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3G Alternator Conversion Page Upgrade.


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I do see a listing on eBay showing a Leece Neville fitting '88-'92 7.3's

But that is nothing like a 3G.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Alternator-NEW-Ford-F250-F350-7-3L-Diesel-1988-92-w-7706J-7706JA/282856215823?hash=item41db8b550f:g:jI4AAOSwZR9ajRqQ&redirect=mobile

I think the best way to identify the 'correct' 3G is by its Lester number.

That way you can apply it to any manufacturer.

Yes, I agree that the Lester # may be the way to go. I can cross-ref from the part # to the Lester number on DB's site.

And, speaking of cross-ref, our Interchange page shows two alternators for the '92 E-Series w/a 7.3L"

92-92 8CYL, MOTORCRAFT, 100AMP, 7.3L DIESEL F0PZ10346CX

88-97 8CYL 7.3L LEECE-NEVILLE,165 AMP F4UZ10346AX

The Motorcraft is probably a 2G.

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Yes, I agree that the Lester # may be the way to go. I can cross-ref from the part # to the Lester number on DB's site.

And, speaking of cross-ref, our Interchange page shows two alternators for the '92 E-Series w/a 7.3L"

92-92 8CYL, MOTORCRAFT, 100AMP, 7.3L DIESEL F0PZ10346CX

88-97 8CYL 7.3L LEECE-NEVILLE,165 AMP F4UZ10346AX

The Motorcraft is probably a 2G.

https://www.obbstartersandalternators.com/ford-alternator-7756-f2uu-10300-f2uz-10346-f2uz-10346-f2uu-7756-p-3521.html

Ford #'s and Lester #7756-3

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Good find! But I don't see the Ford part number. Am I missing it?

However, I did see that you can pay $29.99 for a 1 year protection plan - on an item with a lifetime warranty. :nabble_anim_confused:

Somewhere I have a sound effects LP where a guy walks up to the customer service desk with something that has a lifetime warranty. He says "It failed" and you hear a pistol cock and fire. :nabble_smiley_evil:

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Well, I've been poking around using the part #'s that BB shows on that link (7756-3N-2G, F2UU-10300-DC, F2UZ-10346-B, F2UZ-10346-BRM, F2UU-DC, 7756-3) and I get from no results to conflicting results.

On the Interchange page I cannot find those #'s. Here's what it shows for 1992 E-Series:

92-92 8CYL.MOTORCRAFT.95 AMP F2HZ10346BX

92-92 8CYL, MOTORCRAFT, 100AMP, 7.3L DIESEL F0PZ10346CX

92-92 ALLCYLS..MOTORCRAFT, 130AMP-EXC. F1DZ10346BX

SCHOOLBUSPKG

92-92 8CYL,MOTORCRAFT, 130 AMP SCHOOLBUSPKG F3UZ10346AX F6UZ10346VAX

91-92 8CYL, MOTORCRAFT, 75 AMP E9PZ10346AX

92-92 ALL CYL,MOTORCRAFT,70 AMP F0PZ10346DX

88-97 8CYL 7.3L LEECE-NEVILLE,165 AMP F4UZ10346AX W/AMBULANCE PREP. OPTION PACKAGE

92-95 6CYL 4.9L MOTORCRAFT, 95 AMP F6PZ10346HA

DB doesn't show most of the BB part numbers, and the one it does show has a serpentine pulley. And, from what I can find, all of the ones that would fit a 7.3L have the 3-point fixed mount awa a serp pulley. But their #'s don't match any of the ones in the Interchange.

I am CONFUSED! :nabble_anim_confused: What am I missing?

But, on a positive note, I've formatted the spreadsheet differently to make things more obvious/intuitive. That's 'cause I asked my wife what she understood from the previous format, and she misunderstood what was intended. So, I revised it and bounced that off of her. See what y'all think.

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So, that's the one for the '92 E w/an IDI?

And yes, an ammeter that could be left in place would be cool. It would probably be digital and use a very small shunt.

Shunt 50A, cheap display https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P0W63PY

Shunt 100A, big display https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KPXVNY5

Inductive 200A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B4CWKRJ

But I think they're all unnecessary distractions. A voltmeter & ALT light are sufficient to monitor the charging status.

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Shunt 50A, cheap display https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P0W63PY

Shunt 100A, big display https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KPXVNY5

Inductive 200A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B4CWKRJ

But I think they're all unnecessary distractions. A voltmeter & ALT light are sufficient to monitor the charging status.

Steve - The last one is cool! And for the price it would be nice to have if you were testing an alternator. :nabble_smiley_good:

By the way, did you see my link to your clocking instructions in the draft 3G page? It is about half-way down on the Wiring It tab, under A Word On Clocking. Just want to make sure you are ok with that.

All - Still looking for feedback on the whole thing, but especially on the choke discussion. I see no reason to have it because the 3G supports an e-choke off the stator wire just like a 1G does. So, is there any reason to keep it?

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Steve - The last one is cool! And for the price it would be nice to have if you were testing an alternator. :nabble_smiley_good:

By the way, did you see my link to your clocking instructions in the draft 3G page? It is about half-way down on the Wiring It tab, under A Word On Clocking. Just want to make sure you are ok with that.

All - Still looking for feedback on the whole thing, but especially on the choke discussion. I see no reason to have it because the 3G supports an e-choke off the stator wire just like a 1G does. So, is there any reason to keep it?

You're welcome to link anything. Yes, I'd either dump the whole discussion about the 12V choke heater; or just mention that some people do it, but it's NOT necessary. Also: the indicator light doesn't excite the alternator - the 12V coming from the key just tells the VR (via its I pin) to turn on, whether or not there's a lamp or resistor in the circuit. All the electricity for charging (exciting) the rotor windings comes through the A wire. The lamp is only used when the VR detects a fault, and grounds the I pin. The resistor is only there in case the bulb burns out, so the VR still gets the 12V "on" signal.

...and I noticed a few typos... :nabble_smiley_wink: But my mother psychologically scarred me as a child with proper spelling & grammar. :nabble_smiley_what:

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Steve - The last one is cool! And for the price it would be nice to have if you were testing an alternator. :nabble_smiley_good:

By the way, did you see my link to your clocking instructions in the draft 3G page? It is about half-way down on the Wiring It tab, under A Word On Clocking. Just want to make sure you are ok with that.

All - Still looking for feedback on the whole thing, but especially on the choke discussion. I see no reason to have it because the 3G supports an e-choke off the stator wire just like a 1G does. So, is there any reason to keep it?

I vote to leave the 12v vs 7.5 v electric choke discussion in, maybe even with its own tab, with the confirmation that it's not a functional concern.

There's a lot of back of forth on the subject in other forums with conflicting advice. The pages on this site are distilled into "fact" & verified function, and I would guess others will come here to clarify & would appreciate seeing it addressed.

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I vote to leave the 12v vs 7.5 v electric choke discussion in, maybe even with its own tab, with the confirmation that it's not a functional concern.

There's a lot of back of forth on the subject in other forums with conflicting advice. The pages on this site are distilled into "fact" & verified function, and I would guess others will come here to clarify & would appreciate seeing it addressed.

Steve - Good points on the light/resistor. I didn't write that and will admit I didn't look all that closely at it, but I'll edit that part. And, I'll try to find the typos, but if you see some please point them out as I can use the help.

Mark & Steve - Good points on the choke as well. I like the idea of a new tab and moving it there, maybe with a reference to it in the Wiring It verbiage. Let me see what I can come up with.

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