grumpin Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 Time for an update. On Monday (this is Friday) I realized that the connection to power for the AFR gauge is up behind the instrument cluster. So I got the dash pretty well apart, including removing the AFR gauge and clutch bypass switch bezel from the instrument bezel. And I got the clutch bypass switch module unwired and removed as someone hadn't put a connector on it. By then it was lunch time and I went in and found that Janey wasn't feeling well. Long story short, I rushed her to the ER and she had stents put in each of the three main arteries to the heart. She got to come home yesterday afternoon and we are slowly starting to figure out what is next, but we know that she has two months of 3 therapy sessions each week plus other doctors to visit, so things are going to be busy for a while. I mention that to explain why there hasn't been any progress on this and may not be for a while. But, I am thinking about it during the down time. And I've now come around to Jim's suggestion of using the R/O wire running to the voltmeter as the power source for the AFR gauge. The Wire Barn calculator says that even 20 gauge wire is adequate for the 3A draw of the Innovate gauge to 9' with just a 2% drop, and I think that wire is surely at least that big and the run is probably shorter than that. So since I'll be right there with the dash apart I'll probably use that wire to simplify things. Sorry to hear about Janey. I hope she gets well soon. Prayers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 3 Author Share Posted May 3 Sorry to hear about Janey. I hope she gets well soon. Prayers! Thanks, Dane. In a way this is a blessing in disguise. She has Sjogren's and/or Lupus, but the cardiologist thinks the heart has been a factor in that and now that the problems have been resolved those symptoms should lessen. Plus he's amazed she could even function with the blockage she had, so now should have much more energy. However, she's not "there" yet and the prayers are very welcome. This morning her BP was 90/44, which is a big change from the 140/X she used to have and her body hasn't adjusted. So there will be a lot of adjusting and learning. I saw a meme the other day that said: Hello darkness, my old friend I've stood up too fast again. I think we now understand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 7 Author Share Posted May 7 Thanks, Dane. In a way this is a blessing in disguise. She has Sjogren's and/or Lupus, but the cardiologist thinks the heart has been a factor in that and now that the problems have been resolved those symptoms should lessen. Plus he's amazed she could even function with the blockage she had, so now should have much more energy. However, she's not "there" yet and the prayers are very welcome. This morning her BP was 90/44, which is a big change from the 140/X she used to have and her body hasn't adjusted. So there will be a lot of adjusting and learning. I saw a meme the other day that said: Hello darkness, my old friend I've stood up too fast again. I think we now understand. Time for an update - the dash is APART! The instrument bezel had to come off to get the instrument cluster out so I could both see behind it to find where the AFR meter's power wire went and to get to C208A to tie into the R/O wire from the relay. But to get the instrument bezel off the AFR meter, and the associated clutch safety bypass switch, has to come off. As do the aftermarket gauges. But then I found that the AFR meter's power wire went up under the dash cover, so off that came. And sure enough that wire went over to Mission Control to get switched power, so out came the radio I just installed as well as the Mission Control switches. As it turns out this is going to be a simple wiring change. Yes, really. All I have to do is to snip the power wire off near Mission Control and re-route it to C208A and tie into the R/O wire there by popping Pin 8 out and soldering the connection. Pop the pin back in, reinstall the radio & Mission control, add a dash cover, add a gauge cluster with the fun C208A connector and speedo cable, lay the instrument bezel in and add the aftermarket & AFR gauges, wire up the clutch switch bypass (maybe adding a connector this time to make it easier), add a couple of knobs, put the plastic cuff around the steering column and add the vacuum gauge, then bring the trim cover up from the bottom, install 37.5 screws, and Bob's your uncle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted May 8 Share Posted May 8 Time for an update - the dash is APART! The instrument bezel had to come off to get the instrument cluster out so I could both see behind it to find where the AFR meter's power wire went and to get to C208A to tie into the R/O wire from the relay. But to get the instrument bezel off the AFR meter, and the associated clutch safety bypass switch, has to come off. As do the aftermarket gauges. But then I found that the AFR meter's power wire went up under the dash cover, so off that came. And sure enough that wire went over to Mission Control to get switched power, so out came the radio I just installed as well as the Mission Control switches. As it turns out this is going to be a simple wiring change. Yes, really. All I have to do is to snip the power wire off near Mission Control and re-route it to C208A and tie into the R/O wire there by popping Pin 8 out and soldering the connection. Pop the pin back in, reinstall the radio & Mission control, add a dash cover, add a gauge cluster with the fun C208A connector and speedo cable, lay the instrument bezel in and add the aftermarket & AFR gauges, wire up the clutch switch bypass (maybe adding a connector this time to make it easier), add a couple of knobs, put the plastic cuff around the steering column and add the vacuum gauge, then bring the trim cover up from the bottom, install 37.5 screws, and Bob's your uncle. Easy fix! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 8 Author Share Posted May 8 Easy fix! The fix is easy. But getting it all back together is a pain. The idiot that designed this ought to have his head examined. But, truth be told, when I got the new Sony in I realized that I should have adjusted the protrusion of the rear support as it wasn't going into where it was supposed to go. Still, it was solid so I was going to live with it. Now that it is out, again, I'll adjust it correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted May 8 Share Posted May 8 The fix is easy. But getting it all back together is a pain. The idiot that designed this ought to have his head examined. But, truth be told, when I got the new Sony in I realized that I should have adjusted the protrusion of the rear support as it wasn't going into where it was supposed to go. Still, it was solid so I was going to live with it. Now that it is out, again, I'll adjust it correctly. Any picts of this controlled atomic airburst? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 8 Author Share Posted May 8 Any picts of this controlled atomic airburst? I'll try to post one this afternoon. Janey has an appointment this morning, but we should be back in time before class tonight. In jest I outlined the order in which most of it goes back together. However, I had the dash cover going back on fairly early and I'm rethinking that. I wonder if it is possible to see the rear support for the radio down through there with the cover off? Once upon a time I was able to slide my hand up from the bottom and guide the rubber-tipped stud into the support, but that didn't work the other day, although maybe I didn't try hard enough. Anyway, the radio doesn't appear to be going back as far as it should so I fear the stud missed the hole in the mount. Man, there's so much stuff in this dash! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 8 Author Share Posted May 8 I'll try to post one this afternoon. Janey has an appointment this morning, but we should be back in time before class tonight. In jest I outlined the order in which most of it goes back together. However, I had the dash cover going back on fairly early and I'm rethinking that. I wonder if it is possible to see the rear support for the radio down through there with the cover off? Once upon a time I was able to slide my hand up from the bottom and guide the rubber-tipped stud into the support, but that didn't work the other day, although maybe I didn't try hard enough. Anyway, the radio doesn't appear to be going back as far as it should so I fear the stud missed the hole in the mount. Man, there's so much stuff in this dash! Jeff - You asked: Starting near, you can see the 4 connectors to the cluster hanging out of the dash: Ewissions; speedo; C208A; and 4WD indicator. Above that with the dash cover off you can see the many cables, lots of which I've added like to the security system, seen below the speaker mount, and the ignition kill relay in the far distance. Seen through the steering wheel is Mission Control with its 6 switches and lots of associated wiring. Below the switches is the Sony DSX-GS80 radio I just replaced. Below the steering column itself you can see the aftermarket gauges. Directly below them is the Innovate MTX-L+ AFR gauge, and directly below that is the vacuum gauge that mounts on that plastic cuff that covers the steering column - shown to the right of the vacuum gauge. Directly below the cuff is the box that houses the clutch safety switch bypass module. And hanging from the steering column near its mount is the MeterMatch module that adapts the output of the 1996 sending units to the Bullnose gauge. All of that tucks nicely into the dash, but requires a bit of patience to get there - without rattling. But the last round I was "there" so let's hope I can do it again. And all of this is so I can move the power wire to the AFR meter from Mission Control to C208A. Easy peasy - now that I'm in that far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 8 Author Share Posted May 8 Time for an update. On Monday (this is Friday) I realized that the connection to power for the AFR gauge is up behind the instrument cluster. So I got the dash pretty well apart, including removing the AFR gauge and clutch bypass switch bezel from the instrument bezel. And I got the clutch bypass switch module unwired and removed as someone hadn't put a connector on it. By then it was lunch time and I went in and found that Janey wasn't feeling well. Long story short, I rushed her to the ER and she had stents put in each of the three main arteries to the heart. She got to come home yesterday afternoon and we are slowly starting to figure out what is next, but we know that she has two months of 3 therapy sessions each week plus other doctors to visit, so things are going to be busy for a while. I mention that to explain why there hasn't been any progress on this and may not be for a while. But, I am thinking about it during the down time. And I've now come around to Jim's suggestion of using the R/O wire running to the voltmeter as the power source for the AFR gauge. The Wire Barn calculator says that even 20 gauge wire is adequate for the 3A draw of the Innovate gauge to 9' with just a 2% drop, and I think that wire is surely at least that big and the run is probably shorter than that. So since I'll be right there with the dash apart I'll probably use that wire to simplify things. And an update on that wiring. It dawned on me that I have a C208A connector on the work table so I checked the R/O wire - 16ga. And I also have a full wiring harness laying there so I measured from C610 out by where the regulator would have gone to C208A going into the cluster - 6'. Innovate says that the current draw of the MTX-L+ is 3 amps, and the Wirebarn calculator says that there will be a .1V drop across that 6' run. So I doubt I'll even be able to see the voltmeter flicker when the heater in the O2 sensor kicks on. Good idea, Jim! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 8 Author Share Posted May 8 And an update on that wiring. It dawned on me that I have a C208A connector on the work table so I checked the R/O wire - 16ga. And I also have a full wiring harness laying there so I measured from C610 out by where the regulator would have gone to C208A going into the cluster - 6'. Innovate says that the current draw of the MTX-L+ is 3 amps, and the Wirebarn calculator says that there will be a .1V drop across that 6' run. So I doubt I'll even be able to see the voltmeter flicker when the heater in the O2 sensor kicks on. Good idea, Jim! Question for y'all. I've been redrawing the schematic for the passenger's side power distribution box to change to triggering the Engine On (was Key On) relay from key-on power to stator power. And in the course of that I've found that I've been powering the coil of the Blower Motor Ground relay with the output of the Key On relay. But now that it is really Engine On and the relay won't close until the alternator spins there'd be no ground for the blower fan until then. I think it would be better to power the Blower Motor Ground relay via the key on circuit so the fan will run when the key is turned on. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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