Lost and cornfused

[Steve83]

But I don't know of the "nice battery source on the driver's side, the insulated stud". I'm not familiar with that source, but it would certainly simplify things to have power closer to where the relay may need to be. Can you provide a pic or show it somehow?

It's indicated in this diagram by a pointer in the stock wiring:

https://supermotors.net/getfile/905422/thumbnail/battrelayaux.jpg

Here's the rare item itself:

https://supermotors.net/getfile/980254/thumbnail/bindingpost.jpg

They're available new in a variety of shapes, colors, & forms:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00784HYI2

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CCGCWKD

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C45948D

IDK why anyone would want a red & black pair since there's no reason to insulate the ground side - it can just be a bolt or stud in the body, on the frame, or in the engine (which already exist).

For the passenger's side, just use the starter relay, like Ford did. For '92-up (or older trucks with that wiring swapped in ), there's one under a sliding cover on the PDB on the driver's side.

https://supermotors.net/getfile/973053/thumbnail/33fusek.jpg

[Hstrymkrs]

Good idea. Here's a link to the Street/Strip Ford DUI distributor. May not be the right one, but it has several points:

• They say you "must" remove the ballast resistor in the wiring harness and run a 12 gauge wire to the "BATT" terminal

• They recommend manifold vacuum as "This vacuum advance will keep your plugs cleaner. If your car does not run good at manifold vacuum, then connect it to ported vacuum."

• They suggest gapping the plugs at .050" to .055" "now that you have enough firepower available"

• They recommend setting the initial timing to 12 degrees BTDC while idling below 600 RPM and with the vacuum hose pulled off the advance and plugged.

Correct, Gary. I have read their FAQs and this is how they recommend setup. If I run off vacuum, then I can wire into the tach wire that is listed on the above diagram that you pointed out. If not, then I will run the vacuum line from the manifold. I am leaning toward the vacuum now.

As I mentioned before, the end goal of this project is not 100% known. My father and I have some differing opinions on where we want to take this Bronco. I am doing the labor, and he is doing the financing. We are both open minded...sort of. Depending on the end goal, just a trail/rock crawler, then the vacuum might not be as big of a deal as it will most always be under load. If it is an all around trail/daily driver type of ride, then the vacuum will be beneficial.

It seems almost too easy and straight forward. That is one of the reasons why I brought up the question.

 

[Hstrymkrs]

But I don't know of the "nice battery source on the driver's side, the insulated stud". I'm not familiar with that source, but it would certainly simplify things to have power closer to where the relay may need to be. Can you provide a pic or show it somehow?

It's indicated in this diagram by a pointer in the stock wiring:

https://supermotors.net/getfile/905422/thumbnail/battrelayaux.jpg

Here's the rare item itself:

https://supermotors.net/getfile/980254/thumbnail/bindingpost.jpg

They're available new in a variety of shapes, colors, & forms:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00784HYI2

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CCGCWKD

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C45948D

IDK why anyone would want a red & black pair since there's no reason to insulate the ground side - it can just be a bolt or stud in the body, on the frame, or in the engine (which already exist).

For the passenger's side, just use the starter relay, like Ford did. For '92-up (or older trucks with that wiring swapped in ), there's one under a sliding cover on the PDB on the driver's side.

https://supermotors.net/getfile/973053/thumbnail/33fusek.jpg

I will look, but I don't think I have this accessory post on the Bronco. Now that I know what it looks like, I might better be able to find it.

[85lebaront2]

I will look, but I don't think I have this accessory post on the Bronco. Now that I know what it looks like, I might better be able to find it.

Figure 4 page 19 of the 1986 EVTM shows it's location, it is called the Left Side Junction Block.

[Gary Lewis]

Correct, Gary. I have read their FAQs and this is how they recommend setup. If I run off vacuum, then I can wire into the tach wire that is listed on the above diagram that you pointed out. If not, then I will run the vacuum line from the manifold. I am leaning toward the vacuum now.

As I mentioned before, the end goal of this project is not 100% known. My father and I have some differing opinions on where we want to take this Bronco. I am doing the labor, and he is doing the financing. We are both open minded...sort of. Depending on the end goal, just a trail/rock crawler, then the vacuum might not be as big of a deal as it will most always be under load. If it is an all around trail/daily driver type of ride, then the vacuum will be beneficial.

It seems almost too easy and straight forward. That is one of the reasons why I brought up the question.

William - I may have misunderstood, but the vacuum and tach issues are separate. You have a dark green/yellow wire, which you can see in the first of the two diagrams I posted, that goes to the tach. You'll connect that wire to the Tach terminal on the DUI dizzy. And, the dizzy will have a vacuum port on the front of it that you'll take to some source of either manifold or ported vacuum. But, I probably misunderstood.

However, I'm with you on that power stud - I doubt yours has it. I have two Bullnose trucks, and have owned bunches of them. And of all those only one has the stud - Big Blue, which also has the trailering option and auxiliary battery. I believe that it takes one or the other of those, or the camper option, to get that stud.

So, as Steve said, the fall-back is to go to the always-hot side of the solenoid - and then make sure you fuse it! DUI says it should be a #12 wire, so the question becomes how big of a fuse to use. I'd say a 20 amp fuse would be fine, although #12 is good for more than that. (Steve - I know that there are many different tables on that, but I just turned in a copy of Ford's Body Building book to scan and as I was looking to see which pages I wanted scanned I found a table which said that #14 is good for 25 amps. I wish I had the book now, but that must mean Ford thought #12 is good for 35 or 40 amps!)

[ArdWrknTrk]

William - I may have misunderstood, but the vacuum and tach issues are separate. You have a dark green/yellow wire, which you can see in the first of the two diagrams I posted, that goes to the tach. You'll connect that wire to the Tach terminal on the DUI dizzy. And, the dizzy will have a vacuum port on the front of it that you'll take to some source of either manifold or ported vacuum. But, I probably misunderstood.

However, I'm with you on that power stud - I doubt yours has it. I have two Bullnose trucks, and have owned bunches of them. And of all those only one has the stud - Big Blue, which also has the trailering option and auxiliary battery. I believe that it takes one or the other of those, or the camper option, to get that stud.

So, as Steve said, the fall-back is to go to the always-hot side of the solenoid - and then make sure you fuse it! DUI says it should be a #12 wire, so the question becomes how big of a fuse to use. I'd say a 20 amp fuse would be fine, although #12 is good for more than that. (Steve - I know that there are many different tables on that, but I just turned in a copy of Ford's Body Building book to scan and as I was looking to see which pages I wanted scanned I found a table which said that #14 is good for 25 amps. I wish I had the book now, but that must mean Ford thought #12 is good for 35 or 40 amps!)

12Ga @ 20A is NEC for solid copper wire in a wall.

It is derated quite a bit.

There are tables online showing ratings for stranded copper in a wiring harness.

Yes, it's probably 30A or more.

[85lebaront2]

William - I may have misunderstood, but the vacuum and tach issues are separate. You have a dark green/yellow wire, which you can see in the first of the two diagrams I posted, that goes to the tach. You'll connect that wire to the Tach terminal on the DUI dizzy. And, the dizzy will have a vacuum port on the front of it that you'll take to some source of either manifold or ported vacuum. But, I probably misunderstood.

However, I'm with you on that power stud - I doubt yours has it. I have two Bullnose trucks, and have owned bunches of them. And of all those only one has the stud - Big Blue, which also has the trailering option and auxiliary battery. I believe that it takes one or the other of those, or the camper option, to get that stud.

So, as Steve said, the fall-back is to go to the always-hot side of the solenoid - and then make sure you fuse it! DUI says it should be a #12 wire, so the question becomes how big of a fuse to use. I'd say a 20 amp fuse would be fine, although #12 is good for more than that. (Steve - I know that there are many different tables on that, but I just turned in a copy of Ford's Body Building book to scan and as I was looking to see which pages I wanted scanned I found a table which said that #14 is good for 25 amps. I wish I had the book now, but that must mean Ford thought #12 is good for 35 or 40 amps!)

Gary, William, even if the junction block isn't there, the yellow circuit 37 wire should be there with an open connection available. I think it would be a 1/4" terminal but can't remember or determine whether it would be male or female. If it will help, the Bosch relays in my Chrysler PDC have a 40 amp fuse for the cooling fans and I believe the internal feeds are #12 in it.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, William, even if the junction block isn't there, the yellow circuit 37 wire should be there with an open connection available. I think it would be a 1/4" terminal but can't remember or determine whether it would be male or female. If it will help, the Bosch relays in my Chrysler PDC have a 40 amp fuse for the cooling fans and I believe the internal feeds are #12 in it.

Jim - I agree that it is derated quite a bit in all the tables, but Ford's rating for #14 boggled my mind. The rating for #14 of 15 amps has always been my reference point, but to see it at 25 was strange. No wonder the headlights dim. I'll bet they've got #18 rated at 10+ amps.

Next week some time I'm to get that book back scanned and I'll be creating a page for it in Specifications. Then we shall know.

Bill - I believe you are right that Circuit 37 is there, and that it has a female 1/4" terminal. So that would be a good place to get the power for this. Notice that the fuselink is #14, assuming the truck has an ammeter, so it is effectively fused at something more than 25 amps. Do we think it still needs its own fuse coming off the end of #37?

[Hstrymkrs]

William - I may have misunderstood, but the vacuum and tach issues are separate. You have a dark green/yellow wire, which you can see in the first of the two diagrams I posted, that goes to the tach. You'll connect that wire to the Tach terminal on the DUI dizzy. And, the dizzy will have a vacuum port on the front of it that you'll take to some source of either manifold or ported vacuum. But, I probably misunderstood.

However, I'm with you on that power stud - I doubt yours has it. I have two Bullnose trucks, and have owned bunches of them. And of all those only one has the stud - Big Blue, which also has the trailering option and auxiliary battery. I believe that it takes one or the other of those, or the camper option, to get that stud.

So, as Steve said, the fall-back is to go to the always-hot side of the solenoid - and then make sure you fuse it! DUI says it should be a #12 wire, so the question becomes how big of a fuse to use. I'd say a 20 amp fuse would be fine, although #12 is good for more than that. (Steve - I know that there are many different tables on that, but I just turned in a copy of Ford's Body Building book to scan and as I was looking to see which pages I wanted scanned I found a table which said that #14 is good for 25 amps. I wish I had the book now, but that must mean Ford thought #12 is good for 35 or 40 amps!)

I agree that the hot side of the solenoid would be the better option and I would fuse the #12 ga wire.

[Gary Lewis]

I agree that the hot side of the solenoid would be the better option and I would fuse the #12 ga wire.

William - Could you do me, and I think you, a favor? Please confirm that you have C232, as shown below. This would be, as Bill and Steve pointed out, the easiest place for you to get power as it is on the driver's side of the truck so you don't have to run a wire all the way across.

Here's the illustration from the EVTM showing the area just to the right of the brake master cylinder, with C232 circled. It will be a big yellow wire with a grayish green connector that probably isn't connected to anything.

And here's Big Blue's C232. You can see that it is connected to the aux battery solenoid, exactly like the illustration above shows. But since you probably don't have an aux battery or the trailer wiring then that wire isn't used.