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Issues With Big Blue!?!?!


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Just talked to him. He's planning on cutting the frame behind the engine cross member and giving me the whole thing - as well as SD springs. Plus the rear blocks and u-bolts if they've not been cut. It'll be ready tomorrow afternoon. And he's going to look for the front yoke for a double-cardan on a 1345. :nabble_anim_jump:

Lamentations 3:25.

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Just talked to him. He's planning on cutting the frame behind the engine cross member and giving me the whole thing - as well as SD springs. Plus the rear blocks and u-bolts if they've not been cut. It'll be ready tomorrow afternoon. And he's going to look for the front yoke for a double-cardan on a 1345. :nabble_anim_jump:

Aaaand,

we're back to where I said "even another Huck would do".

Good for you Gary!

I'm glad it's all coming together. :nabble_smiley_good:

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Just talked to him. He's planning on cutting the frame behind the engine cross member and giving me the whole thing - as well as SD springs. Plus the rear blocks and u-bolts if they've not been cut. It'll be ready tomorrow afternoon. And he's going to look for the front yoke for a double-cardan on a 1345. :nabble_anim_jump:

Definitely sounding better! I am trying to remember which bolts had better shear strength, I believe Gr 8, but if the holes from the rivets end up being Metric, then maybe 12.9, minimum might be 10.9 for fasteners replacing the rivets. I would use flanged heads and prevailing torque flanged nuts if the room is there.

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Definitely sounding better! I am trying to remember which bolts had better shear strength, I believe Gr 8, but if the holes from the rivets end up being Metric, then maybe 12.9, minimum might be 10.9 for fasteners replacing the rivets. I would use flanged heads and prevailing torque flanged nuts if the room is there.

100% with Bill here, but if using bolts I'd suggest ream to size as they will never fill the hole as a rivet would.

And ANY relative motion will quickly cause damage.

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Definitely sounding better! I am trying to remember which bolts had better shear strength, I believe Gr 8, but if the holes from the rivets end up being Metric, then maybe 12.9, minimum might be 10.9 for fasteners replacing the rivets. I would use flanged heads and prevailing torque flanged nuts if the room is there.

It's all in the TSB. :nabble_smiley_wink:

https://supermotors.net/getfile/260055/thumbnail/rivetreplacement.jpg

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I'm aware of the TSB for the transmission cross member popping and creaking.Ford suggests a HDPE slip sheet and controlled torque when reinstalling.I'll have to look it up.Thanks Steve! :nabble_smiley_good:
Sorry folks, been decorating graves today - as well as driving a couple hundred miles. Then I hooked up the trailer, checked and adjusted tire pressures, loaded up the chain, boomers, and ratchet straps, and added a few tools, jack, and 4-way. Ready to head out in the morn.

:nabble_anim_jump:

David - The Lord is good to those whose hope is in him, to the one who seeks him; That would be me. :nabble_smiley_good:

As for the bolts, hole sizes, etc, we have a slightly different form of the TSB here: TSB's/Brakes, Steering, Suspension, Wheels/96-15-11 FRAME - RIVET REPLACEMENT WITH BOLTS.

And, why not just include it here as well? It does say to ream the holes, which I'll do. And, I'll find flanged headed bolts and nuts in those sizes and grades.

But, this TSB is addressing replacing individual rivets, one at a time while the others hold the cross member in place. However, I won't have that as I have to take the whole cross member out. So, I'm thinking that some form of clamps should be used to ensure the frame doesn't move.

Thoughts?

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So, I'm thinking that some form of clamps should be used to ensure the frame doesn't move.

I think C-clamping pieces of angle across both rails fore and aft of the x-member would ensure no movement.

That's kinda what I'm thinking, Steve. But I don't know that I have angle, so will 3" square tubing with an 1/8" wall do? :nabble_smiley_evil:

I think one piece above in front and one above behind, and then one below, either ahead of or behind. That way the frame can't twist.

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That's kinda what I'm thinking, Steve. But I don't know that I have angle, so will 3" square tubing with an 1/8" wall do? :nabble_smiley_evil:

I think one piece above in front and one above behind, and then one below, either ahead of or behind. That way the frame can't twist.

I see you got more squalls blowing through early this morning Gary.

Wishing you a safe trip, and prayers for all those around you who are being impacted by these historically high flood waters.

Thank you for honoring those who made the ultimate sacrifice for our nation! :nabble_smiley_super: (best I can do for flying the flag)

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