Gary Lewis Posted January 11, 2019 Share Posted January 11, 2019 William - Could you do me, and I think you, a favor? Please confirm that you have C232, as shown below. This would be, as Bill and Steve pointed out, the easiest place for you to get power as it is on the driver's side of the truck so you don't have to run a wire all the way across. Here's the illustration from the EVTM showing the area just to the right of the brake master cylinder, with C232 circled. It will be a big yellow wire with a grayish green connector that probably isn't connected to anything. And here's Big Blue's C232. You can see that it is connected to the aux battery solenoid, exactly like the illustration above shows. But since you probably don't have an aux battery or the trailer wiring then that wire isn't used. Ok guys, tell me if this drawing is better: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted January 11, 2019 Share Posted January 11, 2019 Jim - I agree that it is derated quite a bit in all the tables, but Ford's rating for #14 boggled my mind. The rating for #14 of 15 amps has always been my reference point, but to see it at 25 was strange. No wonder the headlights dim. I'll bet they've got #18 rated at 10+ amps. Next week some time I'm to get that book back scanned and I'll be creating a page for it in Specifications. Then we shall know. Bill - I believe you are right that Circuit 37 is there, and that it has a female 1/4" terminal. So that would be a good place to get the power for this. Notice that the fuselink is #14, assuming the truck has an ammeter, so it is effectively fused at something more than 25 amps. Do we think it still needs its own fuse coming off the end of #37? I would put a fuse rated a little lower than the fusible link, that way a short would blow the fuse and if it was a rubbed through wire or similar could be quickly repaired. A fried fusible link is a bigger problem to fix as opposed to simply trying a new fuse. If the DUI system has failed, it will blow it again as soon as the key is turned on. On the circuit, I am still of the opinion (yes I know what part of my anatomy is like opinions) that using the TFI system coil feed for the relay coil feed should ensure no starting or running issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 11, 2019 Share Posted January 11, 2019 I would put a fuse rated a little lower than the fusible link, that way a short would blow the fuse and if it was a rubbed through wire or similar could be quickly repaired. A fried fusible link is a bigger problem to fix as opposed to simply trying a new fuse. If the DUI system has failed, it will blow it again as soon as the key is turned on. On the circuit, I am still of the opinion (yes I know what part of my anatomy is like opinions) that using the TFI system coil feed for the relay coil feed should ensure no starting or running issues. I can go with a fuse. But, I'm not sure I follow on the other, so let me ask. You are suggesting "using the TFI system coil feed for the relay coil feed". But, by "relay coil feed" are you saying the power to the relay, meaning #30, or the trigger to the relay, meaning #85? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 11, 2019 Share Posted January 11, 2019 I can go with a fuse. But, I'm not sure I follow on the other, so let me ask. You are suggesting "using the TFI system coil feed for the relay coil feed". But, by "relay coil feed" are you saying the power to the relay, meaning #30, or the trigger to the relay, meaning #85? How's this? And, are my lines too thick? I'll try one size smaller...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 11, 2019 Share Posted January 11, 2019 I can go with a fuse. But, I'm not sure I follow on the other, so let me ask. You are suggesting "using the TFI system coil feed for the relay coil feed". But, by "relay coil feed" are you saying the power to the relay, meaning #30, or the trigger to the relay, meaning #85? I would think the "relay coil" would be the pull in electromagnet... #85. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 11, 2019 Share Posted January 11, 2019 I would think the "relay coil" would be the pull in electromagnet... #85. And I expect that is the answer. But, didn't want to make any assumptions. So, if that's the case, is Bill advocating using the brown/pink wire or the white/light blue wire, or both? And, is he suggesting picking it up where the two were connected to the coil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 11, 2019 Share Posted January 11, 2019 And I expect that is the answer. But, didn't want to make any assumptions. So, if that's the case, is Bill advocating using the brown/pink wire or the white/light blue wire, or both? And, is he suggesting picking it up where the two were connected to the coil? Is this drawing "cleaner"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 11, 2019 Share Posted January 11, 2019 Is this drawing "cleaner"? I've added a tab to the Ignition page (Electrical/Ignition) called Ignition Simplification. Please take a look and let me know what needs changed, edited, deleted, etc. I tried to outline the advantages and disadvantages to the one-wire vs DS-II ignition. But, I did not include the "I want my Ford to be all Ford" discussion. That's because I'm trying to stay objective in this. However, I don't know that I did a good job of that, so need your input. Please! And, there probably needs to be something added about weather protection. Perhaps Bill's pic of the relay cover? Or is that something better? We don't have to solve all of the issues, but it would be nice to have a pretty decent how-to. Thoughts? Comments? Criticism? Upgrades? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted January 11, 2019 Share Posted January 11, 2019 I've added a tab to the Ignition page (Electrical/Ignition) called Ignition Simplification. Please take a look and let me know what needs changed, edited, deleted, etc. I tried to outline the advantages and disadvantages to the one-wire vs DS-II ignition. But, I did not include the "I want my Ford to be all Ford" discussion. That's because I'm trying to stay objective in this. However, I don't know that I did a good job of that, so need your input. Please! And, there probably needs to be something added about weather protection. Perhaps Bill's pic of the relay cover? Or is that something better? We don't have to solve all of the issues, but it would be nice to have a pretty decent how-to. Thoughts? Comments? Criticism? Upgrades? Looks pretty good sir! I am glad you did add the note regarding quality, there are so many of these systems sold on eBay that are, as I put it Chineseum, meaning very inferior quality and metal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hstrymkrs Posted January 12, 2019 Author Share Posted January 12, 2019 Looks pretty good sir! I am glad you did add the note regarding quality, there are so many of these systems sold on eBay that are, as I put it Chineseum, meaning very inferior quality and metal. The schematic above looks good and makes perfect sense for future people like myself. I will go and check out write up momentarily. I do not have C232 on my Bronco. While I haven't put hands on the actual wires, I know by looking at that schematic that I can follow it and wire up the distributor. Great job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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