Issues With Big Blue!?!?!

[Gary Lewis]

Well, 2" of lift going from a 250 to 350 front end, and another 2" for the RSK.

I'm guessing that the difference between 350 and Superduty kits is the projection of the front brackets because they mention in the Superduty kit instructions having to notch the lower rear edge of the front bumper.

This must be where they accommodate the longer Superduty spring.

I saw the bit about trimming the bumper and also assumed that is where they accommodate the longer SD spring. But, I'm thinking that with the Warn winch bumper I won't have to make any changes to it.

As for height, I forgot the 2" for going to an F350 from a 250. Sure going to need the grab handles inside.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I saw the bit about trimming the bumper and also assumed that is where they accommodate the longer SD spring. But, I'm thinking that with the Warn winch bumper I won't have to make any changes to it.

As for height, I forgot the 2" for going to an F350 from a 250. Sure going to need the grab handles inside.

Then you can leave the rear end alone and have a level truck?

Maybe the nightmare cross member was a blessing in disguise.

You'll gain trail clearance, ride comfort and turning in one fell swoop.

(the pedant in me won't allow turning *radius* as it is actually reduced)

[Gary Lewis]

Then you can leave the rear end alone and have a level truck?

Maybe the nightmare cross member was a blessing in disguise.

You'll gain trail clearance, ride comfort and turning in one fell swoop.

(the pedant in me won't allow turning *radius* as it is actually reduced)

Yes, the turning radius is "improved".

But the rear is way too stiff. Right now, with the sway bars disconnected, the front is rough and the rear is ROUGH! So I need to take some leaves out of the springs. Guess I'd better measure to see what the height difference is right now.

I'll be back - after two cups of coffee!

[85lebaront2]

I saw the bit about trimming the bumper and also assumed that is where they accommodate the longer SD spring. But, I'm thinking that with the Warn winch bumper I won't have to make any changes to it.

As for height, I forgot the 2" for going to an F350 from a 250. Sure going to need the grab handles inside.

I have grab handles in Darth because a 2WD crew cab must sit higher, probably to keep from high centering the frame. I saw one a number of years ago with no running boards or steps and it looked like you would need short ladder to get in. I know I can be alongside a lot of stock height 4WD trucks of most makes and be level with them in Darth, roof height is roughly 7' from the ground which still lets me get the car/light truck fare on the Chesapeake Bay bridge tunnel, break point is 8' high or commercial truck.

[salans7]

Shaun - Good to know. So, any 1986 to '94 4wd F350 w/a 460 or diesel would give me both the cross member and the suspension with king pins, and from '95-'97 would give me the same but with ball joints. Right?

But, is there much reason to prefer either ball joints or king pins?

And, do we know that the cross member stayed the same for all those years, or is that something I'll determine with the MPC?

Exactly.

As was previously said, there is no real benefit to king pins versus ball joints. There are people who prefer kingpins, and those who prefer ball joints. If you were rock crawling with this axle, kingpins all day long. But for what you're intending to do, ball joints are fine. Your biggest issue with a ball joint axle is that it will cost you slightly more since you will have to buy new calipers. With the kingpin axle, you can keep your current calipers, provided they are the dual piston. Otherwise, the axles are the same. Just watch the rot on the passenger side u-bolt plate. Mine seems to be solid, but I still don't trust it. I'll probably end up with either a u-bolt flip, or welding on the replacement plate/panhard mount that Sky sells. Pitting is a real issue on axles from up north.

You'll have to check the MPC on the crossmember. Overall I'm sure it's the same, but there's probably an extra hole here, one less hole there, etc.

[Gary Lewis]

Shaun - Good to know. So, any 1986 to '94 4wd F350 w/a 460 or diesel would give me both the cross member and the suspension with king pins, and from '95-'97 would give me the same but with ball joints. Right?

But, is there much reason to prefer either ball joints or king pins?

And, do we know that the cross member stayed the same for all those years, or is that something I'll determine with the MPC?

Exactly.

As was previously said, there is no real benefit to king pins versus ball joints. There are people who prefer kingpins, and those who prefer ball joints. If you were rock crawling with this axle, kingpins all day long. But for what you're intending to do, ball joints are fine. Your biggest issue with a ball joint axle is that it will cost you slightly more since you will have to buy new calipers. With the kingpin axle, you can keep your current calipers, provided they are the dual piston. Otherwise, the axles are the same. Just watch the rot on the passenger side u-bolt plate. Mine seems to be solid, but I still don't trust it. I'll probably end up with either a u-bolt flip, or welding on the replacement plate/panhard mount that Sky sells. Pitting is a real issue on axles from up north.

You'll have to check the MPC on the crossmember. Overall I'm sure it's the same, but there's probably an extra hole here, one less hole there, etc.

Bill - I don't mind the height at all, so welcome the 2 - 4" of lift this is likely to give BB.

Shaun - That's the problem with the MPC. They change the part number, which means there is SOME difference in the part, but there is no way to tell what the difference is, nor whether it will interchange in spite of the difference. But, I'll check out the part number about this time next week when I get the new MPC.

As for the king pin vs ball joint debate, I'm guessing that and the brake caliper question will be decided for me when/if I find a donor. I'll take whatever it has.

And, toward that end, Craigslist doesn't show anything in a 200 mile radius from me that will work. The only thing I've found is a running '93 F350 DRW for $3200. But, it isn't 4wd. So, the search continues.

[85lebaront2]

Bill - I don't mind the height at all, so welcome the 2 - 4" of lift this is likely to give BB.

Shaun - That's the problem with the MPC. They change the part number, which means there is SOME difference in the part, but there is no way to tell what the difference is, nor whether it will interchange in spite of the difference. But, I'll check out the part number about this time next week when I get the new MPC.

As for the king pin vs ball joint debate, I'm guessing that and the brake caliper question will be decided for me when/if I find a donor. I'll take whatever it has.

And, toward that end, Craigslist doesn't show anything in a 200 mile radius from me that will work. The only thing I've found is a running '93 F350 DRW for $3200. But, it isn't 4wd. So, the search continues.

There is a very active batch of Ford groups on FB as you know, post a request in a few of them.

[Gary Lewis]

There is a very active batch of Ford groups on FB as you know, post a request in a few of them.

I will, but I want to know what the catalog says will work before I do. Does that make sense?

[salans7]

I will, but I want to know what the catalog says will work before I do. Does that make sense?

I wish you were looking for one when I bought mine, the guy had a whole flatbed full of Ford Dana 60's, most were kingpins. I could have picked up one for me and one for you.

With that said, are you open to just an axle or are you trying to source the axle with a truck?

[Gary Lewis]

I wish you were looking for one when I bought mine, the guy had a whole flatbed full of Ford Dana 60's, most were kingpins. I could have picked up one for me and one for you.

With that said, are you open to just an axle or are you trying to source the axle with a truck?

The main issue with Big Blue is the cross member, and it must be replaced. So the suggestion has been to source a whole truck with both the cross member and the front suspension - and the correct 3.54 axle ratio.

But, if that proves to be like finding a 1996 460 with SEFI and MAF, then I might turn to piecing it out.

What I'm really leery of is getting a cross member that has already been removed. But I won't know how it was removed and, therefore, if the holes have been enlarged or a torch used. So I want to remove the cross member myself. Which sounds like I need at least a section of the frame or a whole truck.