E4OD For Dad’s Truck

[85lebaront2]

I heard from Brandon's friend/neighbor Steve today. But I don't fully understand his response, so could use some help.

I sent him this list of Baumann's suggested upgrades saying I wanted to make sure they are included:

• Improved (thicker) converter clutch piston (circa 1994), prevents the formation of cracks which relieve fluid pressure from the apply side of the clutch, causing it to slip and even bluing the outside surface of the torque converter in extreme cases. Ensure that your new converter contains an updated OEM or "LuK" brand heavy-duty clutch. This can be difficult, as many torque converter suppliers and remanufacturers may not use this new style of clutch.

• Higher displacement front pump (for 1995) provides more fluid capacity for faster engagement of reverse and greater lube flow.

• New (for 1994) 4-pinion overdrive planet and input shaft assemblies replace older 3 and 4 pinion units which tend to develop cracks in the carrier under heavy loads.

• Center support update kit (for units built from 1989 through part of 1994) replaces wear-prone bushing with a ball bearing and contains a new overdrive stub shaft.

• Stronger overdrive clutch cylinder snap ring which will not dislodge.

• Revised sun gear and rear case bushings (circa 1992 model year) provide longer wear life and better lubrication.

• 4 pinion planet carriers (first used in 1992 model year)

• New forward clutch friction plates with hardened internal splines cure "chatter" and "no-drive" conditions in E4OD and some later C-6 transmissions.

And I got the following response:

The shift kit comes with the new updated snap rings, the converter is the updated clutch disc, The forward clutches are the later ones, The center support, stub shaft , and the 1995 later pump

With the roller bearing is $192.00. I install new sun gear and case bushings in each build. The total price for the parts and labor and supplies is $2200.00.

So, did he say all of the things are included?

Gary, it looks like he is addressing everything, since mentions replacing all the case bushings. Everything else he pretty well covers in his list here:

The shift kit comes with the new updated snap rings, the converter is the updated clutch disc, The forward clutches are the later ones, The center support, stub shaft , and the 1995 later pump

With the roller bearing is $192.00. I install new sun gear and case bushings in each build. The total price for the parts and labor and supplies is $2200.00.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, it looks like he is addressing everything, since mentions replacing all the case bushings. Everything else he pretty well covers in his list here:

The shift kit comes with the new updated snap rings, the converter is the updated clutch disc, The forward clutches are the later ones, The center support, stub shaft , and the 1995 later pump

With the roller bearing is $192.00. I install new sun gear and case bushings in each build. The total price for the parts and labor and supplies is $2200.00.

Bill - Thanks! I just needed someone to translate as I'm not au fait with the internals of an automagic tranny.

But, you also said in the email "Ask him if he has a later deep pan so you can have the reusable gasket. On the external stuff, look at the neutral safety/back up light switch, if it looks like the connector has been replaced, good, there is a TSB on using the updated switch due to water intrusion. If you can get it off easily, save the RWAL actuator, I think the residual pressure check valve for the rear brakes is in it and I may need it to solve a minor brake issue on Darth, but then if you install the later MC on yours, it may be needed there."

So, first, what is a RWAL actuator?

Second, do only the later pans have the reusable gaskets? And, do they have a drain plug?

As for the NSS/backup light switch and connector, here's what I have. Is it the updated one?

[grumpin]

Bill - Thanks! I just needed someone to translate as I'm not au fait with the internals of an automagic tranny.

But, you also said in the email "Ask him if he has a later deep pan so you can have the reusable gasket. On the external stuff, look at the neutral safety/back up light switch, if it looks like the connector has been replaced, good, there is a TSB on using the updated switch due to water intrusion. If you can get it off easily, save the RWAL actuator, I think the residual pressure check valve for the rear brakes is in it and I may need it to solve a minor brake issue on Darth, but then if you install the later MC on yours, it may be needed there."

So, first, what is a RWAL actuator?

Second, do only the later pans have the reusable gaskets? And, do they have a drain plug?

As for the NSS/backup light switch and connector, here's what I have. Is it the updated one?

Not to interfere, but to let you know I bought reusable gaskets for my E4OD and C6.

I have not installed them yet, so no review. Have one on the Suburban and I like it.

And I believe only the later pans have a drain plug.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-93105/applications

[Gary Lewis]

Not to interfere, but to let you know I bought reusable gaskets for my E4OD and C6.

I have not installed them yet, so no review. Have one on the Suburban and I like it.

And I believe only the later pans have a drain plug.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-93105/applications

That's not interfering. Not at all. So, thanks!

I'll check with him on a pan, but whatever goes on will have a drain plug. If he doesn't have one that does, and if I decide to go with him, I'll order in a Trick Flow cast aluminum one.

Anyway, made some progress today. As you can see, the tranny is out. And, that's a transmission! It measures 32" long, a full 6" longer than the ZF5. Glad I got the driveshafts that go with it. And the rear mount is 6" farther aft than for a ZF5, which is already 1" farther aft than for a C6. So, glad I also got the crossmember for that as part of the deal.

And, THAT'S a torque converter!

[grumpin]

That's not interfering. Not at all. So, thanks!

I'll check with him on a pan, but whatever goes on will have a drain plug. If he doesn't have one that does, and if I decide to go with him, I'll order in a Trick Flow cast aluminum one.

Anyway, made some progress today. As you can see, the tranny is out. And, that's a transmission! It measures 32" long, a full 6" longer than the ZF5. Glad I got the driveshafts that go with it. And the rear mount is 6" farther aft than for a ZF5, which is already 1" farther aft than for a C6. So, glad I also got the crossmember for that as part of the deal.

And, THAT'S a torque converter!

What a brute!

You wouldn't think they'd be weak!

[Gary Lewis]

What a brute!

You wouldn't think they'd be weak!

I'm not sure they ever were truly weak. The transmissions were only used in trucks, motorhomes, etc and they were used behind big engines. But, there were a number of upgrades, and those were due to problems. So, hopefully when it is upgraded it will be stout.

[grumpin]

I'm not sure they ever were truly weak. The transmissions were only used in trucks, motorhomes, etc and they were used behind big engines. But, there were a number of upgrades, and those were due to problems. So, hopefully when it is upgraded it will be stout.

Yeah, weak is a poor choice of a word!

I'm sure yours will be great! Can't wait to hear how it goes!

[85lebaront2]

Yeah, weak is a poor choice of a word!

I'm sure yours will be great! Can't wait to hear how it goes!

Big problem with them is heat, the converter is a higher stall speed than a C6, so when not in lockup will generate a ton of heat, you can actually boil the fluid in one stall testing it. The secret is to redo the computer program to lock up earlier and stay in lockup. Mine is set to take 80% of full throttle to unlock, it will downshift almost immediately like that. The gears in it are beefed up wide ratio C6 innards and the length of the case is due to the fact that the OD unit is in front of the main gearset. I am using the one from the 1990 parts truck I bought with nothing done except fluid and filter changes.

[85lebaront2]

Bill - Thanks! I just needed someone to translate as I'm not au fait with the internals of an automagic tranny.

But, you also said in the email "Ask him if he has a later deep pan so you can have the reusable gasket. On the external stuff, look at the neutral safety/back up light switch, if it looks like the connector has been replaced, good, there is a TSB on using the updated switch due to water intrusion. If you can get it off easily, save the RWAL actuator, I think the residual pressure check valve for the rear brakes is in it and I may need it to solve a minor brake issue on Darth, but then if you install the later MC on yours, it may be needed there."

So, first, what is a RWAL actuator?

Second, do only the later pans have the reusable gaskets? And, do they have a drain plug?

As for the NSS/backup light switch and connector, here's what I have. Is it the updated one?

The later pan does not have the rib for the cork/rubber gasket, started in 1994 or 1995. To my knowledge none of the factory pans have drain plugs. The gasket is a standard Ford part and should be easily available aftermarket. It is molded rubber over metal with rings at the bolt holes so it can be torqued properly.

RWAL = Rear Wheel Anti Lock. Just found that F450 did not have it, plug goes into a dummy connector to keep it from dangling.

[Gary Lewis]

The later pan does not have the rib for the cork/rubber gasket, started in 1994 or 1995. To my knowledge none of the factory pans have drain plugs. The gasket is a standard Ford part and should be easily available aftermarket. It is molded rubber over metal with rings at the bolt holes so it can be torqued properly.

RWAL = Rear Wheel Anti Lock. Just found that F450 did not have it, plug goes into a dummy connector to keep it from dangling.

Well, from what I've just read the Trick Flow pan is not for a 4wd truck. 2wd only. But Dorman supposedly has a steel one for $35 - which is so much less than the $250 or so the others cost that I'm suspicious. Granted it is stamped steel vs cast aluminum, but I sure don't want it to leak.

But now I'm torn. I have a price from Steve for $2200 but I'm pretty sure it is with the existing pan, so I'll have to add $250 or so for an aluminum pan - to ensure it doesn't leak. On the other hand, I have a range of from $1800 to $2600 from Charles, and he said he'll just put a pan on that has a drain plug - apparently from his stash. (And, by the way, apparently the 4R100 pans interchange, so maybe they had drain plugs.) So the prices are pretty much the same.

Steve gives a 1 year warranty and Charles gives a 2 year warranty. But, I would think that 1 year would be enough as if it is going to fail from bad parts it should do so in the first year. And if it holds up a year it should be good to go.

One, Steve, teaches transmission rebuilding and does this on the side and the other, Charles, does this every day as his business.

Thoughts?