Rembrant Posted June 15, 2020 Author Share Posted June 15, 2020 Those are just the cuff (or garter) type connections. You can get a double ended metal scissor type tool, or a color coded complete set of plastic release tools. The double ended one should be 5/16 & 3/8" Here is what the fuel line fittings look like. Two for the supply and return to the 460 EFI, and the small one with the rubber hose for the generator. Is the special tool required for all of them or just the generator line? I think I'm going to try and drop the tank myself if I can figure out what to do with the fuel. Going to reply again after this with a question about the tank. If I'm going to need tools for these fuel lines I'll have to get them this week. Note that the fuel line for the generator is smaller than the lines for the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted June 15, 2020 Author Share Posted June 15, 2020 Those are just the cuff (or garter) type connections. You can get a double ended metal scissor type tool, or a color coded complete set of plastic release tools. The double ended one should be 5/16 & 3/8" Here is what the fuel line fittings look like. Two for the supply and return to the 460 EFI, and the small one with the rubber hose for the generator. Is the special tool required for all of them or just the generator line? I think I'm going to try and drop the tank myself if I can figure out what to do with the fuel. Going to reply again after this with a question about the tank. If I'm going to need tools for these fuel lines I'll have to get them this week. Note that the fuel line for the generator is smaller than the lines for the engine. Next is the tank. Don't laugh at the rusty frame...lol, it's really not that bad. Just surface rust. The driver's side of the tank is bolted to the bottom of the frame rail, see below: The passenger side is bolted to a beam that attaches to the crossmembers in front of and behind the tank. It almost looks like the tank is meant to hinge down once disconnected on the driver's side. Does anybody know? That sure would make life a lot easier. Unbolt just one bolt at each end of the bracket on the passenger side, and it should act like a hinge, no? Am I crazy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 Next is the tank. Don't laugh at the rusty frame...lol, it's really not that bad. Just surface rust. The driver's side of the tank is bolted to the bottom of the frame rail, see below: The passenger side is bolted to a beam that attaches to the crossmembers in front of and behind the tank. It almost looks like the tank is meant to hinge down once disconnected on the driver's side. Does anybody know? That sure would make life a lot easier. Unbolt just one bolt at each end of the bracket on the passenger side, and it should act like a hinge, no? Am I crazy? Sender doesn't look that new. Screws are really rusty... Maybe you could spray the frame down with Ospho to passivate the rust? I was at Horrid Fate today. (We don't have Princess Auto or Canadian Tire down here) Took some pics of the line removal tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted June 15, 2020 Author Share Posted June 15, 2020 Sender doesn't look that new. Screws are really rusty... Maybe you could spray the frame down with Ospho to passivate the rust? I was at Horrid Fate today. (We don't have Princess Auto or Canadian Tire down here) Took some pics of the line removal tools. Ok Jim, thanks. Pretty sure Princess Auto has all this stuff as well, and they're close to my work. I need to make sure I have all the right stuff in advance, because once I'm at the shop and drop the tank, I won't be able to run out and get a needed tool... Ospho is a good idea, and I still have at least 3/4 of a gallon left from doing my F150 frame with it. That'll be a good little project to slather it on the RV frame (after I get everything else operational lol). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted June 15, 2020 Author Share Posted June 15, 2020 Took some pics of the line removal tools. Do the two different style connectors disconnect in the same way? I had these tools years ago. I bought a 1995 F150 in 1997 or 1998 and I remember buying these tools to change the fuel filter in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 Took some pics of the line removal tools. Do the two different style connectors disconnect in the same way? I had these tools years ago. I bought a 1995 F150 in 1997 or 1998 and I remember buying these tools to change the fuel filter in it. The two tools work In the same way. The die-cast scissors style are a little more forgiving, but you still have to do your part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 The two tools work In the same way. The die-cast scissors style are a little more forgiving, but you still have to do your part. I guess I’ve been out of the rust belt for a long time! If that’s surface rust, my truck doesn’t have any rust! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted June 16, 2020 Author Share Posted June 16, 2020 I guess I’ve been out of the rust belt for a long time! If that’s surface rust, my truck doesn’t have any rust! Haha! Well, it's my salty east coast version of surface rust...lol. This RV is a western vehicle, so I actually consider this good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted June 17, 2020 Author Share Posted June 17, 2020 Took some pics of the line removal tools. Do the two different style connectors disconnect in the same way? I had these tools years ago. I bought a 1995 F150 in 1997 or 1998 and I remember buying these tools to change the fuel filter in it. OK 460 people... I finally got around to changing out my coolant temperature sender last night. The back story is that when I bought this thing, the temperature gauge barely moved off the bottom...and if/when it did, it didn't move very far. The seller actually gave me a new 185F t-stat with the RV and said that he thought the t-stat that was in it was a colder one that the original owner had installed for towing. This was just an assumption, so that's all I know. While I drove the thing home that day (120 miles) in the winter, he seemed to blow pretty good heat from the vents, so I just assumed that the temp sender was likely getting flakey after 27 years. So I bought an aftermarket sender...the better one of the two available, and installed it last night. I let the thing sit and idle in the driveway for a while and it still barely moved up the gauge. I decided to take it out for a run on the highway, but I have a 10-12 mile drive (at 40-45 mph) from home before I get to the highway, and during that whole time, the temperature only came up to between the N and the O. Once on the highway, the gauge moved a bit more, maybe up into the O a little bit, but that was it on flat ground. It was only when I climbed a couple big hills back to back that the gauge shot up to the middle, and even just a hair beyond the middle, but once I back on to flat ground for a while, the gauge dropped back down to between the N and O as pictured. When I got back home I grabbed my temp gun while it was idling in the driveway, and all I could really reach was the top tank on the radiator, and it was reading 175F. My brother inlaw says it's acting like there's no thermostat in it at all (or the one that IS in it is stuck open). What say the 460 experts? Sounds like I need a thermostat? I was very pleased with myself for having swapped the temp sender without draining the coolant, but it sounds like I now have to drain it anyway...lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 OK 460 people... I finally got around to changing out my coolant temperature sender last night. The back story is that when I bought this thing, the temperature gauge barely moved off the bottom...and if/when it did, it didn't move very far. The seller actually gave me a new 185F t-stat with the RV and said that he thought the t-stat that was in it was a colder one that the original owner had installed for towing. This was just an assumption, so that's all I know. While I drove the thing home that day (120 miles) in the winter, he seemed to blow pretty good heat from the vents, so I just assumed that the temp sender was likely getting flakey after 27 years. So I bought an aftermarket sender...the better one of the two available, and installed it last night. I let the thing sit and idle in the driveway for a while and it still barely moved up the gauge. I decided to take it out for a run on the highway, but I have a 10-12 mile drive (at 40-45 mph) from home before I get to the highway, and during that whole time, the temperature only came up to between the N and the O. Once on the highway, the gauge moved a bit more, maybe up into the O a little bit, but that was it on flat ground. It was only when I climbed a couple big hills back to back that the gauge shot up to the middle, and even just a hair beyond the middle, but once I back on to flat ground for a while, the gauge dropped back down to between the N and O as pictured. When I got back home I grabbed my temp gun while it was idling in the driveway, and all I could really reach was the top tank on the radiator, and it was reading 175F. My brother inlaw says it's acting like there's no thermostat in it at all (or the one that IS in it is stuck open). What say the 460 experts? Sounds like I need a thermostat? I was very pleased with myself for having swapped the temp sender without draining the coolant, but it sounds like I now have to drain it anyway...lol. The way to tell if there is no thermostat (or it's stuck open) is to check the top radiator hose from cold, or look down into the radiator while cold. The heater core is part of a bypass loop from the water pump. It should be fully warmed up before the thermostat begins to open. IF the coolant is flowing across the top of the core when cold, and/or the upper hose gets progressively warmer, you have no thermostat. The thermostat is a modulator, not an on/off switch, but it should not be opening at all until it reaches a threshold level. Gary has posted the resistor values to test the gauges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts