Rembrant Posted February 3, 2019 Author Share Posted February 3, 2019 The torque converter nuts are probably 9/16" (or 14mm). Mark one of the studs & its flexplate hole with paint to indicate the original assembly orientation. Also mark the flexplate to the crank hub - I like to use a cold chisel for that (since it's truly permanent) and then add paint for visibility. Thanks Steve. I got it out this morning. Once I got going it all came back to me;). I hadn't pulled an auto trans in 25 years, so my memory was fuzzy on the topic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted February 3, 2019 Author Share Posted February 3, 2019 Thanks Steve. I got it out this morning. Once I got going it all came back to me;). I hadn't pulled an auto trans in 25 years, so my memory was fuzzy on the topic. Hey, Have any of you guys ever removed the crossmember under the engine? Picture below is just an example from the web. Drilling the rivets out is no problem, I'm just wondering if this particular crossmember can be maneuvered out from between the rails?... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 Hey, Have any of you guys ever removed the crossmember under the engine? Picture below is just an example from the web. Drilling the rivets out is no problem, I'm just wondering if this particular crossmember can be maneuvered out from between the rails?... Glad you got it out. As for the crossmember, I've replaced the engine stands and replaced some bolts on the crossmember, not removed the whole unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 Glad you got it out. As for the crossmember, I've replaced the engine stands and replaced some bolts on the crossmember, not removed the whole unit. Man you are starting to make me look bad on not working on my truck I got to ask why do you want to remove that cross member? The only thing I think is different between them is the 460 ones with the notch for the oil filter no? I did pull the 300 six frame stands off the parts truck frame before it went to it's new home up north. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 Man you are starting to make me look bad on not working on my truck I got to ask why do you want to remove that cross member? The only thing I think is different between them is the 460 ones with the notch for the oil filter no? I did pull the 300 six frame stands off the parts truck frame before it went to it's new home up north. Dave ---- Dave - I think you are right. The 460 crossmember is different but the others are the same. I think. So I wondered the same question of why remove it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted February 4, 2019 Author Share Posted February 4, 2019 So I wondered the same question of why remove it. There is a small spot on the frame I'm going to need to repair. I was thinking that I'd have to remove that crossmember to fix properly, but after looking at it some more, I don't think it will be too bad. I should be able to fix it by just removing the driver's side spring/shock tower. I have another weekend worth of work to finish stripping the frame on this old thing. On a good note, I have a sale pending on the AOD trans and associated parts (starter, flexplate, etc), and I've located a 302 manual trans bellhousing tin cover for $25 bucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted February 4, 2019 Author Share Posted February 4, 2019 Man you are starting to make me look bad on not working on my truck Dave, I had a busy weekend getting the old truck stripped, but things are going to slow way down on this thing right now. I basically have it down to the frame now. Few other odds and ends to remove...brake lines, power steering box, etc. This thing is getting quite a bit of work...both in repairs and in shortening. It may be on the road next year...maybe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 So I wondered the same question of why remove it. There is a small spot on the frame I'm going to need to repair. I was thinking that I'd have to remove that crossmember to fix properly, but after looking at it some more, I don't think it will be too bad. I should be able to fix it by just removing the driver's side spring/shock tower. I have another weekend worth of work to finish stripping the frame on this old thing. On a good note, I have a sale pending on the AOD trans and associated parts (starter, flexplate, etc), and I've located a 302 manual trans bellhousing tin cover for $25 bucks. Now I understand. Hope you can repair it w/o removing the crossmember though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 There is a small spot on the frame I'm going to need to repair. ...just removing the driver's side spring/shock tower.These captions are relevant to those jobs: https://supermotors.net/getfile/260055/thumbnail/rivetreplacement.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/895898/thumbnail/frameb8081.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/467402/thumbnail/tsb970310fig5.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted February 4, 2019 Author Share Posted February 4, 2019 There is a small spot on the frame I'm going to need to repair. ...just removing the driver's side spring/shock tower.These captions are relevant to those jobs: That's great info, thanks Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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