E4OD For Dad’s Truck

[85lebaront2]

Bill,

Which Innovate are you using.

The 3891???

Jim, I think mine is the LM-1, I will have to look at it tomorrow.

[85lebaront2]

I'm not sure if you are telling Ray or me to hang onto the DRL module, but I sure don't need it so he might as well. Which means I'll need the jumpers, either from you or from the salvage I'm sure to frequent.

So, your Innovate goes directly to your PC? My AEM will apparently have to go through a A/D converter and then to the computer. Or, at least I think that is what Adam was saying. But I need to read up on the AEM so I understand.

But, I'm glad the dongle works via the adapter as I'm going with a Microsoft Surface Pro, and it only has one USB port. My big laptop has two ports, but I'd rather use the tablet due to its smaller size.

Two things, your huck might have one, the 1990 parts truck I bought did.

On the computer, I just bought a new HP 17" laptop to replace my 11 year old one that was getting cranky and I don't want to deal with a dual boot on my new MacBook Pro.

My Innovate has a serial cable and I use a serial to USB cable to connect to the laptop. Then in my hardware license I have the Innovate in it so it goes directly into the data log.

[Gary Lewis]

Two things, your huck might have one, the 1990 parts truck I bought did.

On the computer, I just bought a new HP 17" laptop to replace my 11 year old one that was getting cranky and I don't want to deal with a dual boot on my new MacBook Pro.

My Innovate has a serial cable and I use a serial to USB cable to connect to the laptop. Then in my hardware license I have the Innovate in it so it goes directly into the data log.

What am I looking for on the DRL cable? Any pics?

And I agree with dual-booting - it isn’t worth it. I had a MacBook and needed Windows for my CAD program. But by the time I ran Windows and Mac OS there wasn’t much power left. I’m happy with my fairly-new Windows machine. And now I’m retiring this iPad for a Windows tablet.

[85lebaront2]

What am I looking for on the DRL cable? Any pics?

And I agree with dual-booting - it isn’t worth it. I had a MacBook and needed Windows for my CAD program. But by the time I ran Windows and Mac OS there wasn’t much power left. I’m happy with my fairly-new Windows machine. And now I’m retiring this iPad for a Windows tablet.

No, but it would be on the left side down behind the bumper area and will have a oval plug into a blanking socket. It will come off the cross radiator harness.

[Gary Lewis]

No, but it would be on the left side down behind the bumper area and will have a oval plug into a blanking socket. It will come off the cross radiator harness.

I'll look tomorrow. Thanks.

[NotEnoughTrucks]

I'll look tomorrow. Thanks.

Wish I was at the beach. Cold snap this last week along with 6" of snow. Supposed to warm up this weekend, snow may melt. November and December usually are cold and dry.

The DRL module likely won't be an issue for adding EECV. The lighting circuits are contained within this harness, but will likely be combed out as you modify the harness to accommodate the underseat mounting position. Light circuits will still be served by the original truck wiring.

What may be of interest is that all the power feeds to that power distribution box come along the length of the harness from the starter solenoid. I'm sure some of this will be modified as you fit the harness to your application.

That module is still very common around here. Canada legislated their use back in the 90's and I recall a period of time where this was very controversial as the US market vehicles did not have this. As this truck was a scrapyard find, I cannot confirm that the module was working. When they failed, the lights would stay on. If it was connected, the module was likely OK the last time the vehicle was operational. I probably have a lifetime supply already.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Wish I was at the beach. Cold snap this last week along with 6" of snow. Supposed to warm up this weekend, snow may melt. November and December usually are cold and dry.

The DRL module likely won't be an issue for adding EECV. The lighting circuits are contained within this harness, but will likely be combed out as you modify the harness to accommodate the underseat mounting position. Light circuits will still be served by the original truck wiring.

What may be of interest is that all the power feeds to that power distribution box come along the length of the harness from the starter solenoid. I'm sure some of this will be modified as you fit the harness to your application.

That module is still very common around here. Canada legislated their use back in the 90's and I recall a period of time where this was very controversial as the US market vehicles did not have this. As this truck was a scrapyard find, I cannot confirm that the module was working. When they failed, the lights would stay on. If it was connected, the module was likely OK the last time the vehicle was operational. I probably have a lifetime supply already.

You are implying that snow may not melt, that it may stay all winter. 🙈

As for the DRL, if you don’t need it then I’ll deal with it. But, if there’s nothing hooked to the light wiring does the computer throw codes? And I’m trying to get my head around what Bill was saying about needing the DRL bypass jumper.

On the power feed, that power distribution box appears to sit on the left inner fender, but it gets its power from the starter solenoid, which sits on the right side. So, in ‘96 there was still the big starter solenoid? I was hoping to eliminate that solenoid and run a PMGR starter with a smaller relay. Hmmmm.

Also, I was planning to have the main power distribution box on the right fender to house relays and fuses for things like the headlights, HVAC blower, etc. So, maybe I can fuse the power feeds going across the radiator from there. But, is suspect I’ll still need the power distribution box on the left fender as, I’m assuming, that’s where many of the relays are that the EEC-V computer will be running. Right?

Or, maybe I can use the one you are sending to house the relays and just put a smaller one on the right side for the few fuses I need. Or, just use yours for the fuses and relays I need and use the tried and true starter solenoid and fusible links and minimize the work and change?

[85lebaront2]

You are implying that snow may not melt, that it may stay all winter. 🙈

As for the DRL, if you don’t need it then I’ll deal with it. But, if there’s nothing hooked to the light wiring does the computer throw codes? And I’m trying to get my head around what Bill was saying about needing the DRL bypass jumper.

On the power feed, that power distribution box appears to sit on the left inner fender, but it gets its power from the starter solenoid, which sits on the right side. So, in ‘96 there was still the big starter solenoid? I was hoping to eliminate that solenoid and run a PMGR starter with a smaller relay. Hmmmm.

Also, I was planning to have the main power distribution box on the right fender to house relays and fuses for things like the headlights, HVAC blower, etc. So, maybe I can fuse the power feeds going across the radiator from there. But, is suspect I’ll still need the power distribution box on the left fender as, I’m assuming, that’s where many of the relays are that the EEC-V computer will be running. Right?

Or, maybe I can use the one you are sending to house the relays and just put a smaller one on the right side for the few fuses I need. Or, just use yours for the fuses and relays I need and use the tried and true starter solenoid and fusible links and minimize the work and change?

Gary, the PDC on the later trucks houses all the inside feeds and includes the horn relay, EEC power relay (feeds all the solenoids on the engine, injectors, IAC etc.) attached to it's mounting bracket is the 42 pin engine connector (C101). The fender relay is one of the later style flat relays, you could simply use the ring terminal on the dual fusible links to attach to a battery cable end like many Japanese cars use or remove them, add a good size terminal and use a nice big mega fuse. The infeed to the PDC is protected by fusible links due to it's location, running across the front end over the radiator area. This prevents it from shorting out in a collision.

On the DRL bypass, if either the DRL module or the jumper is not installed, no low beams. It is not in any way tied to the EEC. Still haven't found where I put the 1996 EVTM.

[NotEnoughTrucks]

Gary, the PDC on the later trucks houses all the inside feeds and includes the horn relay, EEC power relay (feeds all the solenoids on the engine, injectors, IAC etc.) attached to it's mounting bracket is the 42 pin engine connector (C101). The fender relay is one of the later style flat relays, you could simply use the ring terminal on the dual fusible links to attach to a battery cable end like many Japanese cars use or remove them, add a good size terminal and use a nice big mega fuse. The infeed to the PDC is protected by fusible links due to it's location, running across the front end over the radiator area. This prevents it from shorting out in a collision.

On the DRL bypass, if either the DRL module or the jumper is not installed, no low beams. It is not in any way tied to the EEC. Still haven't found where I put the 1996 EVTM.

I'm pretty sure the relative position of the various components will change greatly. No reason the PDC box could not be mounted to the right fender, or dispensed with entirely should you choose some other method of power distribution. Your 90 huck likely has a small bank of relays on the L inner fender. These are the PCM power relay and fuel pump relay. For the purposes of EFI, this is all you need, but there are a lot of circuits you can address with that PDC from the 96 truck.

What I am planning to do with my truck is to build my own PDC. I want to incorporate relays for headlights, HVAC fan, ECM power and fuel pump. I like the idea of mega fuses as opposed to fusible links and would incorporate this as well.

That starter relay has been a common feature of Ford vehicles, but the 96 used a PMG starter and those had a solenoid/bendix throwout much like a GM starter. Result is you have the fender relay controlling the coil on the starter mounted solenoid as opposed to the older starters where the entire starter current passed through the fender mounted relay.

And yes, the snow may be here to stay.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, the PDC on the later trucks houses all the inside feeds and includes the horn relay, EEC power relay (feeds all the solenoids on the engine, injectors, IAC etc.) attached to it's mounting bracket is the 42 pin engine connector (C101). The fender relay is one of the later style flat relays, you could simply use the ring terminal on the dual fusible links to attach to a battery cable end like many Japanese cars use or remove them, add a good size terminal and use a nice big mega fuse. The infeed to the PDC is protected by fusible links due to it's location, running across the front end over the radiator area. This prevents it from shorting out in a collision.

On the DRL bypass, if either the DRL module or the jumper is not installed, no low beams. It is not in any way tied to the EEC. Still haven't found where I put the 1996 EVTM.

Bill - Thanks for the clarification. On the easy bit, if I’m driving the headlights with the truck’s original headlight switch plus some relays then there’s no worry about the DRL, with or without bypassing.

On the PDC, that ‘96 version should work out well. I may even be able to move the power feeds to the cab to it, using real fuses and eliminate the fusible links. Hmmm, if that harness has the headlight wires like the 90’s harness does then they’ll be fed by relays in the PDC and all I have to do is to trigger them with the headlight switch and dimmer switch. 👍

As for the solenoid, I don’t know what the flat one looks like, but I think one of those and a megafuse should work nicely. That solenoid is surely set up to handle a PMGR starter.