Rosebud

[Gary Lewis]

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I've made progress, slow progress but anyway-

I got the new accelerator cable installed. It did make a big difference, but the throttle shaft on this carb seems to be hanging up. It requires a good push to start moving, and when released, it hangs just a little shy of closing. I sprayed the ends of the shaft with PB Blaster, and that cured the failure to close, but not the difficult opening. It reminds me of a 1999 Chevy truck I had, that required the throttle body to be cleaned at every oil change.

The accelerator pump on the 2150 was another problem. It wasn't pushing the plunger all the way out, so I figured the spring might be broken. Upon pulling it apart I found The spring to be fine, but the diaphragm was in backwards. It was leaking a little gas from the vent hole, so I went in search of a new one. I went to several local parts stores with no luck, even at the one that had the choke conversion kit. I just knew they would have it, since that store is pretty much just a hangout for retired guys. But no luck there. My last resort was to stop by the local NAPA, and talk to that one guy, the one I have bought parts from since I was 16. He didn't have the exact same one, but he did have one I could make work. I had to bend the linkage a little to get it just right, but it works now, so I am happy with it.

Next up was the TTB pivot bushings. It wasn't fun, but it could have been worse. Once they were in, I basically centered the adjusters, and did a tape measure/eyeball alignment. I still have to address the ball joints, though.

I've been trying to fix a leak where the power steering pressure hose enters the gearbox. I have replaced the hose, because the old one looked bent. I figured it might have a crack in the flare that I couldn't see. When that didn't work, I pulled the brass seat out of the hole, and it had a small area that looked like it hadn't been making contact. I chucked the seat up in my drill, and with the help of a file and some sandpaper, gave it a new sealing surface. that didn't work, either. It did change things, though. Before this, it was leaking between the nut and the line. Now, it leaks around the threads of the fitting. I don't know what that means yet, but I will return once I have a chance to look into it again. While I've been working on the front end I have noticed that the frame is flexing terribly around the steering box.

Chad - Jim/ArdWrknTrk says "Progress is good!" And it doesn't have to be lots of progress. Two steps forward and one back is still going in the right direction.

On the frame, I fear it is cracked as that wasn't uncommon. Dad's truck's frame was cracked there. Check out this TSB on it: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/97-03-10-frame-creakingpopping.html

On the carb's throttle shaft, look to see if the throttle plates are binding. If they've been removed and replaced they might be in a position where they bind in the carb's bore and then the throttle will be hard to open. If so, you might be able to loosen the screws holding the throttle plates to the throttle shaft and re-position them so they don't bind. But be careful as the screws should be staked on the back side and the heads will break off if you go very far.

As for the power steering, can you use Teflon tape on the threads?

[Operator1]

Chad - Jim/ArdWrknTrk says "Progress is good!" And it doesn't have to be lots of progress. Two steps forward and one back is still going in the right direction.

On the frame, I fear it is cracked as that wasn't uncommon. Dad's truck's frame was cracked there. Check out this TSB on it: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/97-03-10-frame-creakingpopping.html

On the carb's throttle shaft, look to see if the throttle plates are binding. If they've been removed and replaced they might be in a position where they bind in the carb's bore and then the throttle will be hard to open. If so, you might be able to loosen the screws holding the throttle plates to the throttle shaft and re-position them so they don't bind. But be careful as the screws should be staked on the back side and the heads will break off if you go very far.

As for the power steering, can you use Teflon tape on the threads?

You are correct. I do see a crack on the inside of the frame, where the gearbox is mounted. it also looks like the rivet that holds the front of the crossmember to the frame rail is either broken, or has oblonged its hole.

Thanks for the tip on the throttle plates. That sounds like a good possibility. I have looked high and low for my old bucket of 2150 parts, and all I have found is a parts list.

As much as it pains me to put tape on a flared fitting, I'm not taking it off the table. The gearbox seems to work well enough, so I am willing to make some compromises to stop the leak.

 

[Operator1]

You are correct. I do see a crack on the inside of the frame, where the gearbox is mounted. it also looks like the rivet that holds the front of the crossmember to the frame rail is either broken, or has oblonged its hole.

Thanks for the tip on the throttle plates. That sounds like a good possibility. I have looked high and low for my old bucket of 2150 parts, and all I have found is a parts list.

As much as it pains me to put tape on a flared fitting, I'm not taking it off the table. The gearbox seems to work well enough, so I am willing to make some compromises to stop the leak.

I almost forgot, I took her down the road for the first time. The transmission actually shifted! That is a big step forward for me.

[Gary Lewis]

You are correct. I do see a crack on the inside of the frame, where the gearbox is mounted. it also looks like the rivet that holds the front of the crossmember to the frame rail is either broken, or has oblonged its hole.

Thanks for the tip on the throttle plates. That sounds like a good possibility. I have looked high and low for my old bucket of 2150 parts, and all I have found is a parts list.

As much as it pains me to put tape on a flared fitting, I'm not taking it off the table. The gearbox seems to work well enough, so I am willing to make some compromises to stop the leak.

Bummer! Ok, the "inside of the frame" is actually the "frame liner" in Ford-speak. And, it is replaceable, as outlined here: TSB's/Brakes Steering/Suspension/Wheels/Steering Gear Frame Liner. I found one NOS for Big Blue, although I don't yet know if I'll have to use it.

But, the liner was certainly cracked on Dad's truck and the Huck fastener was rattly-loose. If you go to the first post in Dad's Truck Build thread, go down to the document, and then go to Page 12 you'll see a discussion of that. And, there are links in there to what I actually did, which was written up on FTE. And while that isn't the recommended way to fix it, I think it will work. "Will" as the truck is not yet back in service.

[Gary Lewis]

I almost forgot, I took her down the road for the first time. The transmission actually shifted! That is a big step forward for me.

Congrat's!

[Operator1]

On the axles, the 9" was still in use in '86, although not as frequently used as earlier.

I did check the tag on the Front axle and it said 3.50. First time I've seen that gear in a TTB.

[Operator1]

As for the power steering, can you use Teflon tape on the threads?

I wrapped that fitting up in the thick yellow pipe tape today. Tighten, steer, repeat, until I finally saw no more seepage. Ended up with it a lot tighter than I expected.

[Gary Lewis]

As for the power steering, can you use Teflon tape on the threads?

I wrapped that fitting up in the thick yellow pipe tape today. Tighten, steer, repeat, until I finally saw no more seepage. Ended up with it a lot tighter than I expected.

Glad you got it sorted. I hate leaks!

As for the 3.50, lots of the trucks with a 9" rear also had 3.50 fronts.

[Operator1]

Glad you got it sorted. I hate leaks!

As for the 3.50, lots of the trucks with a 9" rear also had 3.50 fronts.

I haven't forgotten the Bullnose, but my Jeep got jealous of all the time I was spending with it. Having appeased the latest round of Jeep problems, it's time to get back into Rosebud.

Pulled the engine to change the oil pan, gaskets, seals, and whatever else I find.

Tore into it and found the bores to be 4.004" more or less. They could stand to have a bunch of grapes run through them. Pulled a main cap, looks like I will be buying some bearings.

Removed the steering box to assess the cracking situation.

I'm gonna come up with some sort of reinforcement to stiffen that area, I surely don't think just welding up the crack is going to be enough. The steering shaft was also really sloppy at the rag joint.

I'm gonna try to clean up the wiring and plumbing under the hood while I'm in there.

 

[Operator1]

I haven't forgotten the Bullnose, but my Jeep got jealous of all the time I was spending with it. Having appeased the latest round of Jeep problems, it's time to get back into Rosebud.

Pulled the engine to change the oil pan, gaskets, seals, and whatever else I find.

Tore into it and found the bores to be 4.004" more or less. They could stand to have a bunch of grapes run through them. Pulled a main cap, looks like I will be buying some bearings.

Removed the steering box to assess the cracking situation.

I'm gonna come up with some sort of reinforcement to stiffen that area, I surely don't think just welding up the crack is going to be enough. The steering shaft was also really sloppy at the rag joint.

I'm gonna try to clean up the wiring and plumbing under the hood while I'm in there.

 

Well, I guess the pictures are optimized for lying down.