baddog8it Posted February 16, 2019 Author Share Posted February 16, 2019 The fact that it is a 3.54 ratio indicates to me that it is a Dana axle. The Ford/Sterling 10.25 would be 3.55, not 3.54 based on the math of ring to pinion teeth. The drum, therefore, will be mounted behind the hub (instead of slipping on over the wheel studs). They are a pain to remove, since you must first pull the inner axle then the giant nut that retains the wheel bearing. You might want to buy the large socket for this before you start the job. A lot of shade tree mechanics use the chisel method, but it is not a best practice... at all. It is, I believe, only available in 3/4” drive so you may need the adapter down to 1/2” drive depending on your tool set. I wish I remembered the socket size off the top of my head but I don’t. I will see if I can find mine and report back. Be sure you have wheel bearing grease on hand, as well as rtv silicone to seal the axle flange against the hub. The drums are probably a bit pricey to replace “just to be safe”. I fully understand not wanting the down time but I would wait and look at them before assuming they need replaced. They might be okay, or just need turning. If you do buy them in advance, consider getting them locally and ask if they can be returned if not needed. Buy the drum brake hardware kit and apply the lube. When I researched the different pad types, I decided on semi metallic. The ceramic were higher performance for single hard stops or race applications, but semi metallic had better heat build up and brake fade characteristics. They are also not as hard, and give you better life out of the rotors and drums. They do produce a lot of dust, however. The cheap economy line organic pads have a spongier feel, don’t stop as effectively, suffer much more from heat build up / brake fade and have the shortest life. Avoid those. All good advice. I'll do some research on the nut size. Will also be checking local auto parts return policies. Snow is on the ground and can't fit the beast in the garage - might be awhile before I really dig into it. Thanks all for the help .Will post after I've made some progress . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 I have a 2-3/8” socket, 3/4” drive reduced to 1/2” drive that worked on my 1968 F250 (Dana 60 rear) and also fit my slick body with a Dana 60 rear out of a 1973 F250. I am guessing it would be the same for a 1985 Dana 60. I don’t know if this will fit my sterling 10.25 but I’m hoping it will... Sterling has a spanner type socket needed, if it (a) weren't dark and (b) weren't cold and raining, I would get it and take a picture. The sterling uses ratcheting nuts on the hub bearings, but unless you have leaking seals or want to just check the bearings there is no need for it, drums "slide" off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 Sterling has a spanner type socket needed, if it (a) weren't dark and (b) weren't cold and raining, I would get it and take a picture. The sterling uses ratcheting nuts on the hub bearings, but unless you have leaking seals or want to just check the bearings there is no need for it, drums "slide" off. Good to know! My 10.25 came out a ‘96 and is in really nice shape... it’s “sterling” 😜. So I can probably leave it alone for now... I would get in line to slap the engineer that came up with the idea of inside mounted drums 😖 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 Good to know! My 10.25 came out a ‘96 and is in really nice shape... it’s “sterling” 😜. So I can probably leave it alone for now... I would get in line to slap the engineer that came up with the idea of inside mounted drums 😖 That will also have the updated seals and bearings (mid 1994 change). Good score! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 That will also have the updated seals and bearings (mid 1994 change). Good score! "Long pinion" 10.25 I hear 1/2" more spline length does a lot to keep the yoke from wobbling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 "Long pinion" 10.25 I hear 1/2" more spline length does a lot to keep the yoke from wobbling. Which is why Vernon put the "long pinion kit" on Big Blue. Or rather, had it put on. (Boy, that raises the hackles on the back of my neck. What if the same guy did that as put the valve covers on w/o gaskets? Or the guy that wired around the safeties and the resistance wire to the fuel pump? Or.....????) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 Which is why Vernon put the "long pinion kit" on Big Blue. Or rather, had it put on. (Boy, that raises the hackles on the back of my neck. What if the same guy did that as put the valve covers on w/o gaskets? Or the guy that wired around the safeties and the resistance wire to the fuel pump? Or.....????) Which guy, Larry, Moe or Curly? Or was it one of the others, Schayde Tri or Hamm Phist? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 Which is why Vernon put the "long pinion kit" on Big Blue. Or rather, had it put on. (Boy, that raises the hackles on the back of my neck. What if the same guy did that as put the valve covers on w/o gaskets? Or the guy that wired around the safeties and the resistance wire to the fuel pump? Or.....????) Did they know/remember to apply sealant to the splines before installing the yoke? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 Did they know/remember to apply sealant to the splines before installing the yoke? I think all 5 of those guys were involved, sometimes at the same time. Man, what a messed-up effort. I can really understand why Vernon finally abandoned it. As for the pinion splines, apparently. They are one of the few things that don't leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 I think all 5 of those guys were involved, sometimes at the same time. Man, what a messed-up effort. I can really understand why Vernon finally abandoned it. As for the pinion splines, apparently. They are one of the few things that don't leak. I missed one, Jack Legg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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