ebbsrig Posted June 5, 2019 Author Share Posted June 5, 2019 The 1356 has a bit different shift lever arrangement. Like the lever is up instead of down, or vice versa. And the linkage for them comes out of the side of the transmission bulge instead of through the transmission cover. Anyway, I'm told that you can adapt the link for an NP208 or BW1345 to the 1356, and I'll have to learn how as I have a 1356 in Dad's truck. But it isn't bolt-in. So you dodged a bullet. Or a pellet. On the u-joint, I've not used the crossover ones, but I've read about them. The linkage from the T18/BW1345 combo literally fell into place on the ZF5/BW1345. I even used the 1983's tranny tunnel access cover. The 4x4 shifter and ZF5 shifter sit in basically original T18/BW1345 spots. All I have to do is weld in a 2"x6" cover plate and I will be able to use the ZF5 shift boot and plate assembly. That job is currently being done by gorilla tape lol. The crossover u-joint I need is a Precision #459 Orielly's has them for $18. That beats the snot out of the $150 is I was looking at for the driveshaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 5, 2019 Share Posted June 5, 2019 The linkage from the T18/BW1345 combo literally fell into place on the ZF5/BW1345. I even used the 1983's tranny tunnel access cover. The 4x4 shifter and ZF5 shifter sit in basically original T18/BW1345 spots. All I have to do is weld in a 2"x6" cover plate and I will be able to use the ZF5 shift boot and plate assembly. That job is currently being done by gorilla tape lol. The crossover u-joint I need is a Precision #459 Orielly's has them for $18. That beats the snot out of the $150 is I was looking at for the driveshaft. I'm glad the linkage fit so well. It didn't on my ZF5 swap, and I had to make the linkage longer to put the lever in the proper position. How I did that is explained here: Driveline/Transfer Cases and on the Linkage tab and then the Adjustable Linkage tab. And I'm glad that the original transmission cover worked. Again, it didn't in my swap, but I'm happy for you. As for the u-joint, I'm thrilled for you on that one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebbsrig Posted June 11, 2019 Author Share Posted June 11, 2019 I'm glad the linkage fit so well. It didn't on my ZF5 swap, and I had to make the linkage longer to put the lever in the proper position. How I did that is explained here: Driveline/Transfer Cases and on the Linkage tab and then the Adjustable Linkage tab. And I'm glad that the original transmission cover worked. Again, it didn't in my swap, but I'm happy for you. As for the u-joint, I'm thrilled for you on that one. The zombie is back on the road. Got a wellness check Friday with the alignment man and having the rear end inspected. Got to make sure drive shaft is correct length and check out the posi clutches. I will post side by side pics to show the ride height change. On a concrete pad before and after measurements show a gain of 2 1/4". The over all stance might be a touch high in the front, I think I may pop in an extra leaf in the rear. Jury is still out on that one. I've got the factory 4" ish rear spacers, but If I ain't carefull I'll see saw the truck into a 6" lift and I'm not really about all that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 11, 2019 Share Posted June 11, 2019 The zombie is back on the road. Got a wellness check Friday with the alignment man and having the rear end inspected. Got to make sure drive shaft is correct length and check out the posi clutches. I will post side by side pics to show the ride height change. On a concrete pad before and after measurements show a gain of 2 1/4". The over all stance might be a touch high in the front, I think I may pop in an extra leaf in the rear. Jury is still out on that one. I've got the factory 4" ish rear spacers, but If I ain't carefull I'll see saw the truck into a 6" lift and I'm not really about all that. Yippee! So 2 1/4" with a D60 swap and stock F350 springs. Right? And I'm supposed to get another 1 1/2" with the SuperDuty springs and RSK. The front on Big Blue was already ~3 1/2" lower than the rear, so that should just about level it. But, I'm wanting to remove some leaves in the rear. So, maybe the U-Code springs in front won't be quite as high as the usual V-codes. Anyway, did you put a special eccentric in the ...... oh, wait. Does your D60 have king pins or ball joints? Mine has ball joints and I'm considering one of the fancy caster/camber eccentrics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebbsrig Posted June 11, 2019 Author Share Posted June 11, 2019 Yippee! So 2 1/4" with a D60 swap and stock F350 springs. Right? And I'm supposed to get another 1 1/2" with the SuperDuty springs and RSK. The front on Big Blue was already ~3 1/2" lower than the rear, so that should just about level it. But, I'm wanting to remove some leaves in the rear. So, maybe the U-Code springs in front won't be quite as high as the usual V-codes. Anyway, did you put a special eccentric in the ...... oh, wait. Does your D60 have king pins or ball joints? Mine has ball joints and I'm considering one of the fancy caster/camber eccentrics. Yep 2 1/4" with D60 and stock 350, 2 leaf, front springs. My Dana has king pins so no eccentrics. The main thing I am looking for from the alignment guy is tracking and square front to back. I already set the Toe in to 1/4" The zombie was a bit low in the front and, as I said, is now pretty level. I am a little concerned about the driveshaft being a touch too long but the guys down at Electric City Brake are good and will get me sorted. Another quick note, I have the donor truck's 4" factory rear spacers, but I used the 1983 zombie originals in the rear which are only about 2". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 11, 2019 Share Posted June 11, 2019 Yep 2 1/4" with D60 and stock 350, 2 leaf, front springs. My Dana has king pins so no eccentrics. The main thing I am looking for from the alignment guy is tracking and square front to back. I already set the Toe in to 1/4" The zombie was a bit low in the front and, as I said, is now pretty level. I am a little concerned about the driveshaft being a touch too long but the guys down at Electric City Brake are good and will get me sorted. Another quick note, I have the donor truck's 4" factory rear spacers, but I used the 1983 zombie originals in the rear which are only about 2". The track bar should have you properly located side-to-side. And with the spring shackles/brackets riveted to the frame and a center bolt on the springs I'd expect it to be positioned correctly. So, I'm curious to see what the guys say. But the D60's snout is longer, so I can see the driveshaft being too long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebbsrig Posted June 18, 2019 Author Share Posted June 18, 2019 The track bar should have you properly located side-to-side. And with the spring shackles/brackets riveted to the frame and a center bolt on the springs I'd expect it to be positioned correctly. So, I'm curious to see what the guys say. But the D60's snout is longer, so I can see the driveshaft being too long. Back from the alignment folks. They gave me an A+ on the install. Front to back and side to side axle alignment as well as Toe in were all good and did not need adjustment. Caster and camber were the same. The diff inspection was a mixed bag. Gears were great, preload within spec, but no Posi Traction despite what the tag claimed. I will be changing that in the near future. Have to decide L/S or Locker. I really prefer the road manners of an L/S, but I drive a lot of clay, gravel, and mud. Will mull that over. Got an interesting offer today. Buddy has a 1986 6.9 with Banks turbo. Engine was swapped with a professional built long block a few years ago. Solid cab, crap bed, bad transmission/clutch. He wants rid of it and knows what I've done to the zombie. Told me to make an offer. Tough one because he's a friend and I don't want to rook him on the deal but I don't want to send his kids to college on my dime either. To make matters worse I have the 100% T-18, flywheel out of the zombie sitting on my garage floor. I'm basically a cleanup on the flywheel and a clutch away from another daily driver with less than 60K on the motor. The wife will shoot me lol! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted June 18, 2019 Share Posted June 18, 2019 Back from the alignment folks. They gave me an A+ on the install. Front to back and side to side axle alignment as well as Toe in were all good and did not need adjustment. Caster and camber were the same. The diff inspection was a mixed bag. Gears were great, preload within spec, but no Posi Traction despite what the tag claimed. I will be changing that in the near future. Have to decide L/S or Locker. I really prefer the road manners of an L/S, but I drive a lot of clay, gravel, and mud. Will mull that over. Got an interesting offer today. Buddy has a 1986 6.9 with Banks turbo. Engine was swapped with a professional built long block a few years ago. Solid cab, crap bed, bad transmission/clutch. He wants rid of it and knows what I've done to the zombie. Told me to make an offer. Tough one because he's a friend and I don't want to rook him on the deal but I don't want to send his kids to college on my dime either. To make matters worse I have the 100% T-18, flywheel out of the zombie sitting on my garage floor. I'm basically a cleanup on the flywheel and a clutch away from another daily driver with less than 60K on the motor. The wife will shoot me lol! If you knew the alignment was good you could have saved money LOL. Good job none the less. If you do get that 6.9 truck I don't think the flywheels are the same as the 1 you have. Easy to find out is to look both of the trucks flywheels up and if the part numbers are the same you are good then. Cant help on the $$ to offer. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 18, 2019 Share Posted June 18, 2019 Back from the alignment folks. They gave me an A+ on the install. Front to back and side to side axle alignment as well as Toe in were all good and did not need adjustment. Caster and camber were the same. The diff inspection was a mixed bag. Gears were great, preload within spec, but no Posi Traction despite what the tag claimed. I will be changing that in the near future. Have to decide L/S or Locker. I really prefer the road manners of an L/S, but I drive a lot of clay, gravel, and mud. Will mull that over. Got an interesting offer today. Buddy has a 1986 6.9 with Banks turbo. Engine was swapped with a professional built long block a few years ago. Solid cab, crap bed, bad transmission/clutch. He wants rid of it and knows what I've done to the zombie. Told me to make an offer. Tough one because he's a friend and I don't want to rook him on the deal but I don't want to send his kids to college on my dime either. To make matters worse I have the 100% T-18, flywheel out of the zombie sitting on my garage floor. I'm basically a cleanup on the flywheel and a clutch away from another daily driver with less than 60K on the motor. The wife will shoot me lol! Excellent job on the Zombie. But, you can't pass the turbo'd IDI up!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted June 19, 2019 Share Posted June 19, 2019 Excellent job on the Zombie. But, you can't pass the turbo'd IDI up!!!! Ask your friend what is the least he can take and feel alright? He might surprise you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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