Issues With Big Blue!?!?!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yes, soooooooo many questions....

I don't know why my brother didn't tell me he knows the guy. Nor why my nephews didn't. But, it is possible that they didn't because they called him and he didn't have an axle. I know he said "I just got this in", so maybe?

As for the cross member, the point IS to install a good one while the engine is out. But I don't know that a '95 cross member is the right one. However I've found one for $50 close to me and my plan is to get it.

As for the RSK and SD question, I think I was having second/third/tenth thoughts. "Perhaps just going with F350 springs would give a good enough ride and save almost $600 in the kit from Sky." But, if I'm into it this far, I'd better do it "right".

But, you have a great idea - the rear spacers! I'll ask for those as well.

Last, finding a wrecked 4wd F350 in this area is hard to do. And then there's the time to go get it, take it apart, find places to stash whatever comes off, and take the carcass to the crusher. If I have Big Blue apart and taking up the space in the shop there's no good place to work on an F350. Besides, it wouldn't have the SD springs. So this solution, this one stop shop, is actually the best of both worlds - I get everything in one go and at what I've learned is a reasonable price.

I'd say the $350 difference between a $800 F-350 wreck and $1150 for the parts pulled more than makes up for the time you'd have into parting a wreck and disposing of it.

(Although you would probably get $350 for the husk making it a $700 difference)

Just make a list and get ALL the parts while that truck is available.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yes, soooooooo many questions....

I don't know why my brother didn't tell me he knows the guy. Nor why my nephews didn't. But, it is possible that they didn't because they called him and he didn't have an axle. I know he said "I just got this in", so maybe?

As for the cross member, the point IS to install a good one while the engine is out. But I don't know that a '95 cross member is the right one. However I've found one for $50 close to me and my plan is to get it.

As for the RSK and SD question, I think I was having second/third/tenth thoughts. "Perhaps just going with F350 springs would give a good enough ride and save almost $600 in the kit from Sky." But, if I'm into it this far, I'd better do it "right".

But, you have a great idea - the rear spacers! I'll ask for those as well.

Last, finding a wrecked 4wd F350 in this area is hard to do. And then there's the time to go get it, take it apart, find places to stash whatever comes off, and take the carcass to the crusher. If I have Big Blue apart and taking up the space in the shop there's no good place to work on an F350. Besides, it wouldn't have the SD springs. So this solution, this one stop shop, is actually the best of both worlds - I get everything in one go and at what I've learned is a reasonable price.

I think the major difference between the Bullnose trucks and the later aero and OBS style is the crumple zone frame horns and the bumper mounting.

You might look into it and include the cross member in your package deal

[Gary Lewis]

I think the major difference between the Bullnose trucks and the later aero and OBS style is the crumple zone frame horns and the bumper mounting.

You might look into it and include the cross member in your package deal

I agree the major difference is in the frame horns, but have no way to determine if that is the right cross member since I got the wrong master parts catalog when I bought. But, I will ask him about it. However, my guess is that this truck still has the engine in it since it has just come in, and he may not have the time to get the cross member out by tomorrow.

Anyway, here's my list, and I'm working off Brad's:

• The axle itself

• Front driveshaft: I don't need this as I have the double-cardan one I got when I bought the ZF5.

• F350 yoke from the front of the t-case: I have a 1345 and don't know if the yoke from a 1356 will fit, but I'll ask him.

• Track bar mount (mounts on engine crossmember using existing holes)

• Track bar (goes between axle and mount to keep axle centered)

• Leaf springs: As said, I'm going for SD springs, not F350.

• Drivers side U-bolt plate and u-bolts: I'm getting the u-bolt plates for both sides as well as the u-bolts. But, Brad says they are torque-to-yield. Is that right?

• F350 pitman arm: Will get it

• Steering linkage: It is on the axle

• Brake calipers: I'd forgotten about them, but will get them

• The F350 (4") blocks and new U-bolts: As said, I'd forgotten about this as well.

• Brake line clip:

What did I miss?

[1986F150Six]

What did I miss?

Your wallet?

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

I agree the major difference is in the frame horns, but have no way to determine if that is the right cross member since I got the wrong master parts catalog when I bought. But, I will ask him about it. However, my guess is that this truck still has the engine in it since it has just come in, and he may not have the time to get the cross member out by tomorrow.

Anyway, here's my list, and I'm working off Brad's:

• The axle itself

• Front driveshaft: I don't need this as I have the double-cardan one I got when I bought the ZF5.

• F350 yoke from the front of the t-case: I have a 1345 and don't know if the yoke from a 1356 will fit, but I'll ask him.

• Track bar mount (mounts on engine crossmember using existing holes)

• Track bar (goes between axle and mount to keep axle centered)

• Leaf springs: As said, I'm going for SD springs, not F350.

• Drivers side U-bolt plate and u-bolts: I'm getting the u-bolt plates for both sides as well as the u-bolts. But, Brad says they are torque-to-yield. Is that right?

• F350 pitman arm: Will get it

• Steering linkage: It is on the axle

• Brake calipers: I'd forgotten about them, but will get them

• The F350 (4") blocks and new U-bolts: As said, I'd forgotten about this as well.

• Brake line clip:

What did I miss?

I didn't know that the U-bolts were TTY, but Billy at the 4x4 shop (or any spring shop) should be able to bend you up some new ones.

I have reused U-bolts before seemingly without ill effects.

I can't recall any other bits you might need.

I imagine you have reviewed the threads and made copious notes.

[Gary Lewis]

I didn't know that the U-bolts were TTY, but Billy at the 4x4 shop (or any spring shop) should be able to bend you up some new ones.

I have reused U-bolts before seemingly without ill effects.

I can't recall any other bits you might need.

I imagine you have reviewed the threads and made copious notes.

David - Why take it as it is going to be flatter than a flitter, whatever that is.

Jim - It was Brad that said the u-bolts are TTY. But I disagree. Here's what the factory shop manual says on the D44 R&R. Note that it says nothing about replacing the u-bolts:

Removal

1. Raise vehicle on a hoist or jack and install safety stands.

2. Remove the wheel and tire assemblies,and brake calipers.

NOTE: Do not let the caliper hang with it’s weight on the brake hose or the hose may become stretched or twisted.

3. Position jack under right hand axle assembly. Remove the two U-bolts securing the shock absorber mounting plate and leaf springs to tube and yoke assembly.

4. Disconnect the vent tube at the differential housing. Remove the vent fitting and install a 1/8 inch pipe plug.

5. Remove the pivot bolt that secures the right hand axle assembly to crossmember. Remove the axle assembly and pull the axle shaft out of the slip yoke.

6. Position the jack under thel eft hand axle assembly. Remove the two U-bolts securing the shock absorber mounting plate and leaf spring to tube and yoke assembly.

7. Position a jack under the differential housing.

8. Remove the pivot bolt securing the left hand axle assembly to crossmember. Remove the left axle assembly.

Installation

1. Raise vehicle on a hoist or a jack and position left hand axle assembly at leaf spring assembly. Install the pivot bolt that secures the axle assembly to the crossmember. Secure the shock absorber mounting plate to the leaf spring and axle assembly with the two U-bolts.Tighten bolts to 116-162 N-m (85-120 ft-lbs).

[85lebaront2]

I think the major difference between the Bullnose trucks and the later aero and OBS style is the crumple zone frame horns and the bumper mounting.

You might look into it and include the cross member in your package deal

Jim, from what I've seen, only the lighter (under 8500 GVW) trucks seem to have the crumple zones (along with air bags from 1994 on). The heavier trucks didn't get them.

[ArdWrknTrk]

David - Why take it as it is going to be flatter than a flitter, whatever that is.

Jim - It was Brad that said the u-bolts are TTY. But I disagree. Here's what the factory shop manual says on the D44 R&R. Note that it says nothing about replacing the u-bolts:

Removal

1. Raise vehicle on a hoist or jack and install safety stands.

2. Remove the wheel and tire assemblies,and brake calipers.

NOTE: Do not let the caliper hang with it’s weight on the brake hose or the hose may become stretched or twisted.

3. Position jack under right hand axle assembly. Remove the two U-bolts securing the shock absorber mounting plate and leaf springs to tube and yoke assembly.

4. Disconnect the vent tube at the differential housing. Remove the vent fitting and install a 1/8 inch pipe plug.

5. Remove the pivot bolt that secures the right hand axle assembly to crossmember. Remove the axle assembly and pull the axle shaft out of the slip yoke.

6. Position the jack under thel eft hand axle assembly. Remove the two U-bolts securing the shock absorber mounting plate and leaf spring to tube and yoke assembly.

7. Position a jack under the differential housing.

8. Remove the pivot bolt securing the left hand axle assembly to crossmember. Remove the left axle assembly.

Installation

1. Raise vehicle on a hoist or a jack and position left hand axle assembly at leaf spring assembly. Install the pivot bolt that secures the axle assembly to the crossmember. Secure the shock absorber mounting plate to the leaf spring and axle assembly with the two U-bolts.Tighten bolts to 116-162 N-m (85-120 ft-lbs).

I guess a lot depends on the condition of the U-bolts (Pitting, mangled threads), and whether the guy in KS uses a torch to cut the axle out.

Bolts aren't a big deal in my mind.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim, from what I've seen, only the lighter (under 8500 GVW) trucks seem to have the crumple zones (along with air bags from 1994 on). The heavier trucks didn't get them.

So I guess it would work?

Looking up the part number or the Hollander interchange should give a definitive answer.

[Gary Lewis]

So I guess it would work?

Looking up the part number or the Hollander interchange should give a definitive answer.

Just talked to him. He's planning on cutting the frame behind the engine cross member and giving me the whole thing - as well as SD springs. Plus the rear blocks and u-bolts if they've not been cut. It'll be ready tomorrow afternoon. And he's going to look for the front yoke for a double-cardan on a 1345.