E4OD For Dad’s Truck

[Ford F834]

Jim - Yes, the proper connectors are fine. But I've never seen the proper connectors used on one of these trucks.

All - Jonathan's asked me about the transmission gear indicator, so I thought I'd discuss it a bit more here. I'd thought I could use an AOD indicator, and may well be able to do so. However, as shown below, the E4OD's positions are OD, 2, and 1, with 3 being achieved in the OD position with the OD turned off. However, the AOD has OD, D, 1. In other words, if I use this AOD indicator I'll have "D" showing when it is in 2nd gear.

However, Jonathan pointed out that there were two different indicators for the AOD/AOT, and sure enough: E1TZ 7A110-A for 1981/82; and E3TZ 7A110-A for 1983/86. So, does someone have a pic of the "other" one? I don't know which one I have.

Also, Bill had mentioned using the 90's indicator in Dad's truck. But they aren't nearly a bolt-in, as seen below. So, Bill, what did you have in mind?

Gary, I looked at my shift indicator and it seems like I may have the earlier one. The engineering number on it is E0TF-7B033, and the OD position on the face looks different than yours. Yours has a very narrow elliptical shape whereas mine is more oblong with rounded corners with the D inside. Very minor difference but it supports that we may have one of each.

As you know there is not much to these, and the needle moves linearly with the cable. Are the "notches" defined by the column or the transmission? I see that the E4OD indicator has fairly even spacing between the gears while the AOD indicator has the 1 set out a bit to the left. I was just curious if the two AOD versions had the same spacing or if that could be a possible difference? My perception is that both pics of our AOD indicators and C6 style indicator all look about the same, but that is just a perception.

It would seem to me that a C6 indicator would be more "correct" with D simply being drive/overdrive depending on your switch. You could potentially wire it so that OD "off" illuminated the upshift indicator in the indicator light bank???

Here are pics of my shift indicator:

 

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, I looked at my shift indicator and it seems like I may have the earlier one. The engineering number on it is E0TF-7B033, and the OD position on the face looks different than yours. Yours has a very narrow elliptical shape whereas mine is more oblong with rounded corners with the D inside. Very minor difference but it supports that we may have one of each.

As you know there is not much to these, and the needle moves linearly with the cable. Are the "notches" defined by the column or the transmission? I see that the E4OD indicator has fairly even spacing between the gears while the AOD indicator has the 1 set out a bit to the left. I was just curious if the two AOD versions had the same spacing or if that could be a possible difference? My perception is that both pics of our AOD indicators and C6 style indicator all look about the same, but that is just a perception.

It would seem to me that a C6 indicator would be more "correct" with D simply being drive/overdrive depending on your switch. You could potentially wire it so that OD "off" illuminated the upshift indicator in the indicator light bank???

Here are pics of my shift indicator:

I think I agree that the C6 indicator is the best bet, unless Bill tells me how to use the E4 OD one. I checked the overall travel and the AOD one moves about 1 1/4” from Park to 1st, and the E4OD one about 1 1/2”. So there may be a problem making a non-E4 indicator display the right gear.

But, that does bring up your question about where the notches are. I’ll check the huck tomorrow, but I think they are in the tranny. So, assuming that the Bullnose column has the same range of motion as the later columns, a Bullnose column coupled with a later indicator may work well.

[Ford F834]

I think I agree that the C6 indicator is the best bet, unless Bill tells me how to use the E4 OD one. I checked the overall travel and the AOD one moves about 1 1/4” from Park to 1st, and the E4OD one about 1 1/2”. So there may be a problem making a non-E4 indicator display the right gear.

But, that does bring up your question about where the notches are. I’ll check the huck tomorrow, but I think they are in the tranny. So, assuming that the Bullnose column has the same range of motion as the later columns, a Bullnose column coupled with a later indicator may work well.

It would be a shame to loose the bullnose cosmetics, waffle pattern background/raised letters and needle style indicator, but at some point you have to favor function over cosmetics. If the C6 one would read all wonky then that would probably be worse than one that is cosmetically mis-matched. Evidently you adjust it in relation to the "drive" position notch?

http://broncozone.com/topic/20311-gear-shift-indicator/

[Gary Lewis]

It would be a shame to loose the bullnose cosmetics, waffle pattern background/raised letters and needle style indicator, but at some point you have to favor function over cosmetics. If the C6 one would read all wonky then that would probably be worse than one that is cosmetically mis-matched. Evidently you adjust it in relation to the "drive" position notch?

http://broncozone.com/topic/20311-gear-shift-indicator/

I agree it would be a shame to lose the aesthetics. So I'm hoping the C6 one will work. Plus, it is the easiest one to use.

As for adjusting, I've read those directions before, but in the end wound up placing it in Park on the column and the tranny, and adjusting the linkage to go together. Then I adjusted the indicator and all was good. Anyway, thanks.

[Ken Blythen]

I agree it would be a shame to lose the aesthetics. So I'm hoping the C6 one will work. Plus, it is the easiest one to use.

As for adjusting, I've read those directions before, but in the end wound up placing it in Park on the column and the tranny, and adjusting the linkage to go together. Then I adjusted the indicator and all was good. Anyway, thanks.

Gary, I had the same problem when I temporarily swapped a C6 into my truck in place of the original failing AOD.

The C6 was from an Econoline van & had a longer selector lever on the side of the transmission....so I shortened it to match the original AOD lever.

 

This gave the correct travel distance between each indicator symbol (P-R-N-OD-D-1), & also the lever positions down on the transmission.

I still had the AOD indicator on the dash, but the longer term plan was for the current T19 anyway.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, I had the same problem when I temporarily swapped a C6 into my truck in place of the original failing AOD.

The C6 was from an Econoline van & had a longer selector lever on the side of the transmission....so I shortened it to match the original AOD lever.

 

This gave the correct travel distance between each indicator symbol (P-R-N-OD-D-1), & also the lever positions down on the transmission.

I still had the AOD indicator on the dash, but the longer term plan was for the current T19 anyway.

Interesting! Hadn’t thought about there being different levers. But as my E4 is from an F250 it probably has the correct lever. Still, that’s something to consider. Thanks, Ken.

[85lebaront2]

Interesting! Hadn’t thought about there being different levers. But as my E4 is from an F250 it probably has the correct lever. Still, that’s something to consider. Thanks, Ken.

The key is that it has a mechanical linkage instead of a cable.

[Gary Lewis]

The key is that it has a mechanical linkage instead of a cable.

Bill - I missed your comment. Yes, the E4OD that I have from the '90 has a rod-style linkage so will work with the Bullnose shifter.

And, I remembered to scope out the relay boxes that I have. As shown below, I have the boxes:

• A 4-place box, shown at the top with ???, but I don't know the origin. It has places for 3 Bosch-style relays, and one high-current relay (F80B-14B192-AA) given its blade sizes. I'm thinking this might be a good box for both the headlight relays and the fan relays - assuming I go with electric fans.

• An 89/90 Taurus/Sable, shown on the left. It is too big for just the headlights and fans.

• A mid-90's F150, with an attached external box. The main box has places for 3 small relays and 3 Bosch relays. The smaller box has places for 6 smaller relays, although only 4 are wired, and 1 Bosch.

• The 1995 F450 that Jim parted out, and it has places for 5 Bosch relays.

So, I think I may go with the 4-place box and plan to use it for both the headlights and the fan.

[85lebaront2]

Bill - I missed your comment. Yes, the E4OD that I have from the '90 has a rod-style linkage so will work with the Bullnose shifter.

And, I remembered to scope out the relay boxes that I have. As shown below, I have the boxes:

• A 4-place box, shown at the top with ???, but I don't know the origin. It has places for 3 Bosch-style relays, and one high-current relay (F80B-14B192-AA) given its blade sizes. I'm thinking this might be a good box for both the headlight relays and the fan relays - assuming I go with electric fans.

• An 89/90 Taurus/Sable, shown on the left. It is too big for just the headlights and fans.

• A mid-90's F150, with an attached external box. The main box has places for 3 small relays and 3 Bosch relays. The smaller box has places for 6 smaller relays, although only 4 are wired, and 1 Bosch.

• The 1995 F450 that Jim parted out, and it has places for 5 Bosch relays.

So, I think I may go with the 4-place box and plan to use it for both the headlights and the fan.

First. how far does the 1990 E4OD indicator move? If it has the same travel as the C6, why couldn't you make a new back for it with the correct letters, or maybe just do a circle or oval white area with the black D in it or a circle around the D to make it an OD?

Relay box, I agree with the mystery 4 relay box, however, if you have low and high speed fans, and as the Brits say main and dipped beam, you will have what you need, if you want a Bosch starter relay, well, you need 5 unless you are only going to use a relay on the main beam.

[Gary Lewis]

First. how far does the 1990 E4OD indicator move? If it has the same travel as the C6, why couldn't you make a new back for it with the correct letters, or maybe just do a circle or oval white area with the black D in it or a circle around the D to make it an OD?

Relay box, I agree with the mystery 4 relay box, however, if you have low and high speed fans, and as the Brits say main and dipped beam, you will have what you need, if you want a Bosch starter relay, well, you need 5 unless you are only going to use a relay on the main beam.

Bill - I'm not sure what you are suggesting on the indicator. Make a new back for the C6 or the E4OD one?

Anyway, the AOD one moves about 1 1/4” from Park to 1st, and I assume the C6 one does as well, while the E4OD one moves about 1 1/2”. So, I may have a problem using the C6 one as the overall travel will probably make it hard to calibrate both ends of the scale.

On the relays, I thought I was still going to have a "later style flat relay" as a starter solenoid on the right fender to which the main feeds connect. I got that from your post here. What am I missing? And, do you have a pic of one of those "later style flat relays"?