Frank Wyatt Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 Usually by the time I need penetrating oil, the threads have either rusted away entirely, or the six points of the hex nut have corroded away making the nut a little rusty lump.Well, for a test to be scientific, it has to be repeatable - which means he needs MANY identically-rusted fasteners that are in good-enough condition to test. And penetrating oil can't restore Iron that's just GONE - nothing will allow you to unscrew a fastener that has no threads, or drive head. So that's not what penetrants are for, anyway (despite it being what everyone uses them for). His test really was the correct use for those oils. Your use (and mine) is well-beyond what a few drops of oil can do, so our use isn't realistic, no matter how common it is. However, I would argue that his previous test (which I didn't see) involving multiple applications over several hours IS realistic for fasteners in that condition: https://supermotors.net/getfile/1134322/thumbnail/20180601_180411.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/1137770/thumbnail/20180802_170114.jpg The fact that no one does it is irrelevant - it just means they're lazy, or they waited too late to begin the process. Yes, that's right. I usually try to at least have some time to allow the penetrant to soak, even if it's only an hour. It just works better, other wise it's no different than not using any. My personal favorites have always been PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench. I've had excellent results from Aero Kroil also. I was surprised it tested poorly for him. My personal experience it surpassed PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench, but for my uses, it is too expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 So that's not what penetrants are for, anyway (despite it being what everyone uses them for). His test really was the correct use for those oils. Your use (and mine) is well-beyond what a few drops of oil can do, so our use isn't realistic, no matter how common it is. Haha...no, no Steve, I understand what the correct uses are for penetrating oils, and I thought his tests were quite good. As I said, the time and effort he put into that is impressive. I was just showing my southern envy there wishing that I had less rust to deal with than I often do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted January 17, 2019 Share Posted January 17, 2019 Very interesting, and vastly more-scientific than most YouTubers I've seen. Unfortunately, it didn't include my favorite penetrants: Liquid Wrench & PB Blaster. I also expected to see Kroil. Those are good ones. IMHO of course. Ever use Mouse Milk? https://www.amazon.com/Mouse-Milk-Oil-8-Oz/dp/B0049C7170 We used to use Mopar Heat Valve Solvent or Penetrant, forget the exact name, on aircraft turbocharger waste gates. Spray in on, let it sit and then hit it with an air rivet gun with a 2x4 in between. I have not heard of the Mopar Heat Valve Solvent since the late 70's when I worked at a Dodge / Chry / Plym dealer ship in the body shop. Kroil works great when I used it in HVAC at a hospital and would be my go to if I could find it on the store shelves. I have PB Blaster on hand but don't think it works to good as it seams to dry out if left to soak in. Also not happy with Liquid Wrench. I have some ATF & WD-40 mixed that I was pouring in plug holes on a stuck motor, have not checked if it worked yet? Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted January 17, 2019 Share Posted January 17, 2019 Very interesting, and vastly more-scientific than most YouTubers I've seen. Unfortunately, it didn't include my favorite penetrants: Liquid Wrench & PB Blaster. I also expected to see Kroil. Those are good ones. IMHO of course. Ever use Mouse Milk? https://www.amazon.com/Mouse-Milk-Oil-8-Oz/dp/B0049C7170 We used to use Mopar Heat Valve Solvent or Penetrant, forget the exact name, on aircraft turbocharger waste gates. Spray in on, let it sit and then hit it with an air rivet gun with a 2x4 in between. I have not heard of the Mopar Heat Valve Solvent since the late 70's when I worked at a Dodge / Chry / Plym dealer ship in the body shop. Kroil works great when I used it in HVAC at a hospital and would be my go to if I could find it on the store shelves. I have PB Blaster on hand but don't think it works to good as it seams to dry out if left to soak in. Also not happy with Liquid Wrench. I have some ATF & WD-40 mixed that I was pouring in plug holes on a stuck motor, have not checked if it worked yet? Dave ---- I agree on the Kroil. Another that impressed me was Pyroil penetrating oil. I haven't seen it lately either. http://pyroilchemicals.com/products/pyroil-penetrating-oil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted January 18, 2019 Share Posted January 18, 2019 Ford F834, I stumbled across this video about a year ago when researching how to tame the rust of a "northern" truck. (Ferdinand has spent nearly his entire life around Pittsburgh Pa). I was quite satisfied with the effort and detail in the video! Thanks for sharing it here. It has been a help to me and I am sure it will be to others. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted January 19, 2019 Author Share Posted January 19, 2019 Thanks for sharing it here. It has been a help to me and I am sure it will be to others. Did this convince you to use any particular product? Just curious (since you are working on a rust belt truck) what you decided to use and how well it did in the real world? I have to agreee with others here that if I know I will be tackling some tough bolts I start applying penetrating oil well in advance, and may make several applications even days before I go to wrench on it. Liquid wrench has been my usual stand-by, but it does seem to evaporate quickly and maybe isn’t the best for soaking over time. But I live in Arizona, what do I know about “rust”? 🤔 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted January 19, 2019 Share Posted January 19, 2019 Thanks for sharing it here. It has been a help to me and I am sure it will be to others. Did this convince you to use any particular product? Just curious (since you are working on a rust belt truck) what you decided to use and how well it did in the real world? I have to agreee with others here that if I know I will be tackling some tough bolts I start applying penetrating oil well in advance, and may make several applications even days before I go to wrench on it. Liquid wrench has been my usual stand-by, but it does seem to evaporate quickly and maybe isn’t the best for soaking over time. But I live in Arizona, what do I know about “rust”? 🤔 Next time I am in the auto parts store I want to see if they have the Sea Foam deep creep oil. I used the gas treatment in a small wood chipper, 5hp engine, that sat for years with bad gas. I rebuilt the carb and it started but ran like crap. I added 2 time the sea foam treatment for the tank size and the longer it ran the better it got, that made a believer in sea foam. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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