3G Alternator Conversion Page Upgrade.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks. A pic would be helpful, but the source would help as well since we could point people at those vehicles.

Steve - Please check out the Wiring It tab. (Nothing else should have changed.) I used one of your pics, thank you very much and pared down the fuse pictures. Plus moved things around to try and make it flow better.

Comments, please.

[Steve83]

Steve - Please check out the Wiring It tab. (Nothing else should have changed.) I used one of your pics, thank you very much and pared down the fuse pictures. Plus moved things around to try and make it flow better.

Comments, please.

Again: most of these are just style comments.

...a fuse is absolutely necessary.

I would say "...some form of circuit protection is absolutely necessary."

...you may well have a lack of a solid ground.

That's awkward & wordy. You might reduce it to "...you may lack a solid ground."

...the samefrom the case of the alternator to the engine block .

Typo (missing space), and I'm not sure what you're saying is the same.

But more importantly: adding a ground wire to a painted/powdered case won't help because it will still be insulated. And painting/powdering the mount & ground bosses is OK. They just have to be CLEANED down to shiny metal before they can actually ground the case reliably (either by the mounts or by an added wire).

...in the picture below, which isrotate (re-clock) your alternator...

Typo (missing space)

I haven't looked at the other tabs because you said earlier you wanted to focus on this one.

[Gary Lewis]

Again: most of these are just style comments.

...a fuse is absolutely necessary.

I would say "...some form of circuit protection is absolutely necessary."

...you may well have a lack of a solid ground.

That's awkward & wordy. You might reduce it to "...you may lack a solid ground."

...the samefrom the case of the alternator to the engine block .

Typo (missing space), and I'm not sure what you're saying is the same.

But more importantly: adding a ground wire to a painted/powdered case won't help because it will still be insulated. And painting/powdering the mount & ground bosses is OK. They just have to be CLEANED down to shiny metal before they can actually ground the case reliably (either by the mounts or by an added wire).

...in the picture below, which isrotate (re-clock) your alternator...

Typo (missing space)

I haven't looked at the other tabs because you said earlier you wanted to focus on this one.

Good points, Steve. I'll work on that tab soon. And then we can turn to the other tabs.

[Gary Lewis]

Good points, Steve. I'll work on that tab soon. And then we can turn to the other tabs.

I've now updated that tab with your comments, Steve - I hope. And, I've now replaced the original page with this new one. Please take a look, but we can still upgrade.

[Steve83]

I've now updated that tab with your comments, Steve - I hope. And, I've now replaced the original page with this new one. Please take a look, but we can still upgrade.

It looks good, but you're still missing spaces in "samefrom" and "isrotate" near the bottom. Are you keeping them like that for some reason?

[Gary Lewis]

It looks good, but you're still missing spaces in "samefrom" and "isrotate" near the bottom. Are you keeping them like that for some reason?

Steve - I'm apparently not seeing what you are seeing. I've even searched for "samefrom" and "isrotate" and can't find them. Can you take a screen shot and show me what I'm missing? Please?

[Steve83]

Steve - I'm apparently not seeing what you are seeing. I've even searched for "samefrom" and "isrotate" and can't find them. Can you take a screen shot and show me what I'm missing? Please?

https://supermotors.net/getfile/1146541/thumbnail/gary3g.jpg

Here's what I get when I copy that text from the Wiring It tab:Grounds:

In the picture of the alternator above note that the ground connection, which is tapped 8-1.25mm, was not powder coated. Nor were the threads in the ear at the top. Given that, none of the surfaces that will be part of the mechanical attachment of the alternator, and therefore the ground path, should be painted or coated - or they should be cleaned down to shiny metal if they are. But, another option is to add a ground wire, the samefrom the case of the alternator to the engine block .

​Clocking:

The back of the alternator can be attached to the front of the alternator in three different positions, and those positions are called the "clocking" of the alternator. The industry standard for referencing clocking appears to be with the pivot at 6:00 and the clamp arm at 12:00, as shown in the picture above. So in the picture above the alternator has 7:00 clocking, but it could have 4:00 or 11:00 clocking since the positions go in 4-hour increments [12 hours/3 positions]. (Other alternators may have different clocking - I don't know.)

As you can see in the picture below, which isrotate (re-clock) your alternator, and Steve83's instructions for doing so are here.

[Gary Lewis]

https://supermotors.net/getfile/1146541/thumbnail/gary3g.jpg

Here's what I get when I copy that text from the Wiring It tab:Grounds:

In the picture of the alternator above note that the ground connection, which is tapped 8-1.25mm, was not powder coated. Nor were the threads in the ear at the top. Given that, none of the surfaces that will be part of the mechanical attachment of the alternator, and therefore the ground path, should be painted or coated - or they should be cleaned down to shiny metal if they are. But, another option is to add a ground wire, the samefrom the case of the alternator to the engine block .

​Clocking:

The back of the alternator can be attached to the front of the alternator in three different positions, and those positions are called the "clocking" of the alternator. The industry standard for referencing clocking appears to be with the pivot at 6:00 and the clamp arm at 12:00, as shown in the picture above. So in the picture above the alternator has 7:00 clocking, but it could have 4:00 or 11:00 clocking since the positions go in 4-hour increments [12 hours/3 positions]. (Other alternators may have different clocking - I don't know.)

As you can see in the picture below, which isrotate (re-clock) your alternator, and Steve83's instructions for doing so are here.

Steve - We are seeing different things. I think somehow you are looking at an old page. I've compared what is in the editor to what I get when I pull that page (Electrical/3G Alternator Conversion) up, and both show this:

Can someone else check to see what they get? Steve, can you empty the cache on your computer?

 

[Steve83]

I think somehow you are looking at an old page.

I wouldn't doubt it - my computers & phone do that to me. I haven't figured out why, but it happened with the previous computer, and this new one, and on at least 2 phones. I have to think it's something screwy in my Chrome settings since it affects anything I'm logged into, but can't find it. Clearing the cache has never worked; holding down CTRL or SHIFT +F5 does nothing different from F5 alone. It takes about a week of NOT going to a page for it to load the latest version.

The odd thing in this case is: I hadn't visited that page since I posted the first set of comments about it, so IDK how it got the new layout with SOME of the old text.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Steve - We are seeing different things. I think somehow you are looking at an old page. I've compared what is in the editor to what I get when I pull that page (Electrical/3G Alternator Conversion) up, and both show this:

Can someone else check to see what they get? Steve, can you empty the cache on your computer?

Ok, I'm bringing this thread ttt so if there needs be more conversation on the parts numbers or eccentricitys of 3G's we can stop cluttering BuggTruck's request for advice.