Gary Lewis Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 Essentially, what you show is what Lucas did for their "Constant Energy" ignition, the only difference was they kept the original coil from the Opus system as it was apparently compatible. Their pickup looked like Chrysler electronic ignition pickup and used a similar close gap. I am quite confident that a Ford DS-II pickup would trigger it nicely, and if you retain the three lead plug, black is ground. This is why a DS-II system works even mounted on a plastic inner fender. Ray - That's a really good read. Thanks! (Is that Daniel Stearns in the pic at the bottom?) Here's what he said about fusing: You'll want a 15A fuse, and you'll want to carry spares. Not far off of my 20A suggestion. And I agree about the spares. And, the waveforms are very telling. The spike to over 20 is impressive, and the sustained spark is awesome! And, I'm sure you two are right that you could do this with a DS-II's PIP to trigger it. And you could put the HEI module in a DS-II case and no one would be the wiser. Bill - The EEC-V system uses an E-coil. How hot is that system? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 Ray - That's a really good read. Thanks! (Is that Daniel Stearns in the pic at the bottom?) Here's what he said about fusing: You'll want a 15A fuse, and you'll want to carry spares. Not far off of my 20A suggestion. And I agree about the spares. And, the waveforms are very telling. The spike to over 20 is impressive, and the sustained spark is awesome! And, I'm sure you two are right that you could do this with a DS-II's PIP to trigger it. And you could put the HEI module in a DS-II case and no one would be the wiser. Bill - The EEC-V system uses an E-coil. How hot is that system? I'll have to put the MAC scope someone gave me on it, I know the plugs gap at .042-.046". Check this video out: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 I'll have to put the MAC scope someone gave me on it, I know the plugs gap at .042-.046". Check this video out: Does that MAC scope even work after its overland journey? Can you take a pic of the waveform if you get it to work? Wow! 1" of spark! And it was HOT! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 Does that MAC scope even work after its overland journey? Can you take a pic of the waveform if you get it to work? Wow! 1" of spark! And it was HOT! I actually used it on a 1989 French G30 trying to figure out why it would shut off. It was owner induced, he had swapped the engine box and the safety shutdown system the state of VA had on it when it was theirs shorted against the insulation foil backing. It worked just fine, how about the DS-II tester? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 I actually used it on a 1989 French G30 trying to figure out why it would shut off. It was owner induced, he had swapped the engine box and the safety shutdown system the state of VA had on it when it was theirs shorted against the insulation foil backing. It worked just fine, how about the DS-II tester? It also works well. Fortunately I haven't had to use it very often, but it works when I do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hstrymkrs Posted January 14, 2019 Author Share Posted January 14, 2019 It also works well. Fortunately I haven't had to use it very often, but it works when I do. I am swamped at work right now, so I will be out of the loop for a couple more days. I hope the distibutor arrives soon, and I will call D.U.I. to ask about the setup and If they recommend a fuse size. I will be following along in the shadows when work isn't beating me up. This time of year always gets a little more intense. William Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 ...losing my ignition while out on public roads...By "rapidly", I meant "seconds after turning the key to RUN the first time". If it lasts beyond that, it should last until there's a fault in the circuit that threatens the wiring. If that happens in traffic, it's still preventing fire in the harness.If none of the rest of the harness is going to get hurt, I'm going to fuse it for the rating of the relay (30/40A)Yes, I think that could seriously hurt the rest of the harness. And it's unnecessary. You don't size a fuse for the strongest component in the circuit; you size it to be the weakest link in the chain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 ...losing my ignition while out on public roads...By "rapidly", I meant "seconds after turning the key to RUN the first time". If it lasts beyond that, it should last until there's a fault in the circuit that threatens the wiring. If that happens in traffic, it's still preventing fire in the harness.If none of the rest of the harness is going to get hurt, I'm going to fuse it for the rating of the relay (30/40A)Yes, I think that could seriously hurt the rest of the harness. And it's unnecessary. You don't size a fuse for the strongest component in the circuit; you size it to be the weakest link in the chain. I'm thinking the weakest link in the chain is going to be the unified ignition. DUI probably has a suggested fuse, at least they say to run a 12Ga wire. Maybe they say what their ignition draws. (not going to look it up on my phone) Either way the fuse should probably be a slow blow type rated a bit above what the ignition uses. Engine heat and small amounts of oxidation can cause resistance to go up in that new circuit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 I'm thinking the weakest link in the chain is going to be the unified ignition. DUI probably has a suggested fuse, at least they say to run a 12Ga wire. Maybe they say what their ignition draws. (not going to look it up on my phone) Either way the fuse should probably be a slow blow type rated a bit above what the ignition uses. Engine heat and small amounts of oxidation can cause resistance to go up in that new circuit. I just published a new page: Literature/1985 Literature/1985 Body Builders. Go to the Appendix tab and then scroll to Page 21 to see Ford's guidance on wire current capacity. And they say #12 is good for 30 amps. That's more than I would have thought, but I don't build millions of vehicles either, so what do I know? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Wyatt Posted January 16, 2019 Share Posted January 16, 2019 I just published a new page: Literature/1985 Literature/1985 Body Builders. Go to the Appendix tab and then scroll to Page 21 to see Ford's guidance on wire current capacity. And they say #12 is good for 30 amps. That's more than I would have thought, but I don't build millions of vehicles either, so what do I know? Yeah and the charge wire on my 60 amp alternator MIGHT be 12 gauge. That explains why I've seen such an improvement every time I've increased it to an 8 gauge wire with a fuse inline. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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