Big Blue's Transformation

[1986F150Six]

Thanks, Dane.

And, speaking of powder coating, I had a thought as the paint on the blocks was wet - powder would stick to that wet paint. So I painted yesterday's spacer and then hit it with powder. That's it above the painted blocks. Didn't turn out all that well as it has goosebumps that are hollow. Apparently the paint came up in a bubble and the powder cured on top of it.

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n122546/Painted_Jack_Mounting_Blocks_-_%26_1_PCd.jpg

Nothing ventured, nothing gained... It took 2,774 attempts to arrive at the bamboo filament that made Edison's light bulbs a commercial success.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks, Dane.

And, speaking of powder coating, I had a thought as the paint on the blocks was wet - powder would stick to that wet paint. So I painted yesterday's spacer and then hit it with powder. That's it above the painted blocks. Didn't turn out all that well as it has goosebumps that are hollow. Apparently the paint came up in a bubble and the powder cured on top of it.

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n122546/Painted_Jack_Mounting_Blocks_-_%26_1_PCd.jpg

Nothing ventured, nothing gained... It took 2,774 attempts to arrive at the bamboo filament that made Edison's light bulbs a commercial success.

Well, I don't think powder-coated wood products are going to be as popular as light bulbs so I doubt I'll try that many times. But it didn't cost much, so it was worth it.

I forgot the spacer for the center mount. I was using a piece of pressed board that obviously wouldn't survive moisture. So I milled a piece of wood down to size, drilled it for the stud, counter-bored it to recess the nut and washer, and painted it. I'll get a pic of it tomorrow.

Speaking of tomorrow, I should be able to put the whole thing together then. I just need to figure out how long each stud needs to be, cut them, and then put it together. And take pictures along the way.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well, I don't think powder-coated wood products are going to be as popular as light bulbs so I doubt I'll try that many times. But it didn't cost much, so it was worth it.

I forgot the spacer for the center mount. I was using a piece of pressed board that obviously wouldn't survive moisture. So I milled a piece of wood down to size, drilled it for the stud, counter-bored it to recess the nut and washer, and painted it. I'll get a pic of it tomorrow.

Speaking of tomorrow, I should be able to put the whole thing together then. I just need to figure out how long each stud needs to be, cut them, and then put it together. And take pictures along the way.

Interesting experiment.

I think there's either solvent left in the paint or too much air in the pores of the wood.

Be certain you use plenty of anti-sieze with stainless on stainless.

[Gary Lewis]

Interesting experiment.

I think there's either solvent left in the paint or too much air in the pores of the wood.

Be certain you use plenty of anti-sieze with stainless on stainless.

Air or stuff in the pores was my guess. I've had similar results with aluminum that I didn't wash with brake cleaner, heat in the oven at 450 for an hour, and wash again. Stuff seems to stay in the pores and then vaporize when heated to 400 to melt the powder, and that blows the powder off and leaves a hole in the coating.

In this case it looks like the membrane of paint held the powder but a blister formed. So I guess that it might be possible to powder coat wood if you treat it like I do aluminum. However, I've read that charring starts at 450 for wood, so I'd probably stay at 400 to pre-heat it.

But I really didn't get a lot of powder to stick, so the coating is probably more paint than powder. And, oddly enough, it came out flat when the same powder comes out glossy on other things. I'm not at all sure I understand why that happened. But, it was a fun try anyway.

And thanks for the reminder on the anti-seize. I'm not sure that going with stainless for everything but the nuts on the backing plates was a good idea. I really don't want any of it to seize, but I also don't want to have to coat the ends of the studs with anti-seize each time I use the jack. However, since the wingnuts are closed perhaps they'll retain enough anti-seize in their threads when removed to play nicely with the studs for several goes.

I'm also debating how to put this together. I think I want to use blue Loctite on the end of the studs going into the backing plates as I don't want anything to come loose. But I'm worried that the seam sealer might not hold the backing plates well enough to prevent them from turning if/when I want to take the spacers off - like if Tulsa Plastics comes through with acetal. So, would the compression of the wood be enough to prevent the studs from turning in the backing plates?

[Nothing Special]

Air or stuff in the pores was my guess. I've had similar results with aluminum that I didn't wash with brake cleaner, heat in the oven at 450 for an hour, and wash again. Stuff seems to stay in the pores and then vaporize when heated to 400 to melt the powder, and that blows the powder off and leaves a hole in the coating.

In this case it looks like the membrane of paint held the powder but a blister formed. So I guess that it might be possible to powder coat wood if you treat it like I do aluminum. However, I've read that charring starts at 450 for wood, so I'd probably stay at 400 to pre-heat it.

But I really didn't get a lot of powder to stick, so the coating is probably more paint than powder. And, oddly enough, it came out flat when the same powder comes out glossy on other things. I'm not at all sure I understand why that happened. But, it was a fun try anyway.

And thanks for the reminder on the anti-seize. I'm not sure that going with stainless for everything but the nuts on the backing plates was a good idea. I really don't want any of it to seize, but I also don't want to have to coat the ends of the studs with anti-seize each time I use the jack. However, since the wingnuts are closed perhaps they'll retain enough anti-seize in their threads when removed to play nicely with the studs for several goes.

I'm also debating how to put this together. I think I want to use blue Loctite on the end of the studs going into the backing plates as I don't want anything to come loose. But I'm worried that the seam sealer might not hold the backing plates well enough to prevent them from turning if/when I want to take the spacers off - like if Tulsa Plastics comes through with acetal. So, would the compression of the wood be enough to prevent the studs from turning in the backing plates?

I used to use stainless bolts and nuts to hold the topper to my truck. But I gave up on that. Even with anti-seize I was getting galling and it was HARD to get them unscrewed at times. (Note that I wasn't necessarily being liberal with anti-seize every time I installed them. But the residual wasn't enough.)

Now I use stainless bolts but grade 8 nuts. I still use anti-seize, but I don't slather it on each time and I haven't had problems. And while grade 8 hardware isn't as corrosion-resistant as stainless, it's not bad.

Using stainless nuts and grade 8 bolts would work just as well, but in my case the bolts are more visible so I went that way.

[Gary Lewis]

I used to use stainless bolts and nuts to hold the topper to my truck. But I gave up on that. Even with anti-seize I was getting galling and it was HARD to get them unscrewed at times. (Note that I wasn't necessarily being liberal with anti-seize every time I installed them. But the residual wasn't enough.)

Now I use stainless bolts but grade 8 nuts. I still use anti-seize, but I don't slather it on each time and I haven't had problems. And while grade 8 hardware isn't as corrosion-resistant as stainless, it's not bad.

Using stainless nuts and grade 8 bolts would work just as well, but in my case the bolts are more visible so I went that way.

Thanks, Bob. Yes, I've had brand new stainless nuts gall on a new stainless bolt - and both were ruined.

I think instead of Loctite blue on the threads going into the backer plates I'm going to use Loctite 567 Thread Sealer. It is designed for use on stainless and says it is a "low strength" thread locker. That and the nyloc nut awa the compression of the wood should ensure the stud stays in but can be removed w/o excessive force.

And maybe use that on the stainless wingnuts as well. That would prevent galling, act as a thread locker, and stay in the nut.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

I used to use stainless bolts and nuts to hold the topper to my truck. But I gave up on that. Even with anti-seize I was getting galling and it was HARD to get them unscrewed at times. (Note that I wasn't necessarily being liberal with anti-seize every time I installed them. But the residual wasn't enough.)

Now I use stainless bolts but grade 8 nuts. I still use anti-seize, but I don't slather it on each time and I haven't had problems. And while grade 8 hardware isn't as corrosion-resistant as stainless, it's not bad.

Using stainless nuts and grade 8 bolts would work just as well, but in my case the bolts are more visible so I went that way.

I'd absolutely agree with you, Bob.

I like silicone grease with teflon over anti-sieze (more slippery, not messy)

But Gary is going to do things the way he will.

 

[kramttocs]

I'd absolutely agree with you, Bob.

I like silicone grease with teflon over anti-sieze (more slippery, not messy)

But Gary is going to do things the way he will.

I replaced all the bolts possible on the 86 with ARP stainless and used blue loctite in all except for a handful where I used the ARP goop. Had several that I had to remove and replace a few times for whatever reason and never had any issues. I read something about the loctite reacting with plastic so just a caution there to avoid drips/excessive application. Likely the same with the thread sealant product?

[Gary Lewis]

I replaced all the bolts possible on the 86 with ARP stainless and used blue loctite in all except for a handful where I used the ARP goop. Had several that I had to remove and replace a few times for whatever reason and never had any issues. I read something about the loctite reacting with plastic so just a caution there to avoid drips/excessive application. Likely the same with the thread sealant product?

Well, here are the final pics. It is finished.

But not quite how I'd planned as I realized that I needed to install the nyloc nut on the stud at the right depth, feed that through the spacer, and then screw that into the backing plate. So I put anti-seize on the stud to ensure the nut wouldn't seize, and that meant it was well lubed for the wingnuts. But I did use the thread sealant on the threads going into the backing plates - the PTF stuff and not blue. (I'll be careful of the liquid Loctite on plastic, Scott. Thanks.)

As for doing it my way, guilty as charged. But that is frequently predicated on what I have at hand. In this case I'd ordered the stainless all-thread, nyloc nuts, and wingnuts so I wanted to use them. And I don't have silicone grease with Teflon, but I do have anti-seize. If I had to do it over again I'd probably do it differently.

And, speaking of using things to-hand, in the left pic you can see an usual ratchet/socket combo that Janey got me several years ago. The sockets are hollow and the ratchet drives the outside of the sockets. So they really come in handy when working with studs or all-threads.

Anyway, the jack is solidly mounted but is easily retrieved when needed. I think I like it.

[grumpin]

Well, here are the final pics. It is finished.

But not quite how I'd planned as I realized that I needed to install the nyloc nut on the stud at the right depth, feed that through the spacer, and then screw that into the backing plate. So I put anti-seize on the stud to ensure the nut wouldn't seize, and that meant it was well lubed for the wingnuts. But I did use the thread sealant on the threads going into the backing plates - the PTF stuff and not blue. (I'll be careful of the liquid Loctite on plastic, Scott. Thanks.)

As for doing it my way, guilty as charged. But that is frequently predicated on what I have at hand. In this case I'd ordered the stainless all-thread, nyloc nuts, and wingnuts so I wanted to use them. And I don't have silicone grease with Teflon, but I do have anti-seize. If I had to do it over again I'd probably do it differently.

And, speaking of using things to-hand, in the left pic you can see an usual ratchet/socket combo that Janey got me several years ago. The sockets are hollow and the ratchet drives the outside of the sockets. So they really come in handy when working with studs or all-threads.

Anyway, the jack is solidly mounted but is easily retrieved when needed. I think I like it.

Nice! I like it.