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blackdog

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Any threads on removing radiator core support? Looks like it's just some bolts to get it off, straightforward enough.

I'm thinking that Steve83 posted something about that recently, but didn't find it on my search. Perhaps it was on body mounts instead, but I really thought there was something. Hopefully he will chime in.

But from my experience you need to soak the fasteners with penetrating oil for several days before trying to take things apart. The way they were designed they capture water and rust, so expect to find rusted parts and maybe a rusted mount.

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Any threads on removing radiator core support? Looks like it's just some bolts to get it off, straightforward enough.

Good afternoon blackdog,

Gary is right, Steve83 has some really good reference material. He has helped me plenty so far! I thought I’d chime in as well for what it’s worth. The radiator core support is not that difficult. My thread shows a lot of pictures of different states of mine being off & on, but I don’t think I ever took time to describe it. There are two primary bolts that go through bushings at the very front of your frame that holds a core support to the frame. Outside of that there are two fender bolts halfway up the front of the fender and then there are two bolts at the very top of the fender and that’s pretty much it. Of course it’ll take a minute to strip all the wiring out-of-the-way from it and if needed, pull all your grill and trim pieces. If you want to see if you pictures let me know, I’m sure I have some I could load up. I’m not sure how far you want to go but I can tell you looking back on my project, I wish I would’ve left my fenders and front end all together and just pulled the whole front clip as a whole. It might take a little bit more muscle but it’s certainly worth it so you don’t have to line every individual piece back up when you’re reassembling i’m not sure how far you want to go but I can tell you looking back on my project, I wish I would’ve left my fenders and front end altogether and just pulled the whole front clip as a whole. It might take a little bit more muscle but it’s certainly worth it so you don’t have to line every individual piece back up when you’re reassembling.Good luck!

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Good afternoon blackdog, Gary is right, Steve83 has some really good reference material. He has helped me plenty so far! I thought I’d chime in as well for what it’s worth. The radiator core support is not that difficult. My thread shows a lot of pictures of different states of mine being off & on, but I don’t think I ever took time to describe it. There are two primary bolts that go through bushings at the very front of your frame that holds a core support to the frame. Outside of that there are two fender bolts halfway up the front of the fender and then there are two bolts at the very top of the fender and that’s pretty much it. Of course it’ll take a minute to strip all the wiring out-of-the-way from it and if needed, pull all your grill and trim pieces. If you want to see if you pictures let me know, I’m sure I have some I could load up. I’m not sure how far you want to go but I can tell you looking back on my project, I wish I would’ve left my fenders and front end all together and just pulled the whole front clip as a whole. It might take a little bit more muscle but it’s certainly worth it so you don’t have to line every individual piece back up when you’re reassembling i’m not sure how far you want to go but I can tell you looking back on my project, I wish I would’ve left my fenders and front end altogether and just pulled the whole front clip as a whole. It might take a little bit more muscle but it’s certainly worth it so you don’t have to line every individual piece back up when you’re reassembling.Good luck!
Wow Ferdinand, that is a great idea taking the whole front off like that.. I already had removed grille and bezels, and radiator and fan/shroud. I do however want to strip paint from all body panels and repaint later. If I take the front pieces off as a unit, and then later separate them for paint, would it be easier to reconnect them before I put them back on frame or should I just leave them separate at that point? 

 

On Jan 27, 2019 1:42 PM, "Ferdinand [via Bullnose Enthusiasts]" <redacted_email_address> wrote:

 

 

 

 

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Wow Ferdinand, that is a great idea taking the whole front off like that..

I already had removed grille and bezels, and radiator and fan/shroud. I do

however want to strip paint from all body panels and repaint later. If I

take the front pieces off as a unit, and then later separate them for

paint, would it be easier to reconnect them before I put them back on frame

or should I just leave them separate at that point?

I think it depends on how you want to pull it all apart and put it back together.

I had 2 trucks, parts & project.

The project I pulled each fender with the inner liner then the radiator support, I was not looking to reuse them at that point.

The parts truck I pulled the full nose, fender w/liners bolted to the radiator support. I was looking to use this set up and figured with the fenders still bolted to the support would make it easier to line up when installing it back on the project truck.

Here you can see the full nose as pulled from the parts truck and the project truck fenders sitting to the left, the support is behind the far fender / nose.

20160122_145259.jpg.0df7c5805e6378c8ef650be0091c8d51.jpg

Now after I got the nose back on the project truck and lined up I pulled each fender to weld up molding holes, do body work where the holes where and to paint the insides the project trucks color.

20161224_172718.jpg.c33e500372a70daf377b5a69275488ab.jpg

20170827_153907.jpg.cf6cc4f71cbd6b14c50b9f30e7d2d064.jpg

20170827_153925.jpg.dec90236066daab1a4d5a4019b7627e6.jpg

Doing it this way I was thinking when I install after painting it would take less fussing to line up.

I still need to install the hood so I am sure I will need to do a little more lining up.

Dave ----

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Wow Ferdinand, that is a great idea taking the whole front off like that..I already had removed grille and bezels, and radiator and fan/shroud. I dohowever want to strip paint from all body panels and repaint later. If Itake the front pieces off as a unit, and then later separate them forpaint, would it be easier to reconnect them before I put them back on frameor should I just leave them separate at that point?
I think it depends on how you want to pull it all apart and put it back together.I had 2 trucks, parts & project. The project I pulled each fender with the inner liner then the radiator support, I was not looking to reuse them at that point.The parts truck I pulled the full nose, fender w/liners bolted to the radiator support. I was looking to use this set up and figured with the fenders still bolted to the support would make it easier to line up when installing it back on the project truck.Here you can see the full nose as pulled from the parts truck and the project truck fenders sitting to the left, the support is behind the far fender / nose.Now after I got the nose back on the project truck and lined up I pulled each fender to weld up molding holes, do body work where the holes where and to paint the insides the project trucks color.Doing it this way I was thinking when I install after painting it would take less fussing to line up.I still need to install the hood so I am sure I will need to do a little more lining up.Dave ----
Thanks fuzzface!

 

On Sun, Jan 27, 2019, 5:02 PM FuzzFace2 [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address wrote:

 

 

 

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Blackdog - Welcome! Glad Steve sent you our way. :nabble_anim_handshake:I hope you will document your project with pics and frequent updates as we like to live vicariously, seeing the progress others make.But, since you posted in the "Projects" section not everyone is going to see it. (This forum is a bit odd in that you have to "subscribe" to threads, folders, or the whole forum in order to get email notification of a new post or thread. And not everyone has subscribed to this folder.) So, you should go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then start a new topic/thread in that folder to introduce yourself. Most people watch that folder and will welcome you.Also, we have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Members Map in the menu) and I can add you to that if you'll just give me a city.As for the horn, I've not known of many people having problems with them. The circuit is pretty simple, so I'm not sure why someone would have to bypass the switch on the steering column. Apparently yours is bypassed?
Also I noticed a 4 digit number on the floor pan when I pulled the dodge seat and the carpeting out. Any ideas on what this number indicates? At first I thought it was put there by a previous owner, but i couldn't find any seams from any welding that might have taken place, so i think it might be a factory code for packages or something. Floor was almost entirely rust-free except for a smallish triangular patch were a PO had put a piece of plastic underneath the insulation beneath the carpeting, which only trapped water, apparently. I dont think I'll have to replace that section, but wont know until I try to remove what rust is there. Cant see through any spots so we shall see how it goes.

 

On Wed, Jan 2, 2019, 9:07 PM Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address wrote:

 

 

 

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No, but do you have a pic?

I wonder if that number is a ID number that manf. put on parts?

Look at door or kick panels and the number on the back that people call a "parts number" is a manf. ID number.

I never looked that close at the floors in my project truck before coating with bed liner for any numbers.

Maybe I can look over the parts truck to see if I find anything.

Dave ----

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I wonder if that number is a ID number that manf. put on parts?

Look at door or kick panels and the number on the back that people call a "parts number" is a manf. ID number.

I never looked that close at the floors in my project truck before coating with bed liner for any numbers.

Maybe I can look over the parts truck to see if I find anything.

Dave ----

Perhaps. I don't know who manufactured the cabs for Ford. I assumed they did, but don't know.

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