Gary Lewis Posted December 26, 2018 Share Posted December 26, 2018 In a twist of events, I do not believe the alternator went out. I haven't had a chance to check the alternator yet because I haven't gotten the truck up and running yet. Had the battery charger hooked up to the battery overnight, but I didn't realize it was only set for 120 min (timer). This morning, the battery was more dead than yesterday. We believe something is driving the battery (a light, a short, something...). So I 'wised' up and disconnected the battery terminals this time and am trickle charging it all day and night tonight. The battery was so dead, I could not get a voltage reading on it. If I have a fully charged battery, I should be able to get the truck on and check the voltage with it running, and then hopefully search for whatever light is left on (maybe glovebox) or end up searching for some sort of short. I don't know if I should feel relieved or frustrated haha. At least you have a good plan. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 26, 2018 Share Posted December 26, 2018 In a twist of events, I do not believe the alternator went out. I haven't had a chance to check the alternator yet because I haven't gotten the truck up and running yet. Had the battery charger hooked up to the battery overnight, but I didn't realize it was only set for 120 min (timer). This morning, the battery was more dead than yesterday. We believe something is driving the battery (a light, a short, something...). So I 'wised' up and disconnected the battery terminals this time and am trickle charging it all day and night tonight. The battery was so dead, I could not get a voltage reading on it. If I have a fully charged battery, I should be able to get the truck on and check the voltage with it running, and then hopefully search for whatever light is left on (maybe glovebox) or end up searching for some sort of short. I don't know if I should feel relieved or frustrated haha. Adam, Do you have a 1G alternator (wires and cable bolted to the back, external regulator mounted on inner fender) Or a 2G alternator (two 3 pin plastic plugs connecting it to the truck)? If the latter, CLOSELY inspect the lower plug with two black/orange and one white/black wire. This is the source of many charging problems and more than a few fires. In fact, if you do have a 2G you should probably change it as a matter of course. I got fed up with dead batteries and blown alternators and finally 'upgraded'. But like I said $10 & 10 minutes is quick and cheap compared to the alternatives. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86-350-460-dually Posted December 27, 2018 Author Share Posted December 27, 2018 Adam, Do you have a 1G alternator (wires and cable bolted to the back, external regulator mounted on inner fender) Or a 2G alternator (two 3 pin plastic plugs connecting it to the truck)? If the latter, CLOSELY inspect the lower plug with two black/orange and one white/black wire. This is the source of many charging problems and more than a few fires. In fact, if you do have a 2G you should probably change it as a matter of course. I got fed up with dead batteries and blown alternators and finally 'upgraded'. But like I said $10 & 10 minutes is quick and cheap compared to the alternatives. There has been quite a few modifications done to the truck previously, that I don't know what I have is stock or not. I believe my truck should have had the 2G stock, but I couldn't tell you if that's what I have or not. There is no external fan on the passenger fender. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 27, 2018 Share Posted December 27, 2018 There has been quite a few modifications done to the truck previously, that I don't know what I have is stock or not. I believe my truck should have had the 2G stock, but I couldn't tell you if that's what I have or not. There is no external fan on the passenger fender. Hmmmm I don't see plugs OR multiple wires on the back. Or even a proper spacer on the pivot bolt! The 1G external regulator would look like a tin box about 5" square usually with four wires. It may be some aftermarket one wire alternator and a bunch of barnyard engineering went into that. Wish I had a better answer for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86-350-460-dually Posted December 27, 2018 Author Share Posted December 27, 2018 Hmmmm I don't see plugs OR multiple wires on the back. Or even a proper spacer on the pivot bolt! The 1G external regulator would look like a tin box about 5" square usually with four wires. It may be some aftermarket one wire alternator and a bunch of barnyard engineering went into that. Wish I had a better answer for you. Uh ohh.... That's kind of concerning haha. So just to clarify, it's definitely not a 2G? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted December 27, 2018 Share Posted December 27, 2018 Uh ohh.... That's kind of concerning haha. So just to clarify, it's definitely not a 2G? It looks like it might be a Government Motors alternator, they were popular for a 1 wire setup. Ford 1G used a remote regulator, 2G AKA flaming Ford used an integral regulator and two molded plugs, 3G uses a 6mm stud and a 1 and 3 wire pair of plugs. GM built a close to the same size that could be used as a 1 wire alternator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 27, 2018 Share Posted December 27, 2018 Uh ohh.... That's kind of concerning haha. So just to clarify, it's definitely not a 2G? I'm trying to look at these pics on my phone, but it doesn't look like it has a brush pac and regulator attached to the rear like a 2G. The kinda rounded corners remind me of a 1G, but then you would have a separate regulator on the inside fender. This leaves me thinking 'aftermarket one wire Chevy style alternator' Unfortunately, these perform poorly because they have to be self exciting. ie, there is no key on source of power to wake it up. Maybe Gary or one of the guys with a decent monitor can better identify it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 27, 2018 Share Posted December 27, 2018 It looks like it might be a Government Motors alternator, they were popular for a 1 wire setup. Ford 1G used a remote regulator, 2G AKA flaming Ford used an integral regulator and two molded plugs, 3G uses a 6mm stud and a 1 and 3 wire pair of plugs. GM built a close to the same size that could be used as a 1 wire alternator. Thanks Bill! Now we need to find the dead diode that's killing the battery, and a solution to get his truck charging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted December 27, 2018 Share Posted December 27, 2018 Thanks Bill! Now we need to find the dead diode that's killing the battery, and a solution to get his truck charging. Taurus 3.8L 3G and snag as much of the wiring harness as you can, it runs from the alternator across the top of the radiator then back to the underhood fuse box near the windshield on the driver's side. The plugs for the stator and "tickler" wire run in with the output wire. He also needs to find a correct length and size bolt for the alternator, mine for the original setup is long gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 27, 2018 Share Posted December 27, 2018 Thanks Bill! Now we need to find the dead diode that's killing the battery, and a solution to get his truck charging. You'se guys are doing great! If he's running a GM 1-wire wouldn't the easiest fix be a 3G? We shouldn't assume that the shunt/ammeter has been bypassed, but hopefully it has. Adam - Have you noticed the ammeter move, either positive or negative? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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