Jump to content
Bullnose Forums

460 mild performance build


Recommended Posts

The button has an alloy pellet (like solder, or woods metal) at its center.

If the solder melts out the head has overheated and the warranty is void.

Well, Bill has me interested in a wideband afr for this truck.

If I can adapt the Superduty Y-pipe to my carb exhaust manifolds I will have better scavenging AND a bung.

For now I'm going to ask for opinions and experience.

I personally prefer analog to digital gauges.

I think it asks less of my feeble processing power to glance at a needle and see if it is centered -or in the red- than observe a number and decide what that means.

Obviously response time and damping are also factors, but I know digital appliances have come a long way since my biases were set.

The Innovate MTX-AL with a black face and bezel is tickling my fancy right now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 103
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well, Bill has me interested in a wideband afr for this truck.

If I can adapt the Superduty Y-pipe to my carb exhaust manifolds I will have better scavenging AND a bung.

For now I'm going to ask for opinions and experience.

I personally prefer analog to digital gauges.

I think it asks less of my feeble processing power to glance at a needle and see if it is centered -or in the red- than observe a number and decide what that means.

Obviously response time and damping are also factors, but I know digital appliances have come a long way since my biases were set.

The Innovate MTX-AL with a black face and bezel is tickling my fancy right now.

I have the AEM Failsafe Wideband. It has boost/vacuum readout as well as AFR, and you can do either as the digital reoudout and the other as the “analog” dial.

It works pretty well, but it hasn’t always responded to my programming, which is done with a laptop. For instance, you can change where the dial is supposed to be red, where it should be orange, and where green. But last I tried to change that it ignored me.

But it works and seems accurate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the AEM Failsafe Wideband. It has boost/vacuum readout as well as AFR, and you can do either as the digital reoudout and the other as the “analog” dial.

It works pretty well, but it hasn’t always responded to my programming, which is done with a laptop. For instance, you can change where the dial is supposed to be red, where it should be orange, and where green. But last I tried to change that it ignored me.

But it works and seems accurate.

You know, I hadn't thought about having a vacuum gauge...... (insert light bulb emoji)

Surely there's no driving a built big block 4x4 truck "economically" but I do have plenty of unused vacuum ports.

I am kind of stumbling along with this trying to process the wealth of information Scott provides, collecting bits and pieces on zero budget, with no real facilities.

And as you said 'having some time to work on my own projects'

I do a lot of "charity work" for others that don't really need it free.

That is going to have to change while still helping those in need.

I should do as you have, and speak to the guru.

I didn't want to take his time until I got the block torn down.

Given how well that truck ran and the mileage, I figure I might get away with 0-0, no rod reconditioning and a simple bore cleanup.

but, you never know until you actually see it.

Building a 466 is going to be a lot simpler and cheaper than a stroker.

Anyway, the basic World Parts rebuild kit, block machining, and whatever cam kit Scott provides is about all the budget I have.

My priority now should be a warm and clean place to assemble it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You know, I hadn't thought about having a vacuum gauge...... (insert light bulb emoji)

Surely there's no driving a built big block 4x4 truck "economically" but I do have plenty of unused vacuum ports.

I am kind of stumbling along with this trying to process the wealth of information Scott provides, collecting bits and pieces on zero budget, with no real facilities.

And as you said 'having some time to work on my own projects'

I do a lot of "charity work" for others that don't really need it free.

That is going to have to change while still helping those in need.

I should do as you have, and speak to the guru.

I didn't want to take his time until I got the block torn down.

Given how well that truck ran and the mileage, I figure I might get away with 0-0, no rod reconditioning and a simple bore cleanup.

but, you never know until you actually see it.

Building a 466 is going to be a lot simpler and cheaper than a stroker.

Anyway, the basic World Parts rebuild kit, block machining, and whatever cam kit Scott provides is about all the budget I have.

My priority now should be a warm and clean place to assemble it.

Yeah, “big block” and “economy” don’t belong in the same sentence. But when you program that gauge so that anything less than 10” of vacuum turns it red you’ll quickly get a good idea of what your right foot is doing to your gas mileage.

And yes, warm and clean would be a big help on assembling an engine. But don’t low-ball the engine so much that you are disappointed in the end. The other one is still running, so maybe stretch the time a bit to get more money so you can “do it your way”?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, “big block” and “economy” don’t belong in the same sentence. But when you program that gauge so that anything less than 10” of vacuum turns it red you’ll quickly get a good idea of what your right foot is doing to your gas mileage.

And yes, warm and clean would be a big help on assembling an engine. But don’t low-ball the engine so much that you are disappointed in the end. The other one is still running, so maybe stretch the time a bit to get more money so you can “do it your way”?

After beefing up my stands.

IMG_20171110_110057.thumb.jpg.64d06ab51a69262e08ddcff2db80524e.jpg

I did a little gasket matching this morning.

IMG_20171111_072326.thumb.jpg.5399d4021d00c18a99c4c2e1e30d70cc.jpg

IMG_20171111_072252.jpg.ee7432ee961dcd72e905e64bffcf9db9.jpg

I'm needing a way to pull the filings through the port and illuminate the deeper recesses.

Going to work on a vacuum adapter today. I'll

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After beefing up my stands.

I did a little gasket matching this morning.

I'm needing a way to pull the filings through the port and illuminate the deeper recesses.

Going to work on a vacuum adapter today. I'll

Progress is good! 👍

It would be a huge help if you had a vacuum attached to the combustion chamber such that the filings were pulled out as you grind. I didn’t think of that when it ported, but the filings were everywhere.

And a light on a stalk would help as you could direct it. I have a $12 one from IKEA that would do the trick.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Progress is good! 👍

It would be a huge help if you had a vacuum attached to the combustion chamber such that the filings were pulled out as you grind. I didn’t think of that when it ported, but the filings were everywhere.

And a light on a stalk would help as you could direct it. I have a $12 one from IKEA that would do the trick.

I have a little led flex light that I think I'm going to incorporate into the adapter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After beefing up my stands.

I did a little gasket matching this morning.

I'm needing a way to pull the filings through the port and illuminate the deeper recesses.

Going to work on a vacuum adapter today. I'll

It's out of the teens this morning, and a balmy 22°.

I think I'm going over to Harbor Freight later to get an inverter big enough to run a milk house heater.

My little generator will run the led lighting and die grinder but not 1800W on top of that.

I refuse to burn propane in a sealed box around raw iron.

Too much condensation.

I need to move forward with the engine.

It's time to check and deck the block, and order a cam.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's out of the teens this morning, and a balmy 22°.

I think I'm going over to Harbor Freight later to get an inverter big enough to run a milk house heater.

My little generator will run the led lighting and die grinder but not 1800W on top of that.

I refuse to burn propane in a sealed box around raw iron.

Too much condensation.

I need to move forward with the engine.

It's time to check and deck the block, and order a cam.

Well..... I've killed the first Harbor Freight die grinder and I haven't even got to the actual porting yet.

Maybe they will return this one.

Without power to run a big compressor I'm stuck with electric.

Should I just keep eating these up, or bite the bullet on a good one?

Brands??? Milwaukee?

Something came apart in this cylinder before.

IMG_20171112_075948.thumb.jpg.89a1484d7f680381504d9f8600ceb236.jpg

Intake match

IMG_20171112_071220.jpg.188ecd73db5a25d4a935fc18c0769a57.jpg

IMG_20171112_072800.jpg.999bf3f773b265bf5f084ced9d64a9af.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites


×
×
  • Create New...