Gary Lewis Posted October 16, 2019 Author Share Posted October 16, 2019 Now, this is interesting. I never had a lift point on my engine. The E7 # probably goes with the E7 efi heads. Does it bolt where my thermactor crossover & check valve do? Jim - I don't know about where it bolts as this is the only pic I seem to have that shows it. But I'm thinking it does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 16, 2019 Share Posted October 16, 2019 Jim - I don't know about where it bolts as this is the only pic I seem to have that shows it. But I'm thinking it does. Well, of course the heads are totally different, but that would occupy the same real estate as the crossover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted October 16, 2019 Share Posted October 16, 2019 Jim - I don't know about where it bolts as this is the only pic I seem to have that shows it. But I'm thinking it does. On the front it goes in behind the alternator/air pump bracket and attaches to the lower set of holes on that head, one about where the air pump passage blanking plug would be on a carbureted engine. Gary, did it look like the strap was bent to clear the firewall? If so then that would indicate that the heads may have been swapped on the huck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 16, 2019 Author Share Posted October 16, 2019 On the front it goes in behind the alternator/air pump bracket and attaches to the lower set of holes on that head, one about where the air pump passage blanking plug would be on a carbureted engine. Gary, did it look like the strap was bent to clear the firewall? If so then that would indicate that the heads may have been swapped on the huck. Yes, it is curved to miss the firewall. But the heads were certainly swapped as they are the later F3's. And I'm really happy with that 'cause here's what Scotty said: The F3 castings have a revised intake bowl that biases the flow column to the chamber wall side imparting a pretty high degree of swirl as the column passes the throat / valve. The F3's port mods are designed to make more torque. As cast the F3's have a 2.100" intake valve vs the 2" intake valve of the E7's. Fully ported the heads have similar max flow rates with the F3's edging out the E7's every where excepting .800" lift which is really meaningless!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 16, 2019 Share Posted October 16, 2019 Yes, it is curved to miss the firewall. But the heads were certainly swapped as they are the later F3's. And I'm really happy with that 'cause here's what Scotty said: The F3 castings have a revised intake bowl that biases the flow column to the chamber wall side imparting a pretty high degree of swirl as the column passes the throat / valve. The F3's port mods are designed to make more torque. As cast the F3's have a 2.100" intake valve vs the 2" intake valve of the E7's. Fully ported the heads have similar max flow rates with the F3's edging out the E7's every where excepting .800" lift which is really meaningless!!! Scotty's the man! Refresh my memory on what Eric has done with the heads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 16, 2019 Author Share Posted October 16, 2019 Scotty's the man! Refresh my memory on what Eric has done with the heads? New valves, guides, and seals. No porting as he only does aluminum now. But he did back-cut the valves and did a 5-angle job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 17, 2019 Author Share Posted October 17, 2019 New valves, guides, and seals. No porting as he only does aluminum now. But he did back-cut the valves and did a 5-angle job. Got the engine crossmember and frame horns cleaned up, primed, and painted today. Oh, and I got the areas where the rear spring hangers bolt on painted as well since they'd been banged up a bit in getting the old hangers off. Plus there were bare holes in the frame. Decided to just go with a good metal primer and semi-gloss black, both from rattle cans, to do this instead of POR15. There just wasn't enough to warrant the POR15, and no real rust for the POR to adhere to. So this made the job faster and easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ethobling Posted October 22, 2019 Share Posted October 22, 2019 Got the engine crossmember and frame horns cleaned up, primed, and painted today. Oh, and I got the areas where the rear spring hangers bolt on painted as well since they'd been banged up a bit in getting the old hangers off. Plus there were bare holes in the frame. Decided to just go with a good metal primer and semi-gloss black, both from rattle cans, to do this instead of POR15. There just wasn't enough to warrant the POR15, and no real rust for the POR to adhere to. So this made the job faster and easier. Skimmed through this thread and it's looking epic! Can't wait for the day when I can do stuff like that to Baruch. Your truck is gonna look sick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 22, 2019 Author Share Posted October 22, 2019 Skimmed through this thread and it's looking epic! Can't wait for the day when I can do stuff like that to Baruch. Your truck is gonna look sick. Thanks! It takes a lot of time and places to put things. I have to keep reminding my self that it is a hobby and is supposed to be fun, so don't rush it. On the other hand, it has to get done as I want to use the truck. So.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 22, 2019 Author Share Posted October 22, 2019 Thanks! It takes a lot of time and places to put things. I have to keep reminding my self that it is a hobby and is supposed to be fun, so don't rush it. On the other hand, it has to get done as I want to use the truck. So.... I've been working on my list of stuff to order, like ball joints and wheel bearings. But I wanted to get something tangible done today so grabbed the engine perches and the 1/2" fastener assortment and started installing them. As it turned out I didn't have enough of the 1/2" x 1" G8 fasteners, so I put them in with what I had and will go back and replace them and torque things up when I get the right ones. Here they are from below. Think the driver's side one has enough fasteners? When I got the truck the driver's side only had two fasteners to the crossmember, and they weren't tight. And the ones to the frame were wonky. And they were small. All are being upgraded to 1/2" G8. And here's a before and after. Can you figure out what changed? Which do you like better? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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