FuzzFace2 Posted February 11, 2019 Share Posted February 11, 2019 I have a couple of these bumper bolts I need to deal with myself... I believe the Flareside rear bumper uses the same SS capped bolts as the front bumper. I got two of the four out, but the other two are just spinning in the holes. I'm planning on cutting them off from the inside. Yes they are caped at least mine were. I had a heck of a time by hand to undo them (did not work). I used my MAP torch to heat the nuts to get them off. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 11, 2019 Share Posted February 11, 2019 the brace has not been discussed here yet, but i did stumble upon it elsewhere on this site. definitely worth looking into some more. i havent disassembled my 86 dash yet, just the 84, but i will definitely be able to break that down and get the steering column out much more quickly than i did with the 84. nothing like the first time doing something. i made a lot of progress this week, but grew frustrated that i couldnt get the trans out today. welp, win some lose some. we are never quite as acrobatic as when we need to reach that evasive screw, or reach into a tight space for a bolt head:nabble_smiley_happy: You probably found this page and tab, but just in case: Driveline/Clutches and Linkage and the Clutch Linkage tab. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackdog Posted February 12, 2019 Author Share Posted February 12, 2019 I have a couple of these bumper bolts I need to deal with myself... I believe the Flareside rear bumper uses the same SS capped bolts as the front bumper. I got two of the four out, but the other two are just spinning in the holes. I'm planning on cutting them off from the inside. Yes they are caped at least mine were. I had a heck of a time by hand to undo them (did not work). I used my MAP torch to heat the nuts to get them off. Dave ---- i may have to do that to the trans crossmember bolts...they are far from cooperative. or...maybe i will just remove the cab and get at them from the top. luckily the floor was rusted through (how many times has anybody said that), and i was able to get the ones on the driver side through the floor. i am all too ready to be done with this donor truck...just a couple more weeks and i should be done and on to the actual build instead of dismantling:nabble_smiley_tongue: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 12, 2019 Share Posted February 12, 2019 i may have to do that to the trans crossmember bolts...they are far from cooperative. or...maybe i will just remove the cab and get at them from the top. luckily the floor was rusted through (how many times has anybody said that), and i was able to get the ones on the driver side through the floor. i am all too ready to be done with this donor truck...just a couple more weeks and i should be done and on to the actual build instead of dismantling:nabble_smiley_tongue: When I did Huck, the half-truck, I was knee-deep in parts with no where to put them. It was a huge mess. I feel for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackdog Posted March 9, 2019 Author Share Posted March 9, 2019 i may have to do that to the trans crossmember bolts...they are far from cooperative. or...maybe i will just remove the cab and get at them from the top. luckily the floor was rusted through (how many times has anybody said that), and i was able to get the ones on the driver side through the floor. i am all too ready to be done with this donor truck...just a couple more weeks and i should be done and on to the actual build instead of dismantling:nabble_smiley_tongue: almost done with the parts truck! just gotta pull the wiring the rest of the way outta there and have windshield swapped and it'll be onto my DARLA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 almost done with the parts truck! just gotta pull the wiring the rest of the way outta there and have windshield swapped and it'll be onto my DARLA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PetesPonies Posted March 10, 2019 Share Posted March 10, 2019 I have a couple of these bumper bolts I need to deal with myself... I believe the Flareside rear bumper uses the same SS capped bolts as the front bumper. I got two of the four out, but the other two are just spinning in the holes. I'm planning on cutting them off from the inside. Yes they are caped at least mine were. I had a heck of a time by hand to undo them (did not work). I used my MAP torch to heat the nuts to get them off. Dave ---- As far as dealing with bumper bolts. I have never drilled one out. Not the way to do it. Cut it off or grind it away, absolutely. When you get one that just isn't coming off, is now spinning in the square hole, you have no other choice but to either cut it off or grind the head. By cutting, I wean with a cut off wheel. If there is enough slack to get the wheel behide the head, or go in from the back and cut the nut. Last option is just cutting/grinding the head off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackdog Posted March 21, 2019 Author Share Posted March 21, 2019 almost done with the parts truck! just gotta pull the wiring the rest of the way outta there and have windshield swapped and it'll be onto my DARLA alrighty, i am finally back to my actual project. didnt get the windshield from the parts truck because it had a chip in it and the cost of replacing vs swapping was a $50 difference, so i'll eat the fifty for a windshield with a warranty. i've removed starter, alt, unbolted power steering pump, removed cooling hoses and radiator, unbolted exhaust, and now am ready to diagram and photograph wiring and vacuum lines in preparation for engine removal. i do not wish to remove trans with engine, as i am looking to swap the tremec 4sp od (i actually have to take this apart and inspect all gears and such to ensure that this is possible, as far as i know the only gear readily available to replace is the reverse idler). when i remove the AOD trans via unbolting and sliding-back, drop-down, and slide-out-under, will torque converter stay attached to trans or will it stay with engine? either or, my haynes manual was vague on this and i would appreciate any feedback. p.s. thanks to Cory's posts of the race trucks, i finally have a clear idea as to how i will paint DARLA, as she is supposed to be my daily/shop truck for my hand painted sign/truck lettering company. that page on facebook is a goldmine, and i absolutely must know who painted all those trucks before vinyl took over/destroyed the scene. i am really not looking forward to repairing the engine harness. as of now, though, i am still on schedule to have our truck ready to roll by the end of summer. cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 21, 2019 Share Posted March 21, 2019 alrighty, i am finally back to my actual project. didnt get the windshield from the parts truck because it had a chip in it and the cost of replacing vs swapping was a $50 difference, so i'll eat the fifty for a windshield with a warranty. i've removed starter, alt, unbolted power steering pump, removed cooling hoses and radiator, unbolted exhaust, and now am ready to diagram and photograph wiring and vacuum lines in preparation for engine removal. i do not wish to remove trans with engine, as i am looking to swap the tremec 4sp od (i actually have to take this apart and inspect all gears and such to ensure that this is possible, as far as i know the only gear readily available to replace is the reverse idler). when i remove the AOD trans via unbolting and sliding-back, drop-down, and slide-out-under, will torque converter stay attached to trans or will it stay with engine? either or, my haynes manual was vague on this and i would appreciate any feedback. p.s. thanks to Cory's posts of the race trucks, i finally have a clear idea as to how i will paint DARLA, as she is supposed to be my daily/shop truck for my hand painted sign/truck lettering company. that page on facebook is a goldmine, and i absolutely must know who painted all those trucks before vinyl took over/destroyed the scene. i am really not looking forward to repairing the engine harness. as of now, though, i am still on schedule to have our truck ready to roll by the end of summer. cheers It is good to get back to a project. On the windshield, make sure the one you get does not have the mask for the VIN in the wrong place. The vast majority of them cover a Bullnose VIN as Ford moved the VIN soon thereafter, and most outfits only stock the later windshields. And if you let them install one of those windshields you can really have problems when you get ready to sell the truck. Don't ask. As for the transmission, I haven't pulled an AOD. But I know on a C6 you can pull the tranny and leave the torque converter. So I'd bet the one on the AOD will as well, but perhaps someone that's done it will chime in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted March 23, 2019 Share Posted March 23, 2019 It is good to get back to a project. On the windshield, make sure the one you get does not have the mask for the VIN in the wrong place. The vast majority of them cover a Bullnose VIN as Ford moved the VIN soon thereafter, and most outfits only stock the later windshields. And if you let them install one of those windshields you can really have problems when you get ready to sell the truck. Don't ask. As for the transmission, I haven't pulled an AOD. But I know on a C6 you can pull the tranny and leave the torque converter. So I'd bet the one on the AOD will as well, but perhaps someone that's done it will chime in. On auto tranys I always pull the converter with the trany. It should stay in place as long as you don't tilt the trany to the front and have it "slip out". Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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