85lebaront2 Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 I'm guessing his spam filter put the email notifications in the spam folder. I noticed in his introduction he said he is a truck driver, in which case he might be on the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 I noticed in his introduction he said he is a truck driver, in which case he might be on the road. Yes, that may well be it. Anyway, I sent him an email to let him know he has responses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyleroth48625 Posted April 14, 2019 Author Share Posted April 14, 2019 I'm guessing his spam filter put the email notifications in the spam folder. Sorry yes I did read just didn't get time to work on it till now. I disassembled the distributor found that the plate that secures the rotor and the teeth to the the tone wheel was cracked at the weld so I put a different distributor in that was in good shape from another 300 I put new pickup and ignition module on it made it a quarter mile down the road and Bam runs like crapp it cannot run over 2500 and of it reaches that it's done just misfiring spitting and drying to dye I've checked all vaccum lines had many issue with t those in the past can the carb really cause the engine to just misfire. The car is the junk computer controlled one that I bought reman from nappa two years ago but wouldn't be surprised of it's junk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 15, 2019 Share Posted April 15, 2019 Sorry yes I did read just didn't get time to work on it till now. I disassembled the distributor found that the plate that secures the rotor and the teeth to the the tone wheel was cracked at the weld so I put a different distributor in that was in good shape from another 300 I put new pickup and ignition module on it made it a quarter mile down the road and Bam runs like crapp it cannot run over 2500 and of it reaches that it's done just misfiring spitting and drying to dye I've checked all vaccum lines had many issue with t those in the past can the carb really cause the engine to just misfire. The car is the junk computer controlled one that I bought reman from nappa two years ago but wouldn't be surprised of it's junk Yes, a carb certainly can do that. I suspect that you do have carb issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyleroth48625 Posted May 2, 2019 Author Share Posted May 2, 2019 Yes, a carb certainly can do that. I suspect that you do have carb issues. Ok so I finally made time to work with n the poor girl more mostly out of neccesity my car lost the motor. I lucked into a carborator exact fit for the truck at my work brand new carb stickers and all never had gad in it that I can smell. A parts house threw it in the scrap pile as part of a clean out. Put it on the ole girl she runs pretty relably now still has a stutter to it but rpm and load make no difference now just kind of has a drum roll while driving I found why my timing was jumping so bad at base time the plate the rotor sits in had the weld busted on it allowing it to move a little back and forth so I rebuilt a used distributor with new electronics. Hold base time we'll now but does not seem to pick up any power when the spout is plugged in. I threw a new coil on again as well as a quick attempt to get the miss out. O drive the ol girl 80 miles a day now. Would be nice if I could get it over ten miles to the gallon . Any ideas on how to boost mpg it used to get 20 when I first got it. And how much can the feedback carb really change fuel flow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted May 3, 2019 Share Posted May 3, 2019 Would be nice if I could get it over ten miles to the gallon . Any ideas on how to boost mpg it used to get 20 when I first got it. And how much can the feedback carb really change fuel flow https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1325963-gas-mileage-recipe-4-9l-300-a.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 4, 2019 Share Posted May 4, 2019 Ok so I finally made time to work with n the poor girl more mostly out of neccesity my car lost the motor. I lucked into a carborator exact fit for the truck at my work brand new carb stickers and all never had gad in it that I can smell. A parts house threw it in the scrap pile as part of a clean out. Put it on the ole girl she runs pretty relably now still has a stutter to it but rpm and load make no difference now just kind of has a drum roll while driving I found why my timing was jumping so bad at base time the plate the rotor sits in had the weld busted on it allowing it to move a little back and forth so I rebuilt a used distributor with new electronics. Hold base time we'll now but does not seem to pick up any power when the spout is plugged in. I threw a new coil on again as well as a quick attempt to get the miss out. O drive the ol girl 80 miles a day now. Would be nice if I could get it over ten miles to the gallon . Any ideas on how to boost mpg it used to get 20 when I first got it. And how much can the feedback carb really change fuel flow Kyle - I'm not 100% sure what all you said, but let me ask some questions. First, you said "does not seem to pick up any power when the spout is plugged in". But unless I misunderstand, your truck doesn't have a SPOUT connector. I've included the schematic, below, and it does have an STI connector. But my limited understanding of the STI is that it only causes the computer to flash the codes. However, connecting to it isn't going to change the "power". My guess is that you have enough things not connected or not working such that you have no advance on the ignition. That happens when the computer sees a problem, like no input from one or more things that are supposed to be connected. For instance, if you don't have the feedback carb on the computer will know it immediately and probably not advance the timing. There is no half-way on the EEC systems. They are either all there and working correctly, or if any input is missing they aren't happy and the timing doesn't advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyleroth48625 Posted July 24, 2019 Author Share Posted July 24, 2019 Kyle - I'm not 100% sure what all you said, but let me ask some questions. First, you said "does not seem to pick up any power when the spout is plugged in". But unless I misunderstand, your truck doesn't have a SPOUT connector. I've included the schematic, below, and it does have an STI connector. But my limited understanding of the STI is that it only causes the computer to flash the codes. However, connecting to it isn't going to change the "power". My guess is that you have enough things not connected or not working such that you have no advance on the ignition. That happens when the computer sees a problem, like no input from one or more things that are supposed to be connected. For instance, if you don't have the feedback carb on the computer will know it immediately and probably not advance the timing. There is no half-way on the EEC systems. They are either all there and working correctly, or if any input is missing they aren't happy and the timing doesn't advance. Ok so I finally dug into the old girl again kinda set it aside when it started running even worse to where I couldn't even drive it. I made sure all factory conectors were hooked up didn't make a difference trued swapping carbs around again couldn't get it over 1500 even and barely running at that I unhooked the computer and I can actually drive it now little stutter under heavy Accel but goes away if I let up on the throttle thinking fuel pump may be getting weak. Traced wiring looking for issues found one brown wire hooked into the oil harness broken fnd it weird the hat the coil has five grounds and six power wires not sure how it all works there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 24, 2019 Share Posted July 24, 2019 Ok so I finally dug into the old girl again kinda set it aside when it started running even worse to where I couldn't even drive it. I made sure all factory conectors were hooked up didn't make a difference trued swapping carbs around again couldn't get it over 1500 even and barely running at that I unhooked the computer and I can actually drive it now little stutter under heavy Accel but goes away if I let up on the throttle thinking fuel pump may be getting weak. Traced wiring looking for issues found one brown wire hooked into the oil harness broken fnd it weird the hat the coil has five grounds and six power wires not sure how it all works there Are you saying that with the computer disconnected it runs much better? If so, then the major problem isn't a fuel pump. It is surely something electrical if you electrically disconnect the computer and most of the issues go away. So, how did you disconnect the computer? And, what's the other color on the broken brown wire? There will be another color that may be dots, hash marks, or a stripe. But without that I don't know what the wire is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 24, 2019 Share Posted July 24, 2019 Are you saying that with the computer disconnected it runs much better? If so, then the major problem isn't a fuel pump. It is surely something electrical if you electrically disconnect the computer and most of the issues go away. So, how did you disconnect the computer? And, what's the other color on the broken brown wire? There will be another color that may be dots, hash marks, or a stripe. But without that I don't know what the wire is. A lot of this "will run up to X-RPM then loses power and wants to stall" sounds like a collapsed or clogged Catalytic converter. "Runs better with the computer disconnected, or spout unplugged" points to a failed ECM. Push Start TFT will run with locked timing with the computer not controlling the advance, but will die if it's in the loop. Because spark is erratic or non existent. If the PIP is going bad, even that won't work. Got me on the "coil has five grounds and six power wires" thing though. Just my two cents from what I can understand..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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