Gary Lewis Posted October 5, 2017 Author Share Posted October 5, 2017 An auto reset breaker (like you use with a winch or plow) will come right back online as soon as it cools off. Which is it's purpose in the first place. Current limiting diode banks are going to screw you when there *needs* to be a surge, or tug. Perhaps the thing to do is to try it, probably starting with a 20 amp auto reset breaker. Maybe the length of small wire on the tow vehicle and the trailer’s pigtail will provide enough resistance that a reasonably-charged battery won’t pull enough current to trip the breaker. But, I doubt it’ll ever be able to charge a “dead” battery. Hmmm, a large light, like a headlight, wired across the breaker would charge a dead battery, albeit slowly, while the breaker is tripped. And each time the breaker was tripped the battery would come up a bit more, allowing the breaker to stay in longer. So, eventually even a dead battery might come up enough that the breaker would stay in. 😎 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Perhaps the thing to do is to try it, probably starting with a 20 amp auto reset breaker. Maybe the length of small wire on the tow vehicle and the trailer’s pigtail will provide enough resistance that a reasonably-charged battery won’t pull enough current to trip the breaker. But, I doubt it’ll ever be able to charge a “dead” battery. Hmmm, a large light, like a headlight, wired across the breaker would charge a dead battery, albeit slowly, while the breaker is tripped. And each time the breaker was tripped the battery would come up a bit more, allowing the breaker to stay in longer. So, eventually even a dead battery might come up enough that the breaker would stay in. 😎 I did something like that on my old slide-in camper. I had 2 charging circuits in parallel. The backup circuit had a power resistor that would trickle-charge the camper battery without drawing enough current to blow the 30A fuse. The main circuit had an automatic breaker. So if it took less than what the breaker could handle the main circuit would charge the battery with essentially no power or voltage loss. If it took more than that the breaker would trip and the backup system would trickle charge it. Later the breaker would reset and if the battery was charged up enough it would go back to charging through the breaker, otherwise it would trip again. I never had a high-draw item like a winch on that camper. But I set that up after parking it too long with the electric fridge running. When I started the truck (which closed an isolator relay) I blew the fuse. I didn't realize that until a while later, so the fridge was getting a little warm! I never had that trouble afterward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Perhaps the thing to do is to try it, probably starting with a 20 amp auto reset breaker. Maybe the length of small wire on the tow vehicle and the trailer’s pigtail will provide enough resistance that a reasonably-charged battery won’t pull enough current to trip the breaker. But, I doubt it’ll ever be able to charge a “dead” battery. Hmmm, a large light, like a headlight, wired across the breaker would charge a dead battery, albeit slowly, while the breaker is tripped. And each time the breaker was tripped the battery would come up a bit more, allowing the breaker to stay in longer. So, eventually even a dead battery might come up enough that the breaker would stay in. 😎 Idiot light charging systems have a resistor in parallel with the battery light so if the bulb burns out the alternator still gets excited current. It would have to be a big resistor, but I think you have one on the firewall of the 'Bee. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 5, 2017 Author Share Posted October 5, 2017 Idiot light charging systems have a resistor in parallel with the battery light so if the bulb burns out the alternator still gets excited current. It would have to be a big resistor, but I think you have one on the firewall of the 'Bee. Jim - If the ballast resistor is 1 ohm and there’s a 4-volt difference (14-10=4) then I=E/R and the current flow will be 4 amps. But wattage is I*I*R = 16 watts. Is that ballast resistor good for that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Jim - If the ballast resistor is 1 ohm and there’s a 4-volt difference (14-10=4) then I=E/R and the current flow will be 4 amps. But wattage is I*I*R = 16 watts. Is that ballast resistor good for that? It was more of a joke,(scavenging the Bee for a Ford pickup) but you would need a big wire wound resistor to pass charging current. What are the ohms of the taps on a blower resistor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 5, 2017 Author Share Posted October 5, 2017 It was more of a joke,(scavenging the Bee for a Ford pickup) but you would need a big wire wound resistor to pass charging current. What are the ohms of the taps on a blower resistor? I missed the joke. I can check the EVTM for the resistor values, but doubt they'll work as they get quite hot even when they are in the moving airstream caused by the blower. And when winching the trailer will be stationary. Maybe a current-limiting diode across the relay? Anyway, on to the more immediate problem - picking a color for the trailer. Basically the guy said it should be bright so it can be spotted if stolen - which happens all too often. 😡 I don't know what I want to do re color, but picked up a color chart at a Home Depot and will look it over. And, as you have surely guessed, the trailer is on order, with about 4 weeks the guesstimated time before deliver. But, there is still one aspect I'm not thrilled about - the electrical connections. The butt connectors they use do have a shrink aspect to them, but from what I saw aren't water tight by any means. So I've asked if I can come over and make the connections myself when the time comes. On the other hand, there are many things I'm happy about. One is the fact that my deck will extend around the fenders and be 102" wide. All of the other decks I looked at were 82" wide. But, if your vehicle is wider than 82 and you need to drive over the fenders, where do the tires sit? On mine they sit on the deck. 😉 Another is the D-rings he uses. They are 15K # units as opposed to 6K on a leading brand. And they are not only recessed and welded to the deck, they are welded to the crossmember. I'll post some pics when I get home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 I missed the joke. I can check the EVTM for the resistor values, but doubt they'll work as they get quite hot even when they are in the moving airstream caused by the blower. And when winching the trailer will be stationary. Maybe a current-limiting diode across the relay? Anyway, on to the more immediate problem - picking a color for the trailer. Basically the guy said it should be bright so it can be spotted if stolen - which happens all too often. 😡 I don't know what I want to do re color, but picked up a color chart at a Home Depot and will look it over. And, as you have surely guessed, the trailer is on order, with about 4 weeks the guesstimated time before deliver. But, there is still one aspect I'm not thrilled about - the electrical connections. The butt connectors they use do have a shrink aspect to them, but from what I saw aren't water tight by any means. So I've asked if I can come over and make the connections myself when the time comes. On the other hand, there are many things I'm happy about. One is the fact that my deck will extend around the fenders and be 102" wide. All of the other decks I looked at were 82" wide. But, if your vehicle is wider than 82 and you need to drive over the fenders, where do the tires sit? On mine they sit on the deck. 😉 Another is the D-rings he uses. They are 15K # units as opposed to 6K on a leading brand. And they are not only recessed and welded to the deck, they are welded to the crossmember. I'll post some pics when I get home. It's gotta be blue to go with your tow rigs.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 5, 2017 Author Share Posted October 5, 2017 It's gotta be blue to go with your tow rigs.... Which blue? Big Blue has two shades, and Blue has another one. Here is a pic of one of the D-rings: And here's a shot of the tongue of a car hauler somewhat like mine. On the left is the TrailerJailer tongue lock. Then just to the right is the 5-position hitch height adjustment. And to the right of that you can see the rings to hold the safety chains - I'm having them move the rings back so the chains don't just hang down. Next to the right is the jack - welded to both the hitch and the tongue so it isn't going to move. And, that jack has an interesting spring arrangement that pops the drop-leg up/down when you turn the handle, thereby limiting the amount of jacking required. But, from there this trailer is much different than mine as I don't have either the tool box or the gravel shield. Instead, I'll have a treadplate on the bottom of the tongue on which to mount the battery box, and a winch stand 12" up from the deck. And, speaking of the winch stand, my trailer will have a header bar like this trailer, the top of which is 12" off the deck. The winch stand will attach to that so the winch will sit just above it. Last, here's my lame attempt to show what the deck will look like on my trailer. The fenders will actually be set into the deck, so the deck fore and aft of the fenders will be the full legal 102" wide. In other words, if you drive a big-tired vehicle onto the trailer and over the fenders there'll be somewhere for the tires to sit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Which blue? Big Blue has two shades, and Blue has another one. I'd stay away from metallics, if anything for ease of touchup. how about one (or both!) Of the Ford engine blues? You'd certainly never be far away from the right color for repair. How about French Blue? ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 5, 2017 Author Share Posted October 5, 2017 Which blue? Big Blue has two shades, and Blue has another one. I'd stay away from metallics, if anything for ease of touchup. how about one (or both!) Of the Ford engine blues? You'd certainly never be far away from the right color for repair. How about French Blue? ;) Oddly enough, the guy showed me a picture of a trailer they painted in what he called Ford Blue. He initially said it was Ford's engine blue, but when I asked which one he said it is really "Miller Blue" from Sherwin Williams. I assumed he meant Miller welders, but the blue appeared closer to New Ford Blue to me. But, what I don't want to do is to pick a color that will clash with either of my tow trucks. Here's Big Blue: And, here's one of Blue: And, Dad's engine is painted Ford Dark Blue, which is the color on the left: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts