Gary Lewis Posted June 18 Author Share Posted June 18 I used my Milwaukee Hole Dozer saw kit and it made perfect round holes in the carpet, both in areas with / without padding. I used a sharp blade first to cut/locate the center where the hole needed to be and the hole saw bit registered with the prior cut. I've not tried using a hole saw, but this time all I needed was a slit. Had 2 RCA cables, a remote turn-on wire, and a power wire to get through. Worked out nicely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 21 Author Share Posted June 21 I've not tried using a hole saw, but this time all I needed was a slit. Had 2 RCA cables, a remote turn-on wire, and a power wire to get through. Worked out nicely. I've been overlooking the power wire for the clutch safety switch bypass module, but found it today. And I added the 4500 RPM tach that David/1986F150Six sent me to the cluster. I never rev the 460 above about 4500 so that is a very good fit. Thanks, David! On the left is a comparison of the original 6000 RPM tach, painted with Testor's Fluorescent Orange paint vs the NOS tach David sent. The NOS orange is slightly lighter than the Testor's orange, so I painted the tach with two coats of Testor's, as shown on the right. For some reason it still looks a bit lighter but maybe it'll darken as it dries? Anyway, I got the cluster installed in the truck but now have the instrument bezel, the aftermarket gauges, the collar around the steering column, etc to install. Maybe I'll get that done tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 22 Author Share Posted June 22 I've been overlooking the power wire for the clutch safety switch bypass module, but found it today. And I added the 4500 RPM tach that David/1986F150Six sent me to the cluster. I never rev the 460 above about 4500 so that is a very good fit. Thanks, David! On the left is a comparison of the original 6000 RPM tach, painted with Testor's Fluorescent Orange paint vs the NOS tach David sent. The NOS orange is slightly lighter than the Testor's orange, so I painted the tach with two coats of Testor's, as shown on the right. For some reason it still looks a bit lighter but maybe it'll darken as it dries? Anyway, I got the cluster installed in the truck but now have the instrument bezel, the aftermarket gauges, the collar around the steering column, etc to install. Maybe I'll get that done tomorrow. Other than the O2 sensor on the AFR meter, the truck is back together. And I hope to finish that tomorrow. But it was together enough today to check out the subwoofer. All I can say is WOW!!!! What a major difference! Scott said "The sub really helps round the two door speakers out to my ears." He must have better door speakers than I have 'cause the sub adds several more instruments to the music in Big Blue. Man, does it make a difference! When I initially fired the system up it was rattling our chairs, but I found that I had Extended Bass on the #2 position, and when I turned that off things settled down nicely. Then I started playing with the low-pass filter and discovered that the 120 hertz setting is by far the best. If I turn it to 100 some sound goes away and at 80 even more disappears. So 120 it is. Then I listened to several songs I know well and heard things I've not heard before. I'm a happy camper! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted June 23 Share Posted June 23 Other than the O2 sensor on the AFR meter, the truck is back together. And I hope to finish that tomorrow. But it was together enough today to check out the subwoofer. All I can say is WOW!!!! What a major difference! Scott said "The sub really helps round the two door speakers out to my ears." He must have better door speakers than I have 'cause the sub adds several more instruments to the music in Big Blue. Man, does it make a difference! When I initially fired the system up it was rattling our chairs, but I found that I had Extended Bass on the #2 position, and when I turned that off things settled down nicely. Then I started playing with the low-pass filter and discovered that the 120 hertz setting is by far the best. If I turn it to 100 some sound goes away and at 80 even more disappears. So 120 it is. Then I listened to several songs I know well and heard things I've not heard before. I'm a happy camper! Ok Gary, you convinced me that this Sub thing is worth the effort. I was supposing that it was strictly for the very low frequencies, but seems that it can improve the whole listening experience. But even my radio has the Sub output, I cannot go that way before I will have replaced the 1G with my new 3G. And I am still waiting for Bob’s ammeter/voltmeter to proceed with the swap… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted June 23 Share Posted June 23 Other than the O2 sensor on the AFR meter, the truck is back together. And I hope to finish that tomorrow. But it was together enough today to check out the subwoofer. All I can say is WOW!!!! What a major difference! Scott said "The sub really helps round the two door speakers out to my ears." He must have better door speakers than I have 'cause the sub adds several more instruments to the music in Big Blue. Man, does it make a difference! When I initially fired the system up it was rattling our chairs, but I found that I had Extended Bass on the #2 position, and when I turned that off things settled down nicely. Then I started playing with the low-pass filter and discovered that the 120 hertz setting is by far the best. If I turn it to 100 some sound goes away and at 80 even more disappears. So 120 it is. Then I listened to several songs I know well and heard things I've not heard before. I'm a happy camper! Ok Gary, you convinced me that this Sub thing is worth the effort. I was supposing that it was strictly for the very low frequencies, but seems that it can improve the whole listening experience. But even my radio has the Sub output, I cannot go that way before I will have replaced the 1G with my new 3G. And I am still waiting for Bob’s ammeter/voltmeter to proceed with the swap… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted June 23 Share Posted June 23 Ok Gary, you convinced me that this Sub thing is worth the effort. I was supposing that it was strictly for the very low frequencies, but seems that it can improve the whole listening experience. But even my radio has the Sub output, I cannot go that way before I will have replaced the 1G with my new 3G. And I am still waiting for Bob’s ammeter/voltmeter to proceed with the swap… Curious, my reply was sent twice. In french we say «jamais deux sans trois». Is there similar English expression? Good things come in three? So let’s go! Ok Gary, you convinced me that this Sub thing… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 23 Author Share Posted June 23 Curious, my reply was sent twice. In french we say «jamais deux sans trois». Is there similar English expression? Good things come in three? So let’s go! Ok Gary, you convinced me that this Sub thing… No, I don't think there's the same expression in English. But we do say things come in threes, although we are usually referring to bad things. As for the sub, I'm really amazed at how much it added to the sound. And, I don't think it is pulling much current. I turned the battery charger up to the 10A setting and ran the sound system for at least an hour and when I checked the battery voltage was almost to 15V. So the sound system wasn't pulling much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted June 23 Share Posted June 23 I've been overlooking the power wire for the clutch safety switch bypass module, but found it today. And I added the 4500 RPM tach that David/1986F150Six sent me to the cluster. I never rev the 460 above about 4500 so that is a very good fit. Thanks, David! On the left is a comparison of the original 6000 RPM tach, painted with Testor's Fluorescent Orange paint vs the NOS tach David sent. The NOS orange is slightly lighter than the Testor's orange, so I painted the tach with two coats of Testor's, as shown on the right. For some reason it still looks a bit lighter but maybe it'll darken as it dries? Anyway, I got the cluster installed in the truck but now have the instrument bezel, the aftermarket gauges, the collar around the steering column, etc to install. Maybe I'll get that done tomorrow. https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n155410/6000_%26_4500_RPM_Tachs.jpghttps://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n155410/4500_RPM_Tach_Installed_%26_Painted.jpg The tach looks good, Gary! I am glad that it has a new home in Big Blue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 23 Author Share Posted June 23 I've been overlooking the power wire for the clutch safety switch bypass module, but found it today. And I added the 4500 RPM tach that David/1986F150Six sent me to the cluster. I never rev the 460 above about 4500 so that is a very good fit. Thanks, David! On the left is a comparison of the original 6000 RPM tach, painted with Testor's Fluorescent Orange paint vs the NOS tach David sent. The NOS orange is slightly lighter than the Testor's orange, so I painted the tach with two coats of Testor's, as shown on the right. For some reason it still looks a bit lighter but maybe it'll darken as it dries? Anyway, I got the cluster installed in the truck but now have the instrument bezel, the aftermarket gauges, the collar around the steering column, etc to install. Maybe I'll get that done tomorrow. https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n155410/6000_%26_4500_RPM_Tachs.jpghttps://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n155410/4500_RPM_Tach_Installed_%26_Painted.jpg The tach looks good, Gary! I am glad that it has a new home in Big Blue. Thanks again, David! I appreciate it and will certainly enjoy it. Hope to start the truck this afternoon and will report on how responsive and accurate the tach is. The old one showed about 500 at idle when I know the ECU is keeping it at 640. Our church has a visit to the nursing home this afternoon at 3:30, so I have just a bit of time prior to that after church. I hope to get the new O2 sensor for the AFR meter calibrated and installed during that time, at which point I can start it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 23 Author Share Posted June 23 Thanks again, David! I appreciate it and will certainly enjoy it. Hope to start the truck this afternoon and will report on how responsive and accurate the tach is. The old one showed about 500 at idle when I know the ECU is keeping it at 640. Our church has a visit to the nursing home this afternoon at 3:30, so I have just a bit of time prior to that after church. I hope to get the new O2 sensor for the AFR meter calibrated and installed during that time, at which point I can start it up. Calibrating the O2 sensor was interesting. You put power to the meter with no sensor connected and it'll show E2. Then you power off, connect the sensor with it laying in free air, and power back on. It'll go through its calibration routine and then indicate 22.4:1 AFR, which means it is calibrated. But getting power to the meter requires either starting the engine, pulling in the relay another way, or removing the relay and jumping across it. I opted to pull in the relay by disconnecting the W/Bk stator wire at the connector between the alternator and the fender liner and applying 12v. That let me calibrate the sensor and then I installed it. Started the truck up and found that the AFR meter works but the "stock" voltmeter, meaning the one in the gauge cluster that Rocketman modified, doesn't. So obviously the relay is getting pulled in by the stator circuit but the signal isn't getting to the voltmeter. I'm guessing that's because I didn't get the connector clicked into the gauge cluster all the way - power and ground to the voltmeter are on the very end of the connector. And while it is a huge pain to take the cluster out, I may be able to get to it by taking the dash pad/cover off. At least that's what it looks like when checking out the spare dash I have in the attic. So I'll give that a try tomorrow. But back the AFR meter, it rebooted several times when I blipped the throttle. That indicates that maybe the RPM dropped so low that the output of the stator wire is letting the relay drop out. I checked that relay and on straight DC it dropped out at 5.15 volts, but I found another that drops out at 4.75 volts. I put that in and the few blips I did didn't cause the meter to drop out. But we will take the truck on an outing in a bit and I'll find out then. And the tach works great! Very smooth and the idle is more accurate. Thanks again, David! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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