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Little Blue 82


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Gary, I have that 89 bronco I am going to go pickup soon. I have no idea what its crossmember looks like yet. With a little luck, it might have what I need.

I bought the Summit HEI dizzy. Its on its way.

Here is a photo of the carb. The yellow wire loom has one or two wires running somewhere in the carb. I have no idea if this is a feedback carb.

Ray - I think that's the feedback carb. Here are a couple of pics of one of them, and you can see in the right shot the thing the wires in the yellow loom go into.

YF1_and_YF1_FB_Shots.thumb.jpg.d7c683f1a9aaa4a9113d295cde2ef37b.jpg

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Also, I am 85% sure there is a vacuum leak. I can hear it when sitting inside the cab. When I touch the brake peddal, it goes away or is unnoticeable. I will plug the vac line tomorrow going to the booster and see what happens.

Here's a test I found for a leaking booster:

One quick test for leakage, is to turn the engine off and press the brake pedal. If the pedal still has one or two assisted applications before getting hard to press, likely no leak exists.

And then it offers this regarding why boosters fail:

When brake boosters fail the reason is often outside the booster itself. For instance a bad master cylinder leaks fluid into the booster. Brake fluid will cause deterioration of the diaphragm resulting in failure. If misdiagnosed, the failed booster can provide a vacuum to the rear of a replacement master cylinder and quickly ruin it, repeating the cycle.
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Here's a test I found for a leaking booster:

One quick test for leakage, is to turn the engine off and press the brake pedal. If the pedal still has one or two assisted applications before getting hard to press, likely no leak exists.

And then it offers this regarding why boosters fail:

When brake boosters fail the reason is often outside the booster itself. For instance a bad master cylinder leaks fluid into the booster. Brake fluid will cause deterioration of the diaphragm resulting in failure. If misdiagnosed, the failed booster can provide a vacuum to the rear of a replacement master cylinder and quickly ruin it, repeating the cycle.

Thanks a lot Gary. I figured if I plugged the booster vacuum line I would eliminate the leak in the booster, and the sound.

But that procedure would be faster.

It sounds like the engine is running without the air cleaner lid on, but hit the brake and it goes away. So I am pretty sure it a leaky booster.

 

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Did he just change an axle or axles? Or the whole diff? The certification label indicates non-locking, but if he changed it then I guess it will be a mystery until you spin it or pull it.:nabble_smiley_good:

Sorry, I started looking back through here and realized I have missed some comments.

Previous owner said he had the entire axle swapped.

Gary. About the hitch... I was looking at it.....its made in three pieces. Two brackets that bolt to frame. The middle piece with the reciever bolts to the two brackets, and its installed upside down!

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Did he just change an axle or axles? Or the whole diff? The certification label indicates non-locking, but if he changed it then I guess it will be a mystery until you spin it or pull it.:nabble_smiley_good:

Sorry, I started looking back through here and realized I have missed some comments.

Previous owner said he had the entire axle swapped.

Gary. About the hitch... I was looking at it.....its made in three pieces. Two brackets that bolt to frame. The middle piece with the reciever bolts to the two brackets, and its installed upside down!

Hit a button and lost a long post :nabble_smiley_cry:

That hitch sounds like the same I have and IIRC there is no way the side frame parts can be installed upside down as the holes don't line up. And yes it does hang low.

Clutch: Check all the pivots points as they wear and egg shape and add plat to the system.

I welded the pivots and reshaped them by hand with grinding and hand files.

There is also plastic bushings on the cross shaft from frame to motor. You can get the bushings, felt seals & lock clip from LMC & Denis Carpenter.

You CAN NOT get the motor pivot that screws into the motor. Mine had a lot of wear and I also have to weld and reshape it.

When moving the truck 1 day the linkage felt bad. Upon looking it over I found the motor pivot broke leaving the threaded part in the block. I was lucky that part came out easy but now what to do on a part you cant get? Why you make one!

I found a bolt with the right thread pitch, cut the head off the bolt and welded the threaded part to the ball part of the pivot. Got it all back together and works great.

Did I see that your dist. has a vacuum can on it and if so a vacuum line to it? If so you would not need to replace it but you do have a new dist. coming if a saw it posted right.

My 81 is a non-feed back system but I am using the stock carb and EFI exh. manifolds and so far just moving it around is working good.

Good luck

Dave ----

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Did he just change an axle or axles? Or the whole diff? The certification label indicates non-locking, but if he changed it then I guess it will be a mystery until you spin it or pull it.:nabble_smiley_good:

Sorry, I started looking back through here and realized I have missed some comments.

Previous owner said he had the entire axle swapped.

Gary. About the hitch... I was looking at it.....its made in three pieces. Two brackets that bolt to frame. The middle piece with the reciever bolts to the two brackets, and its installed upside down!

Hit a button and lost a long post :nabble_smiley_cry:

That hitch sounds like the same I have and IIRC there is no way the side frame parts can be installed upside down as the holes don't line up. And yes it does hang low.

Clutch: Check all the pivots points as they wear and egg shape and add plat to the system.

I welded the pivots and reshaped them by hand with grinding and hand files.

There is also plastic bushings on the cross shaft from frame to motor. You can get the bushings, felt seals & lock clip from LMC & Denis Carpenter.

You CAN NOT get the motor pivot that screws into the motor. Mine had a lot of wear and I also have to weld and reshape it.

When moving the truck 1 day the linkage felt bad. Upon looking it over I found the motor pivot broke leaving the threaded part in the block. I was lucky that part came out easy but now what to do on a part you cant get? Why you make one!

I found a bolt with the right thread pitch, cut the head off the bolt and welded the threaded part to the ball part of the pivot. Got it all back together and works great.

Did I see that your dist. has a vacuum can on it and if so a vacuum line to it? If so you would not need to replace it but you do have a new dist. coming if a saw it posted right.

My 81 is a non-feed back system but I am using the stock carb and EFI exh. manifolds and so far just moving it around is working good.

Good luck

Dave ----

Dave, thanks for all that info.

Yes, the hitch side brackets are installed correctly. Its the center section that needs to be flipped. Once flipped, it will sit lower and in the correct position.

I am pretty sure I am going to pull the motor and clean everything up, remove the wires I dont need, inspect everything and stick it back in.

Every seal is leaking from valve cover to output shaft seal on xfer case. So.....

I may just remove the bed and cab. Would make it easier to work on everything.

Im affraid my backup truck is going to end up being my project #2. The big blue impala is now being neglected.

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Dave, thanks for all that info.

Yes, the hitch side brackets are installed correctly. Its the center section that needs to be flipped. Once flipped, it will sit lower and in the correct position.

I am pretty sure I am going to pull the motor and clean everything up, remove the wires I dont need, inspect everything and stick it back in.

Every seal is leaking from valve cover to output shaft seal on xfer case. So.....

I may just remove the bed and cab. Would make it easier to work on everything.

Im affraid my backup truck is going to end up being my project #2. The big blue impala is now being neglected.

Also, the previous owner said it had the original spare......

The spare is a BF Goodrich All Terrain.....im no expert, correct me if I am wrong, but I dont think the factory used BF Goodrich All Terrains. Maybe the dealer installed them? Not that it matters.

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Also, the previous owner said it had the original spare......

The spare is a BF Goodrich All Terrain.....im no expert, correct me if I am wrong, but I dont think the factory used BF Goodrich All Terrains. Maybe the dealer installed them? Not that it matters.

Screenshot_20190421-083738_Chrome.jpg.8bf8b1d91050a09dde4220945a832a15.jpg

These are the wheels and tires Id like to put on LB82.

I love the clear blinkers and no blue oval look too.

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Did he just change an axle or axles? Or the whole diff? The certification label indicates non-locking, but if he changed it then I guess it will be a mystery until you spin it or pull it.:nabble_smiley_good:

Sorry, I started looking back through here and realized I have missed some comments.

Previous owner said he had the entire axle swapped.

Gary. About the hitch... I was looking at it.....its made in three pieces. Two brackets that bolt to frame. The middle piece with the reciever bolts to the two brackets, and its installed upside down!

Hit a button and lost a long post :nabble_smiley_cry:

That hitch sounds like the same I have and IIRC there is no way the side frame parts can be installed upside down as the holes don't line up. And yes it does hang low.

Clutch: Check all the pivots points as they wear and egg shape and add plat to the system.

I welded the pivots and reshaped them by hand with grinding and hand files.

There is also plastic bushings on the cross shaft from frame to motor. You can get the bushings, felt seals & lock clip from LMC & Denis Carpenter.

You CAN NOT get the motor pivot that screws into the motor. Mine had a lot of wear and I also have to weld and reshape it.

When moving the truck 1 day the linkage felt bad. Upon looking it over I found the motor pivot broke leaving the threaded part in the block. I was lucky that part came out easy but now what to do on a part you cant get? Why you make one!

I found a bolt with the right thread pitch, cut the head off the bolt and welded the threaded part to the ball part of the pivot. Got it all back together and works great.

Did I see that your dist. has a vacuum can on it and if so a vacuum line to it? If so you would not need to replace it but you do have a new dist. coming if a saw it posted right.

My 81 is a non-feed back system but I am using the stock carb and EFI exh. manifolds and so far just moving it around is working good.

Good luck

Dave ----

Dave, the links in your signature are broken.

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Dave, the links in your signature are broken.

Yea I know my site is down, think I have to renew my domain name from what my "IT guy" (my son) said.

The domain name & hosting are 2 different people and I cant log into the domain site to check things so need to call them someday, maybe today?

I will have to re-check my hitch to see if the center can be flipped to get it a little higher.

Then again I should measure the hitch on my Dodge that I use to pull the car trailer to see what it is as I would be using the Ford as a back up when needed but only have 1 WD hitch with a 2-5/16" ball and it is set for the dodge height.

Dave ----

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