Gary Lewis Posted March 7, 2022 Author Share Posted March 7, 2022 Bill - I'm thinking you are right. There's something missing that goes with that bracket. There has to be a way to hold the ECU to the bracket, and it isn't via the cover screws - the EEC-IV doesn't have cover screws. And neither of them have the flanges I was remembering - the flanges are on the III ECU. Here's a shot of the EEC-III, IV, and V ECU's left/right. And you were basically right, the IV and V have the almost the same dimensions, not including the connectors: EEC-IV: 6 1/8" W x 6 3/4" L x 1 9/16" thick EEC-V: 6 1/16" W x 6 7/8" L x 1 9/16" thick And for reference, here are the connectors, in the same order: As for mounting, here's an EEC-IV ECU laid in the 1990 kick panel bracket from Huck. It probably had a strap across it, but didn't when I got it. And, you can see the "spring thingies" I referenced last night, which are not springy at all and aren't of much use for what I want to do. So I'm coming around to your way of thinking. If I could find a complete 1985/6 bracket and strap, if that's what they used, then that should work nicely. Given that I'm going to ask in another thread if anyone has one, or at least has pictures thereof. I suppose I could buy that bracket on ebay and figure out how to strap the ECU in, but I'd sure like to find a complete unit with the strap. As posted in the thread Looking For An 85/85 ECU Bracket/Strap Combo Or Pictures Thereof, I'm completely confused as to what bracket should fit. So I made one. It isn't pretty, but it'll work. I still need to position it and then weld it to the dash brace. But here are a few pics. The flange on the end is angled such that the ECU wedges in. And then I'll need to create a bottom support, which will screw into the speed control mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 8, 2022 Author Share Posted March 8, 2022 As posted in the thread Looking For An 85/85 ECU Bracket/Strap Combo Or Pictures Thereof, I'm completely confused as to what bracket should fit. So I made one. It isn't pretty, but it'll work. I still need to position it and then weld it to the dash brace. But here are a few pics. The flange on the end is angled such that the ECU wedges in. And then I'll need to create a bottom support, which will screw into the speed control mount. I'm going to pause this project right here as we have other things going on for the moment. Perhaps in the interim someone will say they have a bracket & retainer I can buy? That would make this cleaner & easier. Anyone? http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/waving_orig.gif Do you have a complete bracket and strap/retainer for the ECU that mounts under the dash? From the snippet below I think that would be E5TZ 12A659-A. Right? If so it'll be marked either E5TE-12A659-AA or E6TF-12A659-AA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted March 14, 2022 Share Posted March 14, 2022 Only one pic today, but it is significant. All wiring to the truck's harness under the hood is done. In the pic you can see seven connectors: one that comes from the engine harness; one that goes to the fog and backup lights; one that goes through the inertia switch and thence to the tank selector relay; and four that go to connectors like C727 for the VSS signals, C321 for switched power from the W/LB H wire, C323 for the tach signal and 8-cylinder ground, & C325 for switched power from the R/LG wire as well as coolant temp and oil pressure feeds to the gauges. So the next step is to mount the ECU under the dash and determine how long the wire runs need to be. Then I can extend the ~3 dozen wires to the ECU. I LOVE these clean wiring. Did the same for Big Brother, wires well protected, easy to follow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted March 14, 2022 Share Posted March 14, 2022 It isn't pretty, but it'll work. Wow! Looks like manufactured one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 14, 2022 Author Share Posted March 14, 2022 It isn't pretty, but it'll work. Wow! Looks like manufactured one! Thanks, in both cases. But I’m not sure I’ll use that bracket. I’ve ordered a factory bracket and when it comes in I’ll see which I like best. The factory bracket puts the ECU against the firewall running left/right, and if it traps the ECU to secure it then that will be the easiest way to go - and the easiest approach to follow. And since I have another truck to do so am looking for repeatability. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 21, 2022 Author Share Posted March 21, 2022 Thanks, in both cases. But I’m not sure I’ll use that bracket. I’ve ordered a factory bracket and when it comes in I’ll see which I like best. The factory bracket puts the ECU against the firewall running left/right, and if it traps the ECU to secure it then that will be the easiest way to go - and the easiest approach to follow. And since I have another truck to do so am looking for repeatability. Just a bit of an update. I ordered 500' of #16 black wire today that I'll use to extend the wiring to the ECU. There will be the standard wire colors at both ends of each run so it'll be easy to tell what circuit is what, but there was no reasonable way to buy 4' of 40 different wire colors, so I went with black. After doing some reading on the Wiring Depot page entitled UNDERSTANDING THE TYPES OF AUTOMOTIVE WIRE I chose GPT wire. I was initially going to order from Scott's favorite vendor Waytek, whose price for 500' of WG16-0 Automotive Primary Wire, GPT Standard Wall, 16 Ga is $63.20. But then I discovered that they want $25.76 for shipping, which seemed a bit much. So I turned back to Wiring Depot and found that their price for 500' of black #16 GPT is $68.62 but shipping is free over $49. That seemed much more reasonable so I ordered that. However, I've had good luck with the shrink tubing I've ordered from Amazon, so ordered another of these kits: XHF 140 PCS 3/32" 1/8" 3/16" 1/4" 5/16" 3/8" Black 3:1 Waterproof Automotive Electrical Heat Shrink Tubing Kit Tubing Length 3.5" Marine Grade Adhesive Lined Tube Assortment, Insulation Sealing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 21, 2022 Share Posted March 21, 2022 Just a bit of an update. I ordered 500' of #16 black wire today that I'll use to extend the wiring to the ECU. There will be the standard wire colors at both ends of each run so it'll be easy to tell what circuit is what, but there was no reasonable way to buy 4' of 40 different wire colors, so I went with black. After doing some reading on the Wiring Depot page entitled UNDERSTANDING THE TYPES OF AUTOMOTIVE WIRE I chose GPT wire. I was initially going to order from Scott's favorite vendor Waytek, whose price for 500' of WG16-0 Automotive Primary Wire, GPT Standard Wall, 16 Ga is $63.20. But then I discovered that they want $25.76 for shipping, which seemed a bit much. So I turned back to Wiring Depot and found that their price for 500' of black #16 GPT is $68.62 but shipping is free over $49. That seemed much more reasonable so I ordered that. However, I've had good luck with the shrink tubing I've ordered from Amazon, so ordered another of these kits: XHF 140 PCS 3/32" 1/8" 3/16" 1/4" 5/16" 3/8" Black 3:1 Waterproof Automotive Electrical Heat Shrink Tubing Kit Tubing Length 3.5" Marine Grade Adhesive Lined Tube Assortment, Insulation Sealing. You know Gary, I was browsing Amazon recently and noticed how many label writers have compatible heat shrink tubing. (actually noticed my electrician pal Sal using one from Panuit a few years ago, but $$$$ ) There's shrink tube for Brother, Dymo, Epson, etc... beyond the really high buck commercial brands/models. Obviously you don't need to label your extensions to this ECU but something like that might come in handy working on Dad's truck or LS swapping the French truck you went to rescue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 21, 2022 Author Share Posted March 21, 2022 You know Gary, I was browsing Amazon recently and noticed how many label writers have compatible heat shrink tubing. (actually noticed my electrician pal Sal using one from Panuit a few years ago, but $$$$ ) There's shrink tube for Brother, Dymo, Epson, etc... beyond the really high buck commercial brands/models. Obviously you don't need to label your extensions to this ECU but something like that might come in handy working on Dad's truck or LS swapping the French truck you went to rescue. Oh wow! I didn't know that! Having a few minutes available at the moment I'm off to see if there is anything for my Brother P-touch CUBE Plus PT-P710BT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 21, 2022 Share Posted March 21, 2022 Oh wow! I didn't know that! Having a few minutes available at the moment I'm off to see if there is anything for my Brother P-touch CUBE Plus PT-P710BT. Note that widths listed are 1/2 the outer circumference, not the inside diameter.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 21, 2022 Author Share Posted March 21, 2022 Note that widths listed are 1/2 the outer circumference, not the inside diameter.... Man, I'm glad you said that. I was assuming ID. I was just watching their video, which I can't seen to share, and was thinking that I need to write down the sizes. Now I know I need to do that and figure out what I need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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