salans7 Posted February 27, 2019 Author Share Posted February 27, 2019 See someone else crazy enough to change the firewall Its what you do to turn a non-AC firewall into a AC firewall. Mine is also a cab off frame rebuild but no where near like Gary is doing, I could not drive the truck is I put that much work into it and looked that nice. Dave ---- That brings up an interesting point that I haven't considered prior, A/C cabs vs. non-A/C cabs. My 86 was an A/C cab, however I don't intend to run A/C because I have no interest in rebuilding the HVAC system, or trying to make it work. None of my dad's numerous dentside-aeronose trucks ever had working A/C and we got along just fine without it. Heck, even in my Ranger I rarely use it unless I feel like the heat is just unbearable. I'll have to cross that bridge once I'm there because finding a non-A/C cab is unlikely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted February 27, 2019 Share Posted February 27, 2019 See someone else crazy enough to change the firewall Its what you do to turn a non-AC firewall into a AC firewall. Mine is also a cab off frame rebuild but no where near like Gary is doing, I could not drive the truck is I put that much work into it and looked that nice. Dave ---- That brings up an interesting point that I haven't considered prior, A/C cabs vs. non-A/C cabs. My 86 was an A/C cab, however I don't intend to run A/C because I have no interest in rebuilding the HVAC system, or trying to make it work. None of my dad's numerous dentside-aeronose trucks ever had working A/C and we got along just fine without it. Heck, even in my Ranger I rarely use it unless I feel like the heat is just unbearable. I'll have to cross that bridge once I'm there because finding a non-A/C cab is unlikely. FWIW, the last cab with AC vs non AC was the 1986, 1987 up if non-AC still had the same firewall, the vent mode used the AC ducting and the evaporator core was left out and a smaller housing fitted in place of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted February 27, 2019 Share Posted February 27, 2019 FWIW, the last cab with AC vs non AC was the 1986, 1987 up if non-AC still had the same firewall, the vent mode used the AC ducting and the evaporator core was left out and a smaller housing fitted in place of it. I was going to say that and you beat me to it. I did not know this when I got into the 80 - 86 trucks. I was not so lucky as both my trucks were 81 models, project is a flare side the parts truck a style side long bed with duel tanks. The parts truck is where the rear "duel" tank system came from that I put into the flare side. Fuel doors are different between the 2 models but my brother sent me a flare side filler door section from a flare side to graft onto my fender to look factory stock. The AC system, AC & tank dash controls and all wiring also came from the parts truck, again to look factory stock. When you have a full truck for parts, swapping parts to build the truck the way you want is easy. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted March 8, 2019 Author Share Posted March 8, 2019 FWIW, the last cab with AC vs non AC was the 1986, 1987 up if non-AC still had the same firewall, the vent mode used the AC ducting and the evaporator core was left out and a smaller housing fitted in place of it. I was going to say that and you beat me to it. I did not know this when I got into the 80 - 86 trucks. I was not so lucky as both my trucks were 81 models, project is a flare side the parts truck a style side long bed with duel tanks. The parts truck is where the rear "duel" tank system came from that I put into the flare side. Fuel doors are different between the 2 models but my brother sent me a flare side filler door section from a flare side to graft onto my fender to look factory stock. The AC system, AC & tank dash controls and all wiring also came from the parts truck, again to look factory stock. When you have a full truck for parts, swapping parts to build the truck the way you want is easy. Dave ---- So I've spent the last week or so getting all of the crud, grease, and overspray off of the frame. I'm not even going to let myself come close to what Gary has done, so the chassis is pretty much ready for new paint. Don't nag me too hard on the jack stands and blocks. It's the only way I can get the frame high enough to paint underneath and not get covered in overspray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 So I've spent the last week or so getting all of the crud, grease, and overspray off of the frame. I'm not even going to let myself come close to what Gary has done, so the chassis is pretty much ready for new paint. Don't nag me too hard on the jack stands and blocks. It's the only way I can get the frame high enough to paint underneath and not get covered in overspray. You aren't in any danger using the concrete blocks that way, or with that little weight on it. It is just when people try to put the whole vehicle up on concrete blocks that danger signs pop up. And I understand getting the frame up where you can work on it, so you use whatever is available - safely. It looks like you are using red-oxide primer. What are you going to paint the frame with as a top coat? On the rear axle, you can probably figure out if the L/S will fit a full-floater by working through the parts lists. They are on the page on Driveline/Axles & Differentials. Start on the Applications tab, get the parts list #'s, and then go to the Parts Lists tab to see what you can find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 You aren't in any danger using the concrete blocks that way, or with that little weight on it. It is just when people try to put the whole vehicle up on concrete blocks that danger signs pop up. And I understand getting the frame up where you can work on it, so you use whatever is available - safely. It looks like you are using red-oxide primer. What are you going to paint the frame with as a top coat? On the rear axle, you can probably figure out if the L/S will fit a full-floater by working through the parts lists. They are on the page on Driveline/Axles & Differentials. Start on the Applications tab, get the parts list #'s, and then go to the Parts Lists tab to see what you can find. I used plastic horses. I de-greased and hand wire brushed the frame then sprayed it with a acid to kill any rust. After a day or 2 for the acid to work I hosed off the frame, used shop air to blow it dry and 1 more day to dry in the sun before I painted it. I used TSC black oil base paint with hardener in a old school spray gun. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted March 9, 2019 Author Share Posted March 9, 2019 It looks like you are using red-oxide primer. What are you going to paint the frame with as a top coat? Probably just your run of the mill black automotive chassis paint. There's no need for a heavy duty paint like POR 15 or any other heavy duty chassis paint since most of this frame's original paint is still intact and rust isn't a huge concern of mine. The red oxide primer was only used in the areas that were most corroded, and a couple of other trouble areas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PetesPonies Posted March 10, 2019 Share Posted March 10, 2019 It looks like you are using red-oxide primer. What are you going to paint the frame with as a top coat? Probably just your run of the mill black automotive chassis paint. There's no need for a heavy duty paint like POR 15 or any other heavy duty chassis paint since most of this frame's original paint is still intact and rust isn't a huge concern of mine. The red oxide primer was only used in the areas that were most corroded, and a couple of other trouble areas. Red oxide lacquer is such an old technology. It's porous, protects about nothing. A lot better choices out there today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted March 10, 2019 Author Share Posted March 10, 2019 Red oxide lacquer is such an old technology. It's porous, protects about nothing. A lot better choices out there today. Old truck, old technology. Just the way I like it. In other news, a major update. This morning I was browsing Facebook's Marketplace, and happened upon an ad that read "Dana Axles: Ford, Chevy, SRW, DRW". Intrigued, I clicked the ad and quickly learned that the seller was driving down from Vermont with a flatbed truck full of Dana 60 axles, and would be taking I95 south to Daytona. Since I'm only two hours away from Daytona, I decided to message him. We worked out a deal for an SRW D60 from an aeronose Ford, and now I can check one more thing off of my list. Yes, I know ball joints aren't as strong as kingpins and that a kingpin axle is preferred. It's not my forte to intentionally sink my trucks into situations that I can't escape in 4x2, so a ball joint axle will work fine for my purposes. The axle is a little crusty, but that's to be expected from anything up north. Almost everything is there, it's got plenty of meat left on the passenger lower u-bolt plate, and it came with the driver's side u-bolt plate as well. Panhard bar mount is also intact. It's complete hub to hub, and the only things that are really missing are the calipers, dust shields, and the upper shock mounts. All in all I paid $700 for it, which is waaaaayyyyy less than what I have been finding elsewhere for far worse and/or incomplete axles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted April 7, 2019 Author Share Posted April 7, 2019 Old truck, old technology. Just the way I like it. In other news, a major update. This morning I was browsing Facebook's Marketplace, and happened upon an ad that read "Dana Axles: Ford, Chevy, SRW, DRW". Intrigued, I clicked the ad and quickly learned that the seller was driving down from Vermont with a flatbed truck full of Dana 60 axles, and would be taking I95 south to Daytona. Since I'm only two hours away from Daytona, I decided to message him. We worked out a deal for an SRW D60 from an aeronose Ford, and now I can check one more thing off of my list. Yes, I know ball joints aren't as strong as kingpins and that a kingpin axle is preferred. It's not my forte to intentionally sink my trucks into situations that I can't escape in 4x2, so a ball joint axle will work fine for my purposes. The axle is a little crusty, but that's to be expected from anything up north. Almost everything is there, it's got plenty of meat left on the passenger lower u-bolt plate, and it came with the driver's side u-bolt plate as well. Panhard bar mount is also intact. It's complete hub to hub, and the only things that are really missing are the calipers, dust shields, and the upper shock mounts. All in all I paid $700 for it, which is waaaaayyyyy less than what I have been finding elsewhere for far worse and/or incomplete axles. Just a small update. Hi Gary and Dad's Truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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