Nothing Special Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 Well, if that was Plan S, for Starlite, we are now to Plan T, for Turn & Burn. đł Yesterday I got a call from a guy Iâd previously been trying to reach because he has an aluminum trailer that I thought I wanted. But he wasnât returning calls, and a week went by and I realized the aluminum trailer was pretty, but not what I wanted as it just didnât have the GVWR I think I need. As it turns out he was out of the country and without cell coverage, but did call yesterday. I explained that the trailer wasnât what I wanted, and he asked what my plans are and I told him. He said he recently had a Starlite but it just didnât work the way he wanted, so had one built by Turn & Burn and loves it. So I called them and now my plans have changed. The trailer is essentially the same as shown above, but with a few changes: The tongue is 1â longer, which gives extra clearance for the tailgate to open without hitting the jack, allows for tighter turns, and should cause it to trail better. The wiring is done using shrink tubing over the butt connectors, and the lights plug into the harness. The D-rings will be welded to the crossmember as well as the deck rather than just to the deck. And, there will be an extra one in the center of the dovetail for that one more chain for safety, and for attaching a snatchblock if you have to winch something off the trailer. The width between fenders will be increased to 83â from the standard 82â. That is significant as Big Blueâs tires are 81â at the contact patch, and one more inch should allow it to drive on w/o problems. Weâll go see some of his trailers in the morning and put money down on mine if we like what we see. đ One other option to consider is a toolbox. Not so much for tools (although that might be helpful to), but more to carry/store tie-down straps. It's nice to keep them where you're going to need them. Having said that, storage on a trailer isn't ideal. Trailers tend to live outside and get tons of road spray. So if the box isn't completely waterproof stuff will get wet and stay that way. One way I've seen that dealt with is to use expanded metal for the bottom of the box. That lets everything get in, but also lets it dry out. So I'm not saying you should get a toolbox. Just that it's something to consider. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 One other option to consider is a toolbox. Not so much for tools (although that might be helpful to), but more to carry/store tie-down straps. It's nice to keep them where you're going to need them. Having said that, storage on a trailer isn't ideal. Trailers tend to live outside and get tons of road spray. So if the box isn't completely waterproof stuff will get wet and stay that way. One way I've seen that dealt with is to use expanded metal for the bottom of the box. That lets everything get in, but also lets it dry out. So I'm not saying you should get a toolbox. Just that it's something to consider. A 20mm ammo can is 14x18 x8 and under $20. They make great panniers for KLR's. Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 5, 2017 Author Share Posted October 5, 2017 A 20mm ammo can is 14x18 x8 and under $20. They make great panniers for KLR's. Lol I had originally asked each manufacturer to quote the trailer with a tool box. My intention was to put the battery for the winch in there. But, as I thought about it more I decided that having the battery in with tools and chain wasn't a good idea, especially since I'm going to wire the battery into the hot wire coming from the truck so that it'll charge while going down the road, or while using the winch if you run the truck. Plus, I'll be charging the battery with a trickle charger over the winter. So that might not be good on tools or chain. I finally decided that the better thing to do is to have them put a plate on the bottom of the tongue on which I can mount a battery box. And I'll keep the tools and chain in the toolbox in Big Blue's bed. Or, if I'm towing a long distance where I'll want to use my new truck, Blue, then I'll move the tools and chain over. And then I decided I want to go with a Turn & Burn trailer - and I haven't even seen one, although I will in the morning. However, I've seen one on their Facebook page, and there isn't a place to put a tool box, assuming mine will be like the one below. Note the winch plate that's down at deck level. I've asked that mine be raised up to the bump-rail level, as indicated by the green arrow. And, in case I need to have the winch line run just off the deck, I've asked that a D-ring be installed in the deck 16" back of the leading edge. That way I can put my snatchblock on it and run the winch line through it and along the deck for a low-slung vehicle. Also pointed out in this pic is the adjustable hitch, as shown in the orange oval. This one has 5 positions where most of the others I looked at have 3 positions. Last is the TrailerJailer hitch lock, which is shown at the end of the yellow arrow. One is being included with the trailer, and you can watch the video here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 I had originally asked each manufacturer to quote the trailer with a tool box. My intention was to put the battery for the winch in there. But, as I thought about it more I decided that having the battery in with tools and chain wasn't a good idea, especially since I'm going to wire the battery into the hot wire coming from the truck so that it'll charge while going down the road, or while using the winch if you run the truck. Plus, I'll be charging the battery with a trickle charger over the winter. So that might not be good on tools or chain. I finally decided that the better thing to do is to have them put a plate on the bottom of the tongue on which I can mount a battery box. And I'll keep the tools and chain in the toolbox in Big Blue's bed. Or, if I'm towing a long distance where I'll want to use my new truck, Blue, then I'll move the tools and chain over. And then I decided I want to go with a Turn & Burn trailer - and I haven't even seen one, although I will in the morning. However, I've seen one on their Facebook page, and there isn't a place to put a tool box, assuming mine will be like the one below. Note the winch plate that's down at deck level. I've asked that mine be raised up to the bump-rail level, as indicated by the green arrow. And, in case I need to have the winch line run just off the deck, I've asked that a D-ring be installed in the deck 16" back of the leading edge. That way I can put my snatchblock on it and run the winch line through it and along the deck for a low-slung vehicle. Also pointed out in this pic is the adjustable hitch, as shown in the orange oval. This one has 5 positions where most of the others I looked at have 3 positions. Last is the TrailerJailer hitch lock, which is shown at the end of the yellow arrow. One is being included with the trailer, and you can watch the video here. Try this again, On the battery charge/winch system, the winch will draw probably 50-60 amps possibly more. The charging circuit will either trip the breakers or blow the fuse. I told a friend to use a cutoff relay so when the winch is activated, the charging circuit is shut off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 5, 2017 Author Share Posted October 5, 2017 Try this again, On the battery charge/winch system, the winch will draw probably 50-60 amps possibly more. The charging circuit will either trip the breakers or blow the fuse. I told a friend to use a cutoff relay so when the winch is activated, the charging circuit is shut off. Good point, Bill. I'd wondered about leaving the truck's engine off, which would probably keep the voltage differential low enough that the current transfer wouldn't be a problem. But, then when you start the truck there'll be an even greater voltage differential and, therefore, a larger potential current draw. So, what's the solution? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Good point, Bill. I'd wondered about leaving the truck's engine off, which would probably keep the voltage differential low enough that the current transfer wouldn't be a problem. But, then when you start the truck there'll be an even greater voltage differential and, therefore, a larger potential current draw. So, what's the solution? It will still try to draw from the truck battery or batteries. Cutoff relay allows only the battery on the trailer to be used, but will resume charging if the truck is running as soon as the winch is off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 5, 2017 Author Share Posted October 5, 2017 It will still try to draw from the truck battery or batteries. Cutoff relay allows only the battery on the trailer to be used, but will resume charging if the truck is running as soon as the winch is off. I agree it will try to draw from the truck battery/batteries, but with the resistance of what may be a 12 ga wire the current may be mainly drawn from the trailer battery instead of the truck. I think I'll have to find out. Maybe I should wire it in temporarily and see what happens. I wonder if going with a fusible link instead of a fuse would reduce the current flow given its smaller size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 I agree it will try to draw from the truck battery/batteries, but with the resistance of what may be a 12 ga wire the current may be mainly drawn from the trailer battery instead of the truck. I think I'll have to find out. Maybe I should wire it in temporarily and see what happens. I wonder if going with a fusible link instead of a fuse would reduce the current flow given its smaller size. A fusible link is simply 'the weakest link'. Fusible links are sized two wire sizes under the circuit wire (I.e. 12Ga. circuit =16Ga. link) You don't want to do this if running a load like a winch. Auto reset circuit breaker is the way to go. imho CB's idea is a good one. I could see that whole triangle from the front of the deck up to the hitch with expanded metal welded to the bottom of the rails. Handy for chocks, chains, tarps etc.. A weatherproof box for straps and such is a necessity up here in the salty, icy, North East. .... ever try to use a strap that has been rolled up, wet, and frozen? It takes a LONG time to thaw out by the floor blower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 5, 2017 Author Share Posted October 5, 2017 A fusible link is simply 'the weakest link'. Fusible links are sized two wire sizes under the circuit wire (I.e. 12Ga. circuit =16Ga. link) You don't want to do this if running a load like a winch. Auto reset circuit breaker is the way to go. imho CB's idea is a good one. I could see that whole triangle from the front of the deck up to the hitch with expanded metal welded to the bottom of the rails. Handy for chocks, chains, tarps etc.. A weatherproof box for straps and such is a necessity up here in the salty, icy, North East. .... ever try to use a strap that has been rolled up, wet, and frozen? It takes a LONG time to thaw out by the floor blower. I was thinking that a roll of fusible link, being two sizes smaller, might give enough resistance to reduce the current while winching so the breaker or fuse in the truck doesnât trip. And, its heat-resistant insulation shouldnât melt. The problem I see with a fuse or breaker is that it will just trip and wonât charge the battery. So, once the voltage differential between the trailerâs battery and the vehicleâs battery reaches a certain point you will never be able to charge the trailer battery. What is really needed, in addition to circuit protection, is a current limiter. Something that will limit the current to maybe 20A max, but allow unhindered charging up to that value. And thatâs a tall order since both batteries would eventually be at the same voltage, meaning no voltage drop is desireable. đ© Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 I was thinking that a roll of fusible link, being two sizes smaller, might give enough resistance to reduce the current while winching so the breaker or fuse in the truck doesnât trip. And, its heat-resistant insulation shouldnât melt. The problem I see with a fuse or breaker is that it will just trip and wonât charge the battery. So, once the voltage differential between the trailerâs battery and the vehicleâs battery reaches a certain point you will never be able to charge the trailer battery. What is really needed, in addition to circuit protection, is a current limiter. Something that will limit the current to maybe 20A max, but allow unhindered charging up to that value. And thatâs a tall order since both batteries would eventually be at the same voltage, meaning no voltage drop is desireable. đ© An auto reset breaker (like you use with a winch or plow) will come right back online as soon as it cools off. Which is it's purpose in the first place. Current limiting diode banks are going to screw you when there *needs* to be a surge, or tug. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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