Lost and cornfused

[Steve83]

I am deleting the EGR/Smog pump only because it adds extra cost to bringing this thing back up and running. My smog pump is seized...

EGR is good for the engine - it prevents damage when the mixture runs lean (even briefly). And it's not an expensive system to maintain or repair.

The 2ndry air pump is usually VERY easy to repair for nearly no cost.

https://supermotors.net/getfile/766465/thumbnail/02smogpump.jpg

I know these are stock pictures, but they all show the vacuum hookup.

I didn't see any pics in your post.

[Hstrymkrs]

I am deleting the EGR/Smog pump only because it adds extra cost to bringing this thing back up and running. My smog pump is seized...

EGR is good for the engine - it prevents damage when the mixture runs lean (even briefly). And it's not an expensive system to maintain or repair.

The 2ndry air pump is usually VERY easy to repair for nearly no cost.

https://supermotors.net/getfile/766465/thumbnail/02smogpump.jpg

I know these are stock pictures, but they all show the vacuum hookup.

I didn't see any pics in your post.

The pic with the vacuum that I referred to was the one Gary posted. I was confused on how to work the vacuum advance if my current system doesn't have it. I never found any pictures of the ones without the vacuum hook up, and that was my befuddlement. It makes sense that it will need some sort of means to know when to advance/retard/adjust. Please bear with me while I learn this stuff.

I attempted to dismantle the air pump, and while doing so a tone of grey/black plastic looking pieces fell out. I will look at it again.

I have no problem putting it back to stock or using the DS-II. I have been reading, and it seemed simpler and less costly (this includes time spent searching junk yard sites that never tell me anything) with the one wire hook up. However, I was never sold on this as being the way to go, and I only want a reliable and strong engine when this is done.

Thanks for the video embedding help, Gary. I remember seeing that as a child and always thinking it was ridiculous and awesome at the same time. Classic Chuck movie!

Thank you all for the help.

William

[Gary Lewis]

The pic with the vacuum that I referred to was the one Gary posted. I was confused on how to work the vacuum advance if my current system doesn't have it. I never found any pictures of the ones without the vacuum hook up, and that was my befuddlement. It makes sense that it will need some sort of means to know when to advance/retard/adjust. Please bear with me while I learn this stuff.

I attempted to dismantle the air pump, and while doing so a tone of grey/black plastic looking pieces fell out. I will look at it again.

I have no problem putting it back to stock or using the DS-II. I have been reading, and it seemed simpler and less costly (this includes time spent searching junk yard sites that never tell me anything) with the one wire hook up. However, I was never sold on this as being the way to go, and I only want a reliable and strong engine when this is done.

Thanks for the video embedding help, Gary. I remember seeing that as a child and always thinking it was ridiculous and awesome at the same time. Classic Chuck movie!

Thank you all for the help.

William

This may not be a popular opinion, but I'd bet that a one-wire system will be equally reliable and powerful as using a DS-II. Further, I'll bet that either a one-wire or DS-II will be easier to maintain, long term, for you than the stock system.

My reasoning for the latter is that the stock system has a number of components, wiring, and vacuum hoses to make it work. And, every bit of it is required to make it work properly. And every bit of it is over 30 years old.

But, and this is a big "but", installing a one-wire system or DS-II system will require significant change as the distributor has to be changed and some wiring must be changed. And then, if you do just that, you'll have a fair amount of unused components and wiring left on the truck, which you can either leave or remove at your discretion.

We can work you through any of the options and, as you can see, are happy to cuss and discuss them in print. And each of us have our own opinions on which is best. But what we don't know is your level of comfort with making changes, or your ability to do electrical wiring, pull and replace distributors, etc.

So, maybe we should here (see?) from you what your level of comfort is. What questions and concerns you have. How good/experienced are you as a mechanic or electrical wirer?

[Hstrymkrs]

This may not be a popular opinion, but I'd bet that a one-wire system will be equally reliable and powerful as using a DS-II. Further, I'll bet that either a one-wire or DS-II will be easier to maintain, long term, for you than the stock system.

My reasoning for the latter is that the stock system has a number of components, wiring, and vacuum hoses to make it work. And, every bit of it is required to make it work properly. And every bit of it is over 30 years old.

But, and this is a big "but", installing a one-wire system or DS-II system will require significant change as the distributor has to be changed and some wiring must be changed. And then, if you do just that, you'll have a fair amount of unused components and wiring left on the truck, which you can either leave or remove at your discretion.

We can work you through any of the options and, as you can see, are happy to cuss and discuss them in print. And each of us have our own opinions on which is best. But what we don't know is your level of comfort with making changes, or your ability to do electrical wiring, pull and replace distributors, etc.

So, maybe we should here (see?) from you what your level of comfort is. What questions and concerns you have. How good/experienced are you as a mechanic or electrical wirer?

To be honest. I am comfortable with most all things electrical and mechanical. Having worked on generators has made me comfortable with troubleshooting etc. I have just never ventured this far down the road.

I was lost at how to turn a mechanical/electrical system into a vacuum controlled system. I also was lost on how the websites show options, then state not for my application. I then thought I was barking up the wrong tree.

What I have is time and skills. Knowledge I am gaining along the way. Money is a factor, but given enough time the money will get there. I hope to eventually put better axles under it if the options are available. So I can't put all my money into engine work.

You will find that I am a highly trainable guy, I just have a lot of questions as I learn and try to grow.

The statement about possibly being easier to maintain is exactly what I was wondering. The one wire system seems easier to install and maintain as I am not sure that my current wiring is up to par. This is on my list. If I end up deleting the EGR/smog pump, then it seems reasonable to just go the street DUI system as it will be a no feedback carb.

The carb and offy intake is a system should be a great combination. Is the carb too big? I don't know as I have read positive and negatives to both. My hope was to gain insights from you all as I thought this to be the friendlier of all the other forums.

My current distibutor is toast as when I was looking at it the other day, plastic pieces were falling out from under the rotor and the connection for the ICM was loose and looked broken as well. This engine sat up for approximately 13 years. The worst thing for any engine is to not be run with a load on it. The engine has been machined and is ready to go as soon as I give it the three necessities: Air/compression, Fuel, and Spark. All the other stuff just depends on one's goals. A friend use to own a 70s model Ford truck with the same engine. I think there was only 3-4 wires total from what I remember. It was simple and ran great. That is all I want. A good running engine that is reliable. I am open to suggestions, and I am open to doing the work if it is a benefit.

Thank you, again.

William

[Steve83]

...grey/black plastic looking pieces fell out.

Then it's trash. But a usable JY pump is usually easy-to-find, and a parts store reman is usually affordable. I recommend keeping everything working because it's a good habit, and emissions components are required by law everywhere.

[ArdWrknTrk]

To be honest. I am comfortable with most all things electrical and mechanical. Having worked on generators has made me comfortable with troubleshooting etc. I have just never ventured this far down the road.

I was lost at how to turn a mechanical/electrical system into a vacuum controlled system. I also was lost on how the websites show options, then state not for my application. I then thought I was barking up the wrong tree.

What I have is time and skills. Knowledge I am gaining along the way. Money is a factor, but given enough time the money will get there. I hope to eventually put better axles under it if the options are available. So I can't put all my money into engine work.

You will find that I am a highly trainable guy, I just have a lot of questions as I learn and try to grow.

The statement about possibly being easier to maintain is exactly what I was wondering. The one wire system seems easier to install and maintain as I am not sure that my current wiring is up to par. This is on my list. If I end up deleting the EGR/smog pump, then it seems reasonable to just go the street DUI system as it will be a no feedback carb.

The carb and offy intake is a system should be a great combination. Is the carb too big? I don't know as I have read positive and negatives to both. My hope was to gain insights from you all as I thought this to be the friendlier of all the other forums.

My current distibutor is toast as when I was looking at it the other day, plastic pieces were falling out from under the rotor and the connection for the ICM was loose and looked broken as well. This engine sat up for approximately 13 years. The worst thing for any engine is to not be run with a load on it. The engine has been machined and is ready to go as soon as I give it the three necessities: Air/compression, Fuel, and Spark. All the other stuff just depends on one's goals. A friend use to own a 70s model Ford truck with the same engine. I think there was only 3-4 wires total from what I remember. It was simple and ran great. That is all I want. A good running engine that is reliable. I am open to suggestions, and I am open to doing the work if it is a benefit.

Thank you, again.

William

William.

You're not being difficult or even too lost.

You've already committed to a carb and intake, so I don't think there's any going back.

But again, I'm not sure of your situation or regulations.

Do what you want or need to do.

Again, I'm sorry if I posted a bad link to the earlier short shaft dizzys.

Check out the four links I posted.

Same item, two different sellers, with storefronts on Amazon and eBay.

Sure "Chinese" but $100-120 is a deal and I have watched these products get better and better over the years.

I think going the 'all in one' route would be easiest given what you say.

It really is only one wire controlled by a relay.

... unless you have a tach, and then you need to connect that green wire to a second plug beneath the distributor.

For vacuum advance of the timing you have a choice of 'ported' or 'manifold' vacuum.

Ported vacuum would come from the carburetor and manifold vacuum would come from an inlet runner or the junction block on the firewall beneath the cowl.

Ported vacuum is zero at closed throttle, where Manifold is full.

There are pros and cons to each..

You seem comfortable with wiring, so you should order a "Bosch style" cube relay and a pigtail socket with integral mounting tab.

Again, Amazon or eBay around $10 for the set.

The existing coil wire would trigger the relay and power would come from the always hot side of the starter relay via a 10-12 Ga wire.

Power to 30, new distributor to 87, coil trigger to 85 and 86 to ground.

Hope this helps.

 

[Hstrymkrs]

...grey/black plastic looking pieces fell out.

Then it's trash. But a usable JY pump is usually easy-to-find, and a parts store reman is usually affordable. I recommend keeping everything working because it's a good habit, and emissions components are required by law everywhere.

Hmm. I will have to search for the emission laws in Kentucky as there are no vehicle inspections. My exhaust manifold is toast as well, so that is also why it seemed easier to just delete and go back with headers. I will do more research.

Thanks.

William

[Johns3524]

Hmm. I will have to search for the emission laws in Kentucky as there are no vehicle inspections. My exhaust manifold is toast as well, so that is also why it seemed easier to just delete and go back with headers. I will do more research.

Thanks.

William

Im late in this discussion but may I say whatever distributor you use remember it will also will be called upon to drive your oil pump. My persoanl choice is to stick with a ford Diz, and since most of the wiring is already there, use an 83 DS II diz...

1 man, 1 vote. good luck

[Gary Lewis]

Hmm. I will have to search for the emission laws in Kentucky as there are no vehicle inspections. My exhaust manifold is toast as well, so that is also why it seemed easier to just delete and go back with headers. I will do more research.

Thanks.

William

William - I agree w/Jim/ArdWrknTrk in that you aren't being difficult. You are researching the situation properly before making a decision. And, whatever your decision we are here to help you.

[Steve83]

...emission laws in Kentucky as there are no vehicle inspections.

Federal law applies everywhere, and it's just illegal to remove or disable emissions controls. The fact that there are no local inspections means you can get away with it for a while, but the way laws are changing right now, I don't think it'll be "forever" or even as long as you own this truck. So rather than set yourself up for some BIG expenses in the future (when these parts are even-harder to find), I think it's cheaper, easier, & better to just keep them working.

But it's your truck.