Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

.... Speaking of springs, I've been doing some reading and I'm not as convinced now that I need V-Code springs. Would some of y'all read through this thread on Powerstroke Nation, please? They seem to really like the U-codes, even with the diesel engine.

I skimmed through it. It looks to be consistent with what I've read before: the U code springs for the (lighter) gas version of the (heavier) SuperDuty work well on the (lighter) '80 - '97 trucks with the (heavier) diesel. You have the lighter 460, but a heavier bumper and winch. I'd guess that puts you a little heavier than a diesel with stock bumper and no winch, so you are sort of in a no-man's land. But I don't thik you're that far out of the norm (stock '80 - '97 with a diesel being the high end of what I'm calling the norm). Which is why I was thinking I'd start with U code springs if I were in your position.

And for what it's worth, "Bradbuilt" from that forum is "Diesel_Brad" on FTE. Same guy, different screen name.

I thought "Bradbuilt" wrote in a familiar way, so had wondered that. In fact, I scrolled back up to see who had written the post, expecting to see "Diesel Brad". Good to know as I know what to think of what he says.

Anyway, I don't want a lot of lift, so am happy to have the springs bend a bit and drop the front. As you pointed out, any load I carry will mostly be on the rear. In fact, if I ever get that bumper and move the spare to it that'll actually take some weight off the front.

Ok, I'm back to planning to try the U-codes. I can't get hurt as I can swap them and I already have them.

[Gary Lewis]

I thought "Bradbuilt" wrote in a familiar way, so had wondered that. In fact, I scrolled back up to see who had written the post, expecting to see "Diesel Brad". Good to know as I know what to think of what he says.

Anyway, I don't want a lot of lift, so am happy to have the springs bend a bit and drop the front. As you pointed out, any load I carry will mostly be on the rear. In fact, if I ever get that bumper and move the spare to it that'll actually take some weight off the front.

Ok, I'm back to planning to try the U-codes. I can't get hurt as I can swap them and I already have them.

Mid-day update: Nada. Got the socket and got the spindle nut off on Wednesday, but today I've been beating my head and everything else available on the spindles to get them off. No dice. Heated them, soaked them w/PB Blaster, used an air chisel, and on and on.

But this thread on FTE has given me hope, so I'm off to get a slide hammer and spindle adapter after lunch. Not sure if it is daylight or another locomotive, but there's light in the tunnel.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Mid-day update: Nada. Got the socket and got the spindle nut off on Wednesday, but today I've been beating my head and everything else available on the spindles to get them off. No dice. Heated them, soaked them w/PB Blaster, used an air chisel, and on and on.

But this thread on FTE has given me hope, so I'm off to get a slide hammer and spindle adapter after lunch. Not sure if it is daylight or another locomotive, but there's light in the tunnel.

You have a lathe. Why not make a spindle puller attachment to keep in your box?

Might be good for a project or to loan at the GTG.

Oh, good luck. They can be a bear when they've been on for decades.

[Gary Lewis]

You have a lathe. Why not make a spindle puller attachment to keep in your box?

Might be good for a project or to loan at the GTG.

Oh, good luck. They can be a bear when they've been on for decades.

I'm not sure I'd want to tackle that on the lathe. I've never done any internal thread chasing, only external, so making the adapter would be a pain. However, if I had a spare spindle nut then I could weld it to a tube and make the adapter. But, spindle nuts like the rounded one I have show for over $50, so I think I'll rent the puller.

And, I'm sure I'm going to need all the luck I can get. They look like they've taken up permanent residence in those knuckles.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'm not sure I'd want to tackle that on the lathe. I've never done any internal thread chasing, only external, so making the adapter would be a pain. However, if I had a spare spindle nut then I could weld it to a tube and make the adapter. But, spindle nuts like the rounded one I have show for over $50, so I think I'll rent the puller.

And, I'm sure I'm going to need all the luck I can get. They look like they've taken up permanent residence in those knuckles.

I didn't realize that you were unfamiliar with internal threading.

I hope you have a big morgan nokker..

While the air chisel can help be careful you don't come close to an edge and start peening it tighter.

[Nothing Special]

I'm not sure I'd want to tackle that on the lathe. I've never done any internal thread chasing, only external, so making the adapter would be a pain. However, if I had a spare spindle nut then I could weld it to a tube and make the adapter. But, spindle nuts like the rounded one I have show for over $50, so I think I'll rent the puller.

And, I'm sure I'm going to need all the luck I can get. They look like they've taken up permanent residence in those knuckles.

The first time I tried to get spindles off (it was on my '85 F-250) I couldn't get them to budge. I didn't know about the slide hammer approach, so I had to "get crafty on it." I took a piece of 3/8" mild steel plate and bored a hole in it that was a fairly close fit over the spindle threads. Then I put some stand-offs between the plate and some solid points on the knuckle (one on each side of center, I used deep-well sockets) and tightened a spindle nut down as tight as I could with a breaker bar (no hammering or cheater bar or anything). Then I took a big hammer and whacked the plate a couple times where each stand-off was. Then I could get another degree or two on the spindle nut with the breaker bar. I just kept repeating that until the spindle came out.

It wasn't very difficult (once I had the hole bored in the plate) and it was very effective (I've used the same plate on several more front ends since then, always successfully). It's not all that fast, but you can tell you are making progress as you keep nudging the spindle nut farther each time. The biggest downside is that the standoffs do end up bending the dust shield a fair amount. It didn't hurt the usability of the dust shields, and it was nothing that bothered me. But I know you care about a lot of the details more than I do.

If I were you I'd still try the slide hammer first. But this is another possibility.

[Gary Lewis]

The first time I tried to get spindles off (it was on my '85 F-250) I couldn't get them to budge. I didn't know about the slide hammer approach, so I had to "get crafty on it." I took a piece of 3/8" mild steel plate and bored a hole in it that was a fairly close fit over the spindle threads. Then I put some stand-offs between the plate and some solid points on the knuckle (one on each side of center, I used deep-well sockets) and tightened a spindle nut down as tight as I could with a breaker bar (no hammering or cheater bar or anything). Then I took a big hammer and whacked the plate a couple times where each stand-off was. Then I could get another degree or two on the spindle nut with the breaker bar. I just kept repeating that until the spindle came out.

It wasn't very difficult (once I had the hole bored in the plate) and it was very effective (I've used the same plate on several more front ends since then, always successfully). It's not all that fast, but you can tell you are making progress as you keep nudging the spindle nut farther each time. The biggest downside is that the standoffs do end up bending the dust shield a fair amount. It didn't hurt the usability of the dust shields, and it was nothing that bothered me. But I know you care about a lot of the details more than I do.

If I were you I'd still try the slide hammer first. But this is another possibility.

Jim - I only used the air chisel under the flange, not anywhere that would cause peening.

Bob - That's an interesting approach. I hope I don't have to use it, but I will if the slide hammer doesn't do it.

I'm about to head out the door, stop by the church building and talk with our minister, go to O'Reilly's to get the puller, and then to the dentist. Hopefully I'll get home in plenty of time to try the puller today and report back.......

[1986F150Six]

Jim - I only used the air chisel under the flange, not anywhere that would cause peening.

Bob - That's an interesting approach. I hope I don't have to use it, but I will if the slide hammer doesn't do it.

I'm about to head out the door, stop by the church building and talk with our minister, go to O'Reilly's to get the puller, and then to the dentist. Hopefully I'll get home in plenty of time to try the puller today and report back.......

"I'm about to head out the door, stop by the church building and talk with our minister, go to O'Reilly's to get the puller, and then to the dentist. Hopefully I'll get home in plenty of time to try the puller today and report back....... "

Hope the dentist is not a "puller"!

[Gary Lewis]

"I'm about to head out the door, stop by the church building and talk with our minister, go to O'Reilly's to get the puller, and then to the dentist. Hopefully I'll get home in plenty of time to try the puller today and report back....... "

Hope the dentist is not a "puller"!

I'm baaaaack! And the bad news is that the parts store doesn't have the adapter nor can they get it. So, I'm gonna try Plan B(ob).

And, the tooth is cracked. So, Monday at 8 am I'll be back to have root canal and a crown.

As for the good news, I'm not sure there was any.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'm baaaaack! And the bad news is that the parts store doesn't have the adapter nor can they get it. So, I'm gonna try Plan B(ob).

And, the tooth is cracked. So, Monday at 8 am I'll be back to have root canal and a crown.

As for the good news, I'm not sure there was any.

Sorry about that.

Best of luck with Bob's method.

Sounds like a good backup plan.