salans7 Posted January 1 Author Share Posted January 1 Well I didn't get as much done as I wanted to this weekend thanks to lack of motivation, but I finally kicked myself enough to get out there and fix the inner support for the driver's rear cab mount. I cut out the small area that had rusted through and welded in a patch. The other section was only slightly pitted, so I ground it out and then filled it with weld rather than doing another patch. I do need some tips though. The overlay patch I will be doing won't be welded to the support (unless I decide to plug weld it). Should I just coat the inner support with weld-thru primer and then weld in the overlay patch, or is there some other type of coating I should spray the inner support with? I'm not sure what the factory coated this support with, but it definitely isn't bare metal. Managed to finish up the cab mount patches today. The passenger side wasn't too bad, so I just ground out a small channel where the pitting was and then filled it with weld. The POR15 will coat it and fill any remaining voids. I also knocked out the hole on the passenger side. There were two smaller holes underneath that could be seen inside the cab. I welded those up on both sides, treated the surface rust, and then laid a patch in. I threw two plug welds in since the sheet metal is spot welded along this area. I still have one more cancerous area to knock out at the bottom, but once that's done I can move on to the POR15 and then work on the lower fender mounts (bricknose to bullnose mod) and then replace the body bushings. I don't think there's anything else I need to do with the cab flipped back, so I will likely drop the cab back down once the remaining tasks are completed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 1 Share Posted January 1 Managed to finish up the cab mount patches today. The passenger side wasn't too bad, so I just ground out a small channel where the pitting was and then filled it with weld. The POR15 will coat it and fill any remaining voids. I also knocked out the hole on the passenger side. There were two smaller holes underneath that could be seen inside the cab. I welded those up on both sides, treated the surface rust, and then laid a patch in. I threw two plug welds in since the sheet metal is spot welded along this area. I still have one more cancerous area to knock out at the bottom, but once that's done I can move on to the POR15 and then work on the lower fender mounts (bricknose to bullnose mod) and then replace the body bushings. I don't think there's anything else I need to do with the cab flipped back, so I will likely drop the cab back down once the remaining tasks are completed. Excellent progress, Shaun. You seem to know how to don’t, very well. Want to tackle my SiL’s floorboards? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted January 2 Author Share Posted January 2 Excellent progress, Shaun. You seem to know how to don’t, very well. Want to tackle my SiL’s floorboards? Thanks Gary! I was able to see how these sections rusted out, which helped me make sure I took the steps to keep it from happening again. I can't say I would tackle this on a truck other than my own since I'm definitely not an expert. I'm just fortunate enough to have grown up in and around auto body shops so I have some idea of what to do to fix issues such as this in a way that will last. It's definitely not show quality, but it sure will outlast me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted April 9 Author Share Posted April 9 Thanks Gary! I was able to see how these sections rusted out, which helped me make sure I took the steps to keep it from happening again. I can't say I would tackle this on a truck other than my own since I'm definitely not an expert. I'm just fortunate enough to have grown up in and around auto body shops so I have some idea of what to do to fix issues such as this in a way that will last. It's definitely not show quality, but it sure will outlast me. Well after a few month hiatus, I finally welded in the last patch to the back firewall. I still need to seam seal and protect (paint) the entire floor, but once that's done I can move on to the lower fender mounts. I plan on dropping the cab back down after that as I'm tired of seeing the truck in 100 pieces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 10 Share Posted April 10 Well after a few month hiatus, I finally welded in the last patch to the back firewall. I still need to seam seal and protect (paint) the entire floor, but once that's done I can move on to the lower fender mounts. I plan on dropping the cab back down after that as I'm tired of seeing the truck in 100 pieces. Progress!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 10 Share Posted April 10 Well after a few month hiatus, I finally welded in the last patch to the back firewall. I still need to seam seal and protect (paint) the entire floor, but once that's done I can move on to the lower fender mounts. I plan on dropping the cab back down after that as I'm tired of seeing the truck in 100 pieces. Awesome to see you're ready to move on. Your welding has improved a bit Shaun! A flap disc would hide 1,000 sins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted April 10 Author Share Posted April 10 Awesome to see you're ready to move on. Your welding has improved a bit Shaun! A flap disc would hide 1,000 sins. Thanks Jim! If I really took my time, I could lay some pretty good beads. Alot of these welds are at uncomfortable angles and the part of me that knows this is just a farm truck isn't worried if they look strange. I just want them to have good penetration and not have any gaps. I would love to flap disc this but it's in a channel so I can't get a regular flap disc in there. I need one of these: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 10 Share Posted April 10 Awesome to see you're ready to move on. Your welding has improved a bit Shaun! A flap disc would hide 1,000 sins. Thanks Jim! If I really took my time, I could lay some pretty good beads. Alot of these welds are at uncomfortable angles and the part of me that knows this is just a farm truck isn't worried if they look strange. I just want them to have good penetration and not have any gaps. I would love to flap disc this but it's in a channel so I can't get a regular flap disc in there. I need one of these: They make them that wrap over the edge of the disc, so you have a tangent sanding surface. (evidently, curved or corner flap disc is the term) It might not reach all the way into a 90° corner, but it will leave like a 3/16 fillet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted April 14 Author Share Posted April 14 They make them that wrap over the edge of the disc, so you have a tangent sanding surface. (evidently, curved or corner flap disc is the term) It might not reach all the way into a 90° corner, but it will leave like a 3/16 fillet. Today I found one more spot of rust that I needed to patch with the cab flipped back. I missed it because the area was thin due to pitting. I went to prep the back of the cab for paint, and the three small holes said peek-a-boo when I ran the flap disc over them. Set me a back a little, but I'm glad I found it prior to painting the bottom. Once that was finished up, I spent the rest of the day priming and painting all of the areas I repaired to protect them from further corrosion. I'm gonna leave the rest of the cab floor for a later date since it will be easier to get to than the back part of the cab that ends up hidden by the rear cab mount crossmember. I'm going to try and get the cab back down onto the body mounts tomorrow, and then I'll likely start working on the rust in the kick panel areas. I've got a spot in the cowl I'd like to tackle as well but have to plan that out as I may need to get creative to tackle that one. Once that stuff is done, then I can work on the rockers. Once those are complete, I do see some bubbling paint on the interior cab roof, so I'll address that as well and probably end up finding more corrosion once I dig out the seam sealer in the rain gutters or whatever they're called. Little by little I'm getting there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 14 Share Posted April 14 Today I found one more spot of rust that I needed to patch with the cab flipped back. I missed it because the area was thin due to pitting. I went to prep the back of the cab for paint, and the three small holes said peek-a-boo when I ran the flap disc over them. Set me a back a little, but I'm glad I found it prior to painting the bottom. Once that was finished up, I spent the rest of the day priming and painting all of the areas I repaired to protect them from further corrosion. I'm gonna leave the rest of the cab floor for a later date since it will be easier to get to than the back part of the cab that ends up hidden by the rear cab mount crossmember. I'm going to try and get the cab back down onto the body mounts tomorrow, and then I'll likely start working on the rust in the kick panel areas. I've got a spot in the cowl I'd like to tackle as well but have to plan that out as I may need to get creative to tackle that one. Once that stuff is done, then I can work on the rockers. Once those are complete, I do see some bubbling paint on the interior cab roof, so I'll address that as well and probably end up finding more corrosion once I dig out the seam sealer in the rain gutters or whatever they're called. Little by little I'm getting there. Progress is Gooooood! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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