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Rear Brake Drums


baddog8it

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That's his English cousin that uses Whitworth wrenches. I think the guy that worked on Big Blue was Jacques Legg, and he's used to working on French vehicles.

By jove, sir I have a set of Whitworth, or maybe English Standard combination wrenches, I'll have to look at the designation for sizing. Remember when using same, to "take spanner twixt thumb and forefinger" in order to properly use them.

Reading a British workshop manual is quite interesting.

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By jove, sir I have a set of Whitworth, or maybe English Standard combination wrenches, I'll have to look at the designation for sizing. Remember when using same, to "take spanner twixt thumb and forefinger" in order to properly use them.

Reading a British workshop manual is quite interesting.

They're polite I assume.

They offer up parts for install, don't just slap them on! :nabble_smiley_happy:

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They're polite I assume.

They offer up parts for install, don't just slap them on! :nabble_smiley_happy:

One must be cautious to obtain the correct silencer so as to prevent exhaust titter. The preceding from one of the first V8 Rolls-Royce workshop manuals. Another gem was from my sister's 1959 MGA workshop manual, commenting that later cars were equipt with (I forget the number designation) Lucas distributor which is fitted with a pre-tilted breaker plate. I guess this was to properly supply the high tension wires to the sparking plugs.

You haven't really appreciated England's refusal to be rushed into things until you have done the rear brake rods on a 1952 Bentley, yes, they still had mechanical rear drum brakes in 1952, the fronts were hydraulic, 1940 Ford wheel cylinders. Rears were a mechanical power assist system by a friction clutch on the gearbox driven by the output shaft.

Considering our 1953 Chrysler Custom Imperial had power steering and power hydraulic brakes, a semi-automatic transmission and a 331 Hemi, the Bentley was an anachronism. F head in-line 6, manual 4 speed transmission, manual steering and power assisted mechanical rear wheel brakes, manual hydraulic front brakes.

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One must be cautious to obtain the correct silencer so as to prevent exhaust titter. The preceding from one of the first V8 Rolls-Royce workshop manuals. Another gem was from my sister's 1959 MGA workshop manual, commenting that later cars were equipt with (I forget the number designation) Lucas distributor which is fitted with a pre-tilted breaker plate. I guess this was to properly supply the high tension wires to the sparking plugs.

You haven't really appreciated England's refusal to be rushed into things until you have done the rear brake rods on a 1952 Bentley, yes, they still had mechanical rear drum brakes in 1952, the fronts were hydraulic, 1940 Ford wheel cylinders. Rears were a mechanical power assist system by a friction clutch on the gearbox driven by the output shaft.

Considering our 1953 Chrysler Custom Imperial had power steering and power hydraulic brakes, a semi-automatic transmission and a 331 Hemi, the Bentley was an anachronism. F head in-line 6, manual 4 speed transmission, manual steering and power assisted mechanical rear wheel brakes, manual hydraulic front brakes.

Wow!

Someone once told me, Lucas, "the inventors of darkness"!

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Wow!

Someone once told me, Lucas, "the inventors of darkness"!

Grumpin - I think the term is "Prince Of Darkness". That's 'cause the electrics tended to go out at the worst possible time.

Bill - Don't get me started. Especially since we have Brits, and Brit ex-pats, as members. But, having lived there, .....

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Grumpin - I think the term is "Prince Of Darkness". That's 'cause the electrics tended to go out at the worst possible time.

Bill - Don't get me started. Especially since we have Brits, and Brit ex-pats, as members. But, having lived there, .....

Mystery partially solved. I've confirmed that I have the Dana 70 rear end. I gathered that by the tag info as well as the axle tube diameter. The diameter for the 70 is published as 3-1/2" (mine measured 3-9/16 - lots of rust?). The diameter for a D60 is 3-1/8". The diameter for a 70HD is 4".

I'm seriously debating putting disc brakes on the rear end. Seems pretty easy and not expensive. Upside is that they brake better, are more reliable and if only replacing pads - can be maintained without pulling the axle. The kits are readily available, or you can piece it together yourself and just buy the mounting bracket. Downside is that if I want a mechanical parking brake, it adds $150+ to the cost (the calipers come from mid 70s era Cadillac Eldorado.

There is still one mystery on my mind. The differential casting should have a model number on it, which I would assume to be "70", but it appears to be "NC". Any thoughts?

I also realized that there appears to be another metal tag at the very top of the differential. I'll have to wait until the next time I drop the spare tire to check that one out.

Per the Dana manual, it is saying that the rear end on my truck only got put on chassis models. I really need to get my hands on the build sheet.

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Mystery partially solved. I've confirmed that I have the Dana 70 rear end. I gathered that by the tag info as well as the axle tube diameter. The diameter for the 70 is published as 3-1/2" (mine measured 3-9/16 - lots of rust?). The diameter for a D60 is 3-1/8". The diameter for a 70HD is 4".

I'm seriously debating putting disc brakes on the rear end. Seems pretty easy and not expensive. Upside is that they brake better, are more reliable and if only replacing pads - can be maintained without pulling the axle. The kits are readily available, or you can piece it together yourself and just buy the mounting bracket. Downside is that if I want a mechanical parking brake, it adds $150+ to the cost (the calipers come from mid 70s era Cadillac Eldorado.

There is still one mystery on my mind. The differential casting should have a model number on it, which I would assume to be "70", but it appears to be "NC". Any thoughts?

I also realized that there appears to be another metal tag at the very top of the differential. I'll have to wait until the next time I drop the spare tire to check that one out.

Per the Dana manual, it is saying that the rear end on my truck only got put on chassis models. I really need to get my hands on the build sheet.

A C&C truck will have straight rear frame rails, 2 1/2" wide springs and a frame width of 34". (gets narrower behind the cab)

Has the bed on your truck been redrilled about 2" narrower per side?

I have a hard time imagining someone going to the trouble of moving/swapping/welding spring perches and shock mounts to get a 70 beneath a pickup, when the 60 will carry more than the frame, or any of the rest of the truck, is rated for.

Then there's the pinion yoke and driveshaft.

I may be wrong... It wouldn't be the first time.

This sounds like a Q for Diesel Brad

 

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Mystery partially solved. I've confirmed that I have the Dana 70 rear end. I gathered that by the tag info as well as the axle tube diameter. The diameter for the 70 is published as 3-1/2" (mine measured 3-9/16 - lots of rust?). The diameter for a D60 is 3-1/8". The diameter for a 70HD is 4".

I'm seriously debating putting disc brakes on the rear end. Seems pretty easy and not expensive. Upside is that they brake better, are more reliable and if only replacing pads - can be maintained without pulling the axle. The kits are readily available, or you can piece it together yourself and just buy the mounting bracket. Downside is that if I want a mechanical parking brake, it adds $150+ to the cost (the calipers come from mid 70s era Cadillac Eldorado.

There is still one mystery on my mind. The differential casting should have a model number on it, which I would assume to be "70", but it appears to be "NC". Any thoughts?

I also realized that there appears to be another metal tag at the very top of the differential. I'll have to wait until the next time I drop the spare tire to check that one out.

Per the Dana manual, it is saying that the rear end on my truck only got put on chassis models. I really need to get my hands on the build sheet.

You can find the chassis dimensions in the 1985 Body Builder's book: Literature/1985 Literature/Body Builder's. Perhaps with that you can figure out what you have.

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