that I'll test each push rod and shim so that I have 1/4 to 1/2 turn on the bolt before the rocker stand seats in the head. That will give the ideal pre-load. I also asked about checking for the proper contact between the rocker and valve tip. He said that with bolt-down rockers it is what it is. But, by setting the pre-load we are ensuring that we have the proper contact. And, I "assembled" the engine a bit farther, just seeing how it might look. You'll have to imagine the block and heads being blue, but what'cha think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted November 14, 2019 Share Posted November 14, 2019 Thanks, David. Got the head bolts, water pump bolts, and dowels in today. So I installed the heads. I'd like to say that it went "smoothly", but that wasn't the case. I lubed the threads of the bolts and under the heads sparingly with engine oil, but some of them jerked/cracked loudly as I tightened them down. So I asked Scott and he said I probably just didn't have enough oil on them and that I should mark where they are, take them out one at a time, re-lube, and put them back to 140 lb-ft. And then check to see if they turned a bit more. Anyway, here's what that looks like: Also, I ran the test of the push rods that Scott suggested. Pretty much as he predicted - from the point where all slack was out of the mechanism the intake on #1 took 1 3/16's turns to bottom the rocker stand in the head's slot, and the exhaust took 7/8's turn. So he's sending me the 8.550" push rods and a shim kit. With that I'll test each push rod and shim so that I have 1/4 to 1/2 turn on the bolt before the rocker stand seats in the head. That will give the ideal pre-load. I also asked about checking for the proper contact between the rocker and valve tip. He said that with bolt-down rockers it is what it is. But, by setting the pre-load we are ensuring that we have the proper contact. And, I "assembled" the engine a bit farther, just seeing how it might look. You'll have to imagine the block and heads being blue, but what'cha think? Is your driver's side valve cover backwards? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 14, 2019 Author Share Posted November 14, 2019 Is your driver's side valve cover backwards? Yes, it is. Good catch. However, there are no gaskets or o-rings on anything, so that's just a mock-up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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