Rembrant Posted February 4, 2019 Author Share Posted February 4, 2019 There is a small spot on the frame I'm going to need to repair. ...just removing the driver's side spring/shock tower.These captions are relevant to those jobs: That's great info, thanks Steve. So I did some measuring last night of my two transmissions. I have the AOD for sale, so it may disappear pretty quickly. Anyway, according to the tape, the AOD bellhousing face to output flange is 26 11/16", and the M5OD is 29 1/16". So 2 3/8" difference overall. The rear mount difference is about 3", which makes sense as the M5OD crossmember I bought for my 1984 2wd was offset about 3" rearward. I assume the 4x4 M5OD crossmember is the same... Anyway, since I didn't have to modify my driveshaft on my 2wd 5spd swap, I'm starting from scratch here. Based on the info above, is it as simple as lengthening the front shaft by the 2 3/8", and shortening the rear by 2 3/8"? Since I will also be shortening the frame 16", that means the rear driveshaft would have to be shortened a total length of 18 3/8". Is that going to be OK? Does anybody know if the 1988-1996 short wheel base 4x4 5spd F150 trucks just had a 1pc rear driveshaft? Nothing else I need to be concerned about here other than shortening the rear shaft by the 18 3/8"? This isn't happening tomorrow or anything, but I'm just curious so I can file it away for when the time comes. Thanks gents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 So I did some measuring last night of my two transmissions. I have the AOD for sale, so it may disappear pretty quickly. Anyway, according to the tape, the AOD bellhousing face to output flange is 26 11/16", and the M5OD is 29 1/16". So 2 3/8" difference overall. The rear mount difference is about 3", which makes sense as the M5OD crossmember I bought for my 1984 2wd was offset about 3" rearward. I assume the 4x4 M5OD crossmember is the same... Anyway, since I didn't have to modify my driveshaft on my 2wd 5spd swap, I'm starting from scratch here. Based on the info above, is it as simple as lengthening the front shaft by the 2 3/8", and shortening the rear by 2 3/8"? Since I will also be shortening the frame 16", that means the rear driveshaft would have to be shortened a total length of 18 3/8". Is that going to be OK? Does anybody know if the 1988-1996 short wheel base 4x4 5spd F150 trucks just had a 1pc rear driveshaft? Nothing else I need to be concerned about here other than shortening the rear shaft by the 18 3/8"? This isn't happening tomorrow or anything, but I'm just curious so I can file it away for when the time comes. Thanks gents. Yes, I do believe the 1988 trucks you described had a one-piece driveshaft. Here's what I found. And before you ask: NOTE 1 - transfer case to frt. axle NOTE 2 - transfer case to rear axle NOTE 104 - use 2-C3AZ 4635-G frt. & ctr., 1-C3AZ 4635-H rear NOTE 118 - use C3AZ 4635-G frt. & ctr., C3AZ 4635-H rear, C7TZ 4841-A drv/shft, D7TZ 4841—D cpl/shft NOTE 121 - use C3AZ 4635-H U/JT front & rear, C3AZ 4635-G U/JT center NOTE 122 - "Before 2/88 NOTE 123 - "From 2/88" NOTE 125 - E7TZ 4841-A yoke drv/shft end, D7TZ 4841-D yoke cpl/shft end, C3AZ 4635-H u/jt rr, C3AZ 4635-G u/jt frt & ctr NOTE 158 - Campaign Unfortunately, after '86 the listings didn't show the driveshaft length, so I can't tell you how long that one is. But, I can say it was also used in the same '89 trucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted February 4, 2019 Author Share Posted February 4, 2019 Yes, I do believe the 1988 trucks you described had a one-piece driveshaft. Here's what I found. And before you ask: NOTE 1 - transfer case to frt. axle NOTE 2 - transfer case to rear axle NOTE 104 - use 2-C3AZ 4635-G frt. & ctr., 1-C3AZ 4635-H rear NOTE 118 - use C3AZ 4635-G frt. & ctr., C3AZ 4635-H rear, C7TZ 4841-A drv/shft, D7TZ 4841—D cpl/shft NOTE 121 - use C3AZ 4635-H U/JT front & rear, C3AZ 4635-G U/JT center NOTE 122 - "Before 2/88 NOTE 123 - "From 2/88" NOTE 125 - E7TZ 4841-A yoke drv/shft end, D7TZ 4841-D yoke cpl/shft end, C3AZ 4635-H u/jt rr, C3AZ 4635-G u/jt frt & ctr NOTE 158 - Campaign Unfortunately, after '86 the listings didn't show the driveshaft length, so I can't tell you how long that one is. But, I can say it was also used in the same '89 trucks. Interesting that the wheelbase is indicated as 116". I thought the short wheel base trucks like mine were 117"? Mistake in the Ford chart?... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 ...is it as simple as lengthening the front shaft by the 2 3/8", and shortening the rear by 2 3/8"? Since I will also be shortening the frame 16", that means the rear driveshaft would have to be shortened a total length of 18 3/8". Is that going to be OK?If you think they're correct now, then that would keep them close to correct. But since they're NOT exactly parallel to the frame, your frame-shortening distance isn't the same as the d'shaft distance. The difference is PROBABLY negligible, but with all the mods you're doing, I wouldn't blindly take the chance. This TSB is Ford's recommendation: https://supermotors.net/getfile/816251/thumbnail/drivelineanglesguide.jpg But ultimately, you really need to measure the distances between mounting surfaces AFTER the truck is built, with all its weight on the suspension. http://www.4xshaft.com/MeasuringGuide.pdfI thought the short wheel base trucks like mine were 117"? Mistake in the Ford chart?What does the VC label say? https://supermotors.net/getfile/72354/thumbnail/doorsticker.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted February 4, 2019 Author Share Posted February 4, 2019 What does the VC label say? For the Bullnose trucks, I've only ever seen 117" for short wheelbase. I was just wondering where the 116" came from on Gary's list above. I thought the 1987-1996 short wheelbase trucks were the same 117". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted February 4, 2019 Author Share Posted February 4, 2019 There is a small spot on the frame I'm going to need to repair. ...just removing the driver's side spring/shock tower.These captions are relevant to those jobs: https://supermotors.net/getfile/260055/thumbnail/rivetreplacement.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/895898/thumbnail/frameb8081.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/467402/thumbnail/tsb970310fig5.jpg Steve, Do you have anything that on the frame crossmembers? Specifically, I'm looking for info on the rear cab crossmember, where the cab rear mounts sit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 Do you have anything that on the frame crossmembers? Specifically, I'm looking for info on the rear cab crossmember, where the cab rear mounts sit.I don't understand the question. Those links apply to the whole frame, including all the crossmembers. What info are you looking for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 There is a small spot on the frame I'm going to need to repair. ...just removing the driver's side spring/shock tower.These captions are relevant to those jobs: https://supermotors.net/getfile/260055/thumbnail/rivetreplacement.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/895898/thumbnail/frameb8081.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/467402/thumbnail/tsb970310fig5.jpg Steve, Do you have anything that on the frame crossmembers? Specifically, I'm looking for info on the rear cab crossmember, where the cab rear mounts sit. First I have not looked at the chart so could be talking out my .... As far as I know unless extended cab the frames are the same from front bumper mounts to that rear cab mount and from what I remember of the parts truck frame and mine they were the same. Now I did not pay to much attention from rear of cab back on frame cross members. I do know the bolt in one that is for the front mount of rear tank or for the under bed tire mount can be inter changed as I did that to mount the rear tank for my duel tank setup. The other thing I know is the rear 3 bed (maybe it was 4? would have to look now) to frame bolts line up between the long bed & short bed trucks. IIRC the short bed has 1 less set of bolts, the most forward set. I did need to move a bed cross member but did not need to drill new bed mounting holes and why I think 4. Now in trying to mount the bed exh heat shields because the rear of the beds & frames seam to be the same the rear shield fit but the longer front one needs to fit between the bed & frame and I think just the short time I was trying to fit it the frame cross member was in a different place. IIRC it was the next one back from the rear cab mount cross member above the muffler on a 300 six truck factory location. Being you have both frames for measuring and I am pretty sure the rear cab mounts for standard cabs are in the same location measure from there on back to see where the next cross member lands. Kind of what I had to do to see if I could use the parts truck rib metal floor to replace the wood floor but I had more fun as the long style side bed was still in place. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted February 5, 2019 Author Share Posted February 5, 2019 Being you have both frames for measuring and I am pretty sure the rear cab mounts for standard cabs are in the same location measure from there on back to see where the next cross member lands. My question on the crossmember was kind of a false alarm. I wasn't looking for the location of the crossmember on the frame, I was looking for the size and location of the cab mount holes within the crossmember. When I was searching around some more, I found that Bronco Graveyard sells "Frame Saver" kits for $20 bucks, which will probably do the trick just fine. They're basically washers for repairing rusted out cab mount holes. I have a lot of welding to do...lol. Oh well...I asked for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted February 5, 2019 Author Share Posted February 5, 2019 Being you have both frames for measuring and I am pretty sure the rear cab mounts for standard cabs are in the same location measure from there on back to see where the next cross member lands. My question on the crossmember was kind of a false alarm. I wasn't looking for the location of the crossmember on the frame, I was looking for the size and location of the cab mount holes within the crossmember. When I was searching around some more, I found that Bronco Graveyard sells "Frame Saver" kits for $20 bucks, which will probably do the trick just fine. They're basically washers for repairing rusted out cab mount holes. I have a lot of welding to do...lol. Oh well...I asked for it. Oh, and I stopped to look at a replacement cab today. The VIN tag was still on it, so I could confirm that it was a 1985 reg cab from a 2wd F150 with 300/6. It needs some work, but is pretty solid over all. Half a dozen small holes in the floor, and a couple holes in the roof I assume from one of those visors?...I dunno. A few little dings and spots to fix up, but no big deal over all. Cab corners and rockers all good. Cab mounting areas all good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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