E4OD For Dad’s Truck

[ArdWrknTrk]

It was supposed to go yesterday, but some imbecile in a light plane flew right into the clearly designated FAA no-fly zone, hope he enjoyed his time as a pilot, because in addition to violating the no-fly zone, he ignored radio messages to leave. As a result the launch was scrubbed till today.

Yeah I know, I'm a rocket geek and I follow all this stuff

 

On Nov 12, 2017 1:45 PM, "85lebaront2 [via Bullnose Enthusiasts]" <redacted_email_address> wrote:

 

 

 

[85lebaront2]

Nope, don't need pics.

Seriously though, that should be a good test. I should do the same with Big Blue, which doesn't have relays, and then stick the relays in the circuit and go again. It would be an interesting comparison.

Ok, Gary, I have the readings. I forgot that when I put the 1999 Crown Victoria Lighting Control Module (LCM) that the 40 amp Maxi fuse in slot #19 changed to a 10 amp breaker so I wasn't able to get a voltage reading there.

Readings are as follows:

Vbat - 14.79 VDC

PDC stud 14.70 VDC

High beam wire 13.19 VDC

Low beam wire 13.55 VDC

Ground wire 0.163 VDC

All readings except low beam taken engine running at idle lights on high beam with a Fluke model 75 DMM

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, Gary, I have the readings. I forgot that when I put the 1999 Crown Victoria Lighting Control Module (LCM) that the 40 amp Maxi fuse in slot #19 changed to a 10 amp breaker so I wasn't able to get a voltage reading there.

Readings are as follows:

Vbat - 14.79 VDC

PDC stud 14.70 VDC

High beam wire 13.19 VDC

Low beam wire 13.55 VDC

Ground wire 0.163 VDC

All readings except low beam taken engine running at idle lights on high beam with a Fluke model 75 DMM

You are forgiven on the fuse/breaker.

Ok, translating:

• .09v drop from the battery to the PDC stud. Very good, and better than what I expect across a fusible link

• 1.51v drop from the PDC stud out to the high beam. By the way, which light did you meansure?

• 1.15v drop from the PDC stud to the low beam. Ditto which one?

I'll have to measure Big Blue. Thanks!

 

[Gary Lewis]

You are forgiven on the fuse/breaker.

Ok, translating:

• .09v drop from the battery to the PDC stud. Very good, and better than what I expect across a fusible link

• 1.51v drop from the PDC stud out to the high beam. By the way, which light did you meansure?

• 1.15v drop from the PDC stud to the low beam. Ditto which one?

I'll have to measure Big Blue. Thanks!

Ok, here are my readings compared to Bill's. These are taken off of Big Blue w/a 1G alternator and stock wiring.

READING Bill Big Blue

Vbat: 14.79 14.38

High Beam Voltage 13.19 13.38

High Beam Loss (V) 1.60 1.00

High Beam Percent 89.2% 93.0%

Low Beam Voltage 13.55 13.65

Low Beam Loss (V) 1.16 .73

Low Beam Percent 91.2% 94.9%

 

Ground Rise (V) .163 .21 (high beam)

[85lebaront2]

You are forgiven on the fuse/breaker.

Ok, translating:

• .09v drop from the battery to the PDC stud. Very good, and better than what I expect across a fusible link

• 1.51v drop from the PDC stud out to the high beam. By the way, which light did you meansure?

• 1.15v drop from the PDC stud to the low beam. Ditto which one?

I'll have to measure Big Blue. Thanks!

I measured the right side, on the later harness it is (a) furthest distance and (b) in front of the battery so it was right next to my ground.

I also have the 1990 Halogen bulbs in the composite headlight assembly.

[Gary Lewis]

I measured the right side, on the later harness it is (a) furthest distance and (b) in front of the battery so it was right next to my ground.

I also have the 1990 Halogen bulbs in the composite headlight assembly.

I, too, measured the right side bulb. But, I have the earlier halogen bulbs. Don't know what the differences are, but surely they are rated the same or DOT wouldn't have allowed them.

Anyway, from the above I don't see a compelling reason to change to the later wiring. Having said that, I suppose I will as I don't want two sets of wiring going to the headlights, and it doesn't look easy to take wires out of the 1990's harness, so assume the 1996 harness will be the same. And, I need the 1996 harness to go to the starter solenoid so the computer and fuel pump get power. So, if I want only one set I'll have to take the wires out of the 1981 harness.

But, what this tells me is that I want to put a pair of relays in the PDC for the headlights, which will take the load off the headlight switch and 30+ year-old wiring. Looking at the info you sent me on the underhood PDC, below, there are two relays not used and a third that probably doesn't exist but could be put in place. So, I may use the horn relay and trailer marker lights relay positions for the headlights.

[85lebaront2]

I, too, measured the right side bulb. But, I have the earlier halogen bulbs. Don't know what the differences are, but surely they are rated the same or DOT wouldn't have allowed them.

Anyway, from the above I don't see a compelling reason to change to the later wiring. Having said that, I suppose I will as I don't want two sets of wiring going to the headlights, and it doesn't look easy to take wires out of the 1990's harness, so assume the 1996 harness will be the same. And, I need the 1996 harness to go to the starter solenoid so the computer and fuel pump get power. So, if I want only one set I'll have to take the wires out of the 1981 harness.

But, what this tells me is that I want to put a pair of relays in the PDC for the headlights, which will take the load off the headlight switch and 30+ year-old wiring. Looking at the info you sent me on the underhood PDC, below, there are two relays not used and a third that probably doesn't exist but could be put in place. So, I may use the horn relay and trailer marker lights relay positions for the headlights.

Ok, I figured you would keep the original horn setup. Trailer marker light relay I would keep, it unloads the headlight switch and has a separate fuse. If you need it I have an extra Bronco auxiliary relay box, it takes 4 Bosch relays, I use the two shown under the PDC as designated, and the other two I use for left and right stop/turn trailer lights. On the dually, the marker lamp function of the trailer/marker lamps relay is used for the fender and rear marker lamps.

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, I figured you would keep the original horn setup. Trailer marker light relay I would keep, it unloads the headlight switch and has a separate fuse. If you need it I have an extra Bronco auxiliary relay box, it takes 4 Bosch relays, I use the two shown under the PDC as designated, and the other two I use for left and right stop/turn trailer lights. On the dually, the marker lamp function of the trailer/marker lamps relay is used for the fender and rear marker lamps.

I hadn’t thought about trailer lights on Dad’s truck. Or, maybe I should say I need to rethink trailer lighting. That’s because I’d planned to not have trailer wiring. But, as I look down the road, if it isn’t there then someone is going to install a trailer connector - and use insulation-displacement connectors. 😩

So, providing a proper trailer harness is probably wise. Maybe not with the full-blown trailering package, but at least so a light trailer can be connected.

On the Bronco aux relay box, let me see what I have as I may have something. But thanks for the offer. I’ll keep it in mind.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I hadn’t thought about trailer lights on Dad’s truck. Or, maybe I should say I need to rethink trailer lighting. That’s because I’d planned to not have trailer wiring. But, as I look down the road, if it isn’t there then someone is going to install a trailer connector - and use insulation-displacement connectors. 😩

So, providing a proper trailer harness is probably wise. Maybe not with the full-blown trailering package, but at least so a light trailer can be connected.

On the Bronco aux relay box, let me see what I have as I may have something. But thanks for the offer. I’ll keep it in mind.

There's really nothing wrong with Posi-tap connectors as long as you fill them with silicone grease first.

Scotchlok and the even more pathetic knockoffs are at the other end of the spectrum.

[Gary Lewis]

There's really nothing wrong with Posi-tap connectors as long as you fill them with silicone grease first.

Scotchlok and the even more pathetic knockoffs are at the other end of the spectrum.

Jim - Yes, the proper connectors are fine. But I've never seen the proper connectors used on one of these trucks.

All - Jonathan's asked me about the transmission gear indicator, so I thought I'd discuss it a bit more here. I'd thought I could use an AOD indicator, and may well be able to do so. However, as shown below, the E4OD's positions are OD, 2, and 1, with 3 being achieved in the OD position with the OD turned off. However, the AOD has OD, D, 1. In other words, if I use this AOD indicator I'll have "D" showing when it is in 2nd gear.

However, Jonathan pointed out that there were two different indicators for the AOD/AOT, and sure enough: E1TZ 7A110-A for 1981/82; and E3TZ 7A110-A for 1983/86. So, does someone have a pic of the "other" one? I don't know which one I have.

Also, Bill had mentioned using the 90's indicator in Dad's truck. But they aren't nearly a bolt-in, as seen below. So, Bill, what did you have in mind?