ArdWrknTrk Posted April 10, 2020 Share Posted April 10, 2020 The rearmost exhaust bolt is why I said to slot the front and back ears of the manifold. So shear stress doesn't break the bolt or crack the manifold. I found this Dorman kit while looking for other parts. I guess this is designed to fix the exact broken bolt issue that is present in my engine? That's interesting. It says "OE Fix, Rear Right; To 1/31/93". That's really interesting Cory. With an '89, and '96 Ford p/n too! I guess this is what Ford has to do when they realize a huge issue, like Triitons seizing/blowing plugs or 6.0's lifting heads... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted April 10, 2020 Author Share Posted April 10, 2020 That's probably the date the F3 heads were introduced. Odd that it doesn't work with them. Or, maybe the manifolds changed then? Looks like the manifolds changed Gary, according to Dorman/RockAuto. Looks like Ford made them much beefier/rigid starting Feb 1st 1993. Replacement manifold to January 31st 1993: Replacement manifold Feb 1st 1993 and later: With a build date of 11/92, and with the right rear bolt already broken off on mine, I think I'll buy and install the kit for the heck of it. For $30 bucks if it buys some time before it leaks/warps/cracks/blows the gasket out, etc it will be worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted April 10, 2020 Author Share Posted April 10, 2020 Down here in southern Minnesota (although still north of the frozen tundra of Green Bay), we don't have the mistake-you-for-a-Canadian accent (we have an accent, just not that one). Up on "da range" (the Minnesota Iron Range in northern MN) it's closer, both geographically and in sound. But when I moved to the Detroit area for a couple years everyone thought I ought to sound like a Canadian. I ended up spending a few days in the U.P. (Upper Peninsula of Michigan) with a friends family. After that I could imitate a yooper accent well enough to make people happy that I was finally talking Minnesotan! That's funny! Although I am in Canada, geographically I am on a line of lattitude that would be a little south of Minneapolis. I may have told you this story before, but I did a couple work trips to a plant in Mankato about 15 years ago, and one of the trips was in the middle of the winter, and oh man was it freakin' cold! I'll never forget the girl at reception asking me if I brought the cold with me from Canada, and I said no way hunny, it doesn't get this cold where I live in Canada...lol. We get the sloppy wet New England weather over here on the coast. I also got a speeding ticket in Mankato, and I tried to talk my way out of it by telling the cop that I was from Canada and wasn't used to the MPH, etc, and he laughed and said "Nice try buddy"...lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 10, 2020 Share Posted April 10, 2020 That's probably the date the F3 heads were introduced. Odd that it doesn't work with them. Or, maybe the manifolds changed then? Looks like the manifolds changed Gary, according to Dorman/RockAuto. Looks like Ford made them much beefier/rigid starting Feb 1st 1993. Replacement manifold to January 31st 1993: Replacement manifold Feb 1st 1993 and later: With a build date of 11/92, and with the right rear bolt already broken off on mine, I think I'll buy and install the kit for the heck of it. For $30 bucks if it buys some time before it leaks/warps/cracks/blows the gasket out, etc it will be worth it. Pretty impressive how much the ports opened up on the F3 heads! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted April 10, 2020 Share Posted April 10, 2020 Pretty impressive how much the ports opened up on the F3 heads! Actually the ports didn't open up that much, the 1993-97 460s had air injection into the exhaust ports so the manifold opening had to be larger. Here are some pictures of the manifolds: Right side F3 on top, E8 on bottom Port opening on F3 manifold Port opening on E8 manifold F3 gasket against E8 head On the F3 manifolds, even though the opening is larger, it is only to allow the air injection ports to work without restricting the exhaust flow. If I remember correctly, the port air feed was primarily during warm up, after that the flow is redirected to the catalytic converter, in between the reducing catalyst and oxidizing catalyst. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 10, 2020 Share Posted April 10, 2020 Pretty impressive how much the ports opened up on the F3 heads! Interesting! Yes, the F3's are supposedly the best heads, for a number of reasons. But I didn't know the manifolds changed as well. I'm sure the thickness is greater, which is probably why the Dorman part won't fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 10, 2020 Share Posted April 10, 2020 Actually the ports didn't open up that much, the 1993-97 460s had air injection into the exhaust ports so the manifold opening had to be larger. Here are some pictures of the manifolds: Right side F3 on top, E8 on bottom Port opening on F3 manifold Port opening on E8 manifold F3 gasket against E8 head On the F3 manifolds, even though the opening is larger, it is only to allow the air injection ports to work without restricting the exhaust flow. If I remember correctly, the port air feed was primarily during warm up, after that the flow is redirected to the catalytic converter, in between the reducing catalyst and oxidizing catalyst. That's some great documentation Bill! Interesting to see the multiple holes in the port floor. Thanks for the education. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted April 11, 2020 Author Share Posted April 11, 2020 That's some great documentation Bill! Interesting to see the multiple holes in the port floor. Thanks for the education. What oil should I buy for this 460, and what quantity? And would it be safe to assume that a 1993 RV 460 would have had a 195F thermostat in it? The temperature gauge is not working...the needle moves slightly off the bottom, but that is it. I checked it with an IR gun, and it was only reading about 170F at the thermostat housing, and 170F in the top radiator tank. The guy I bought it from said he thought that he thought the previous owner put a colder thermostat in it for towing (Maybe a 160F?), but he wasn't sure. Maybe it has a 180F stat in it now, who knows. I have no idea what range the temp sender is, but for the price of them I think I'll replace it and the thermostat anyway. Scott at Parkland recommended a 180F high flow thermostat. I didn't ask him why, but I assume it is to keep it from running too hot? What are you guys running in your 460's? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 11, 2020 Share Posted April 11, 2020 What oil should I buy for this 460, and what quantity? And would it be safe to assume that a 1993 RV 460 would have had a 195F thermostat in it? The temperature gauge is not working...the needle moves slightly off the bottom, but that is it. I checked it with an IR gun, and it was only reading about 170F at the thermostat housing, and 170F in the top radiator tank. The guy I bought it from said he thought that he thought the previous owner put a colder thermostat in it for towing (Maybe a 160F?), but he wasn't sure. Maybe it has a 180F stat in it now, who knows. I have no idea what range the temp sender is, but for the price of them I think I'll replace it and the thermostat anyway. Scott at Parkland recommended a 180F high flow thermostat. I didn't ask him why, but I assume it is to keep it from running too hot? What are you guys running in your 460's? I get 6 quarts with a Motorcraft or Wix(NAPA) filter. Assuming you're not going to be driving it in bitter cold, almost any 10W-30 or 40 will do. I like to run diesel oils because of their high detergent package. There's no Cat on my truck to poison. I have a 195* 'stat. If Scott recommends a 180 I'm sure he has good reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted April 11, 2020 Share Posted April 11, 2020 What oil should I buy for this 460, and what quantity? And would it be safe to assume that a 1993 RV 460 would have had a 195F thermostat in it? The temperature gauge is not working...the needle moves slightly off the bottom, but that is it. I checked it with an IR gun, and it was only reading about 170F at the thermostat housing, and 170F in the top radiator tank. The guy I bought it from said he thought that he thought the previous owner put a colder thermostat in it for towing (Maybe a 160F?), but he wasn't sure. Maybe it has a 180F stat in it now, who knows. I have no idea what range the temp sender is, but for the price of them I think I'll replace it and the thermostat anyway. Scott at Parkland recommended a 180F high flow thermostat. I didn't ask him why, but I assume it is to keep it from running too hot? What are you guys running in your 460's? I would run what Ford recommends which is 192° or 195° I believe. Edit: As Jim said on the oil, I run 10w30. I use Valvoline “conventional”, I guess it’s called now, or NAPA oil. And a Motorcraft, Wix, NAPA or Purolator filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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