ArdWrknTrk Posted April 7, 2019 Share Posted April 7, 2019 Yes, it is hard to imagine that line pulling fuel. But with it off and the ports capped we will know it isn't. Hence my suggestion to get things down to the absolute minimum. And I agree, carbs are going to be very passé, which is part of my quest to put EFI on both Big Blue and Dad's truck. But, I think there are enough aficionados of the ICE to keep them alive for a bit more than one generation. I hope! We've had ICE powered personal transportation ubiquitous for a century. ~4 generations, imo. 25 years from now???? Battery electric and fuel cell vehicles eliminate ignition, exhaust, fuel metering and much cooling and braking. Never a tune-up, oil change, filter, belt or exhaust replacement nor concern about emissions. This is going to be devastating to the aftermarket parts sector and petroindustrial complex. *They already win unquestionably in performance and equivalent fuel economy* Our electric infrastructure has a long way to go though. Investment here will be huge and painful. Sorry for the thread tangent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstone4646 Posted April 7, 2019 Author Share Posted April 7, 2019 We've had ICE powered personal transportation ubiquitous for a century. ~4 generations, imo. 25 years from now???? Battery electric and fuel cell vehicles eliminate ignition, exhaust, fuel metering and much cooling and braking. Never a tune-up, oil change, filter, belt or exhaust replacement nor concern about emissions. This is going to be devastating to the aftermarket parts sector and petroindustrial complex. *They already win unquestionably in performance and equivalent fuel economy* Our electric infrastructure has a long way to go though. Investment here will be huge and painful. Sorry for the thread tangent. Update, removed and plugged all vacuum ports on the carb as well as unecessary Intake ports...cranked it up. Still a high idle, I sprayed more starter fluid along the rear (firewall side) of the carb and the idle dropped down to normal...I pulled the carb and you can visibly see on the gasket where it's leaking pretty good. So before I just replace the gasket, what do you guys think about spacers between the carb and intake? I have one brand new still in it's packaging that the previous owner left with the truck. Worth Installing, or stay away? Its not an overly expensive spacer, looks like an auto zone straight off the shelf, has a 4 port insert, and a large square insert for various manifold setups I suppose, comes with new gaskets as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 7, 2019 Share Posted April 7, 2019 Update, removed and plugged all vacuum ports on the carb as well as unecessary Intake ports...cranked it up. Still a high idle, I sprayed more starter fluid along the rear (firewall side) of the carb and the idle dropped down to normal...I pulled the carb and you can visibly see on the gasket where it's leaking pretty good. So before I just replace the gasket, what do you guys think about spacers between the carb and intake? I have one brand new still in it's packaging that the previous owner left with the truck. Worth Installing, or stay away? Its not an overly expensive spacer, looks like an auto zone straight off the shelf, has a 4 port insert, and a large square insert for various manifold setups I suppose, comes with new gaskets as well. What intake is on the truck now? Will the new gasket cover it? Or do you*need* the spacer? How is the throttle cable alignment? Would the spacer help or hurt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 7, 2019 Share Posted April 7, 2019 Update, removed and plugged all vacuum ports on the carb as well as unecessary Intake ports...cranked it up. Still a high idle, I sprayed more starter fluid along the rear (firewall side) of the carb and the idle dropped down to normal...I pulled the carb and you can visibly see on the gasket where it's leaking pretty good. So before I just replace the gasket, what do you guys think about spacers between the carb and intake? I have one brand new still in it's packaging that the previous owner left with the truck. Worth Installing, or stay away? Its not an overly expensive spacer, looks like an auto zone straight off the shelf, has a 4 port insert, and a large square insert for various manifold setups I suppose, comes with new gaskets as well. If your current manifold has EGR (a notch that wraps around the back of the carb inlet) then you need to close it off. To both the inlet and the atmosphere. Most aftermarket spacers don't do this. You need a block off plate, available from Edelbrock or Transdapt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstone4646 Posted April 7, 2019 Author Share Posted April 7, 2019 What intake is on the truck now? Will the new gasket cover it? Or do you*need* the spacer? How is the throttle cable alignment? Would the spacer help or hurt? I don't know what Intake is on it, need to figure that out and get some number off of it. As for the spacer, that is what I am asking. The packaging claims "increase power!" but that is just an advertising gimmick in my opinion because I personally do not know if they really do or not....which is why I am asking! I can say for sure my manifold has zero egr items on it. No valve, nada. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 7, 2019 Share Posted April 7, 2019 I don't know what Intake is on it, need to figure that out and get some number off of it. As for the spacer, that is what I am asking. The packaging claims "increase power!" but that is just an advertising gimmick in my opinion because I personally do not know if they really do or not....which is why I am asking! I can say for sure my manifold has zero egr items on it. No valve, nada. Adding intake length (spacer) can help power in some instances.... You need to look at the manifold to figure out why your carb doesn't seal. Take the new thick gasket and hold it to the bottom of the carb. Drop the gasket over the mounting studs of the manifold. Is there somewhere that it doesn't line up? The EGR would have been in the factory spacer, but the port would also be in a factory manifold. Is the manifold iron or aluminum? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted April 7, 2019 Share Posted April 7, 2019 I don't know what Intake is on it, need to figure that out and get some number off of it. As for the spacer, that is what I am asking. The packaging claims "increase power!" but that is just an advertising gimmick in my opinion because I personally do not know if they really do or not....which is why I am asking! I can say for sure my manifold has zero egr items on it. No valve, nada. This is the cheapest, safest, most-effective way to pinpoint vacuum leaks: https://supermotors.net/getfile/998125/thumbnail/stethoscope.jpgI don't know what Intake is on it, need to figure that out...Post lots of pics.The packaging claims "increase power!" but that is just an advertising gimmick...Right - it's dead weight. No more useful than magnets around the fuel lines, or a mason jar with electric wires connected to the intake. Sell it or toss it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstone4646 Posted April 8, 2019 Author Share Posted April 8, 2019 This is the cheapest, safest, most-effective way to pinpoint vacuum leaks: https://supermotors.net/getfile/998125/thumbnail/stethoscope.jpgI don't know what Intake is on it, need to figure that out...Post lots of pics.The packaging claims "increase power!" but that is just an advertising gimmick...Right - it's dead weight. No more useful than magnets around the fuel lines, or a mason jar with electric wires connected to the intake. Sell it or toss it. Update: well i finally got somewhere, my local parts store did not have the gasket for my 4160 Holley so I decided to use the one that was included with that spacer kit (I did not install the spacer, just used that gasket that was part of the kit). She cranked up very briefly and died out because the mixture screws were closed, so I backed them out 1.5 turns on each side and she runs somewhat decent. I need to go purchase a vacuum gauge so that will be something I do tomorrow but for now it appears that the carb/manifold gasket was the first issue. I figure now I can dial in the carb then start attaching the various vacuum lines one by one and see how it goes from there. Thank you all for the assistance and knowledge sharing! I can spray the back end of the carb now with starter fluid and there is no change to idle, so that is also a good thing and I should be on the right track now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 8, 2019 Share Posted April 8, 2019 Update: well i finally got somewhere, my local parts store did not have the gasket for my 4160 Holley so I decided to use the one that was included with that spacer kit (I did not install the spacer, just used that gasket that was part of the kit). She cranked up very briefly and died out because the mixture screws were closed, so I backed them out 1.5 turns on each side and she runs somewhat decent. I need to go purchase a vacuum gauge so that will be something I do tomorrow but for now it appears that the carb/manifold gasket was the first issue. I figure now I can dial in the carb then start attaching the various vacuum lines one by one and see how it goes from there. Thank you all for the assistance and knowledge sharing! I can spray the back end of the carb now with starter fluid and there is no change to idle, so that is also a good thing and I should be on the right track now. Yippee! Congrat's! But, before you dial the idle mix screws in perfectly you should at least connect the PCV hose. That's because that is a metered vacuum leak, and you need to account for that air in your idle mix setting. Also, when you connect the vacuum line to the distributor you need to think about which port on the carb to use. If you use the one that has manifold vacuum your idle speed will shoot up due to the extra advance. I recommend you use the one that doesn't have vacuum at idle but does any place above idle. And, I really do not think you should have a vacuum line coming out of the carb and going to that vacuum tree. I am very sure that is not correct for this carb. I'd leave that fitting on the tree capped and if the one on the carb isn't the ported one for the vacuum advance then cap it as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstone4646 Posted April 8, 2019 Author Share Posted April 8, 2019 Yippee! Congrat's! But, before you dial the idle mix screws in perfectly you should at least connect the PCV hose. That's because that is a metered vacuum leak, and you need to account for that air in your idle mix setting. Also, when you connect the vacuum line to the distributor you need to think about which port on the carb to use. If you use the one that has manifold vacuum your idle speed will shoot up due to the extra advance. I recommend you use the one that doesn't have vacuum at idle but does any place above idle. And, I really do not think you should have a vacuum line coming out of the carb and going to that vacuum tree. I am very sure that is not correct for this carb. I'd leave that fitting on the tree capped and if the one on the carb isn't the ported one for the vacuum advance then cap it as well. Well I spoke too soon, she's still high....better, a lot better but still high. Right around 900-920 high. Where before the gasket and vacuum plugging she was about 1250-1350. If I pull on the throttle linkage towards the front of the truck the idle will drop a little but it takes a significant amount of force. My throttle linkage is not resting on the idle adjust either, it just takes some significant force that no return spring would hold unless it was seriously heavy duty. I also found that the electric choke is NOT wired up. There is not a hit wire going to the choke assembly, only the ground, so my choke plate is staying at maybe 1/4" open. Video to follow shortly. Video update: my phone won't let me link an embedded video so until I can get to my PC here is the link Ignore my stupidity in the video...35T...35...7...duh 351 Update: manifold is an Edelbrock Performer 351 without egr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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